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Maxx Trooper

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Getting my t-maxx ready for the RCNT Bash in April. When i first started, all i was going to do was clean, lube and inspect my TRX .15. well that all changed very quickly. After cleaning my T-maxx off, lubing everything. i tore the engine down.. thats when i realized i had a lot more to do. The piston was sticking out of the sleeve.. like this-
3429T-maxx_003-med.jpg

that isnt good at all. so i went and grabed my brand new Wasp .18. While taking the flywheel and clutch assembly off the old trx .15, the bearings in the clutch bell were seized... o great.. then the clutch nut adaptor broke..
3429T-maxx_001-med.jpg

3429T-maxx_002-med.jpg

so i grabbed my old, shot Megatech engine that had a flywheel and clutch assembly. got the clutch nut off, but broke the pin in the flywheel, o well didnt need that.
then onto the next problem, i am going from a rotary carb to a slide carb, and so i have to move my throttle servo, but my gas tank is in the way of where the brake linkage would go. so i ended up moving the fuel tank, throttle servo, reciever, rechargeable reciever pack, failsafe, fuel lines. i am almost done now, all i need is some Loctite, new throttle linkage, and the new aluminum leg stands for the throttle servo and i will be done and ready to go. so a short project turned into a very long, frustrating project. heres a pic of before-
3429RC_023.jpg

After-
3429T-maxx_004-med.jpg


later
 
Projects beget more projects....

I learned that when I won the OS engine last year. I thought I'd just drop it in. But nooooooo. Had to adapt to slide carb. Did the FOC conversion. Added new shock springs and aluminum caps. So a free engine ended up costing me like $100. But in the end, doesn't it just look so much sweeter? I hope it runs well for you in Florida. Hope you're going to the Buffalo bash in August.
 
well a hour long project turned into a 4 hour project.

candyman i can't go to the buffalo bash cuz they put a 18 or older limit on it, so i can't go. :( i figure i am goin to have to break the engine in down in florida cuz the weather in NY isnt very good for breaking a engine in right now. 3 more days then i leave for florida.. :D Are u going to the Florida bash?

later
 
I've had many projects like that. It seems worse when you buy aftermarket parts. They look the same, but they aren't in some cases. I spent 4 hours putting on rear aluminum bulkheads from ACNCM. Nice, heavy, bashable... holes in wrong spots. Figures.
 
Dude most all of my projects seem to turn into a can of worms for me. It's just not fair. Just want some fun bashing time and wind up more wrenching than anything. Later
 
It looks like a box of rc parts threw up on your truck.

I"m trying a smaller tank on my maxx... are you getting an unusual amount of foaming? I'm running a 21 maxx, but I'm tired of the stock tank that I keep trashing. I had an extra tank of my xxx-nt laying around and figured I'd zip tie it on just to see how it works.
 
it may look messy but it works. lol.

the fuel tank I'm running is a OFNA 1/8th scale buggy tank.. 125cc same size as the stock t-maxx tank just a lower center of gravity. with my current set up i have 3 yes 3 zip-ties holding my tank to the chassis. lol. but my t-maxx doesn't have door stoppers or w/e acting as bumpers.. lol.

later
 
Yeah Yeah... but mine isn't broken either.

As a matter of fact, I hit a big ass tree today at WOT. I tripped and dropped my remote and of course, the batteries fell out. The maxx took off like a bat out of hell, hit a tree, tried to climb the tree and landed on it's roof screaming like a red headed stepchild. I ran up and plugged the exhaust. It was on it's back for no more than a second, but it made me cringe none the less.

I thought better of just firing it up and continueing the day so I could take it home and give it a detailed inspection. Not a single thing was broke or bent. You say what you will about my bumpers, but they work.

I replaced the door stoppers with RC-Solutions spring steel skids and black rubber grommets behind them for extra support.

This looks a little better as well:
T-Maxx-BodyOff-RCSolutionsSkidRearTop02.jpg

T-Maxx-BodyOff-RCSolutionsSkidFrontTop01.jpg


Besides, I'm just not used to seeing a chassis that is so full. Since I have a 21 conversion, I have a little more real estate to go around. Also, I don't have reverse, so it looks less cluttered.
 
a failsafe would of saved u there. i got a Venom failsafe and has saved me a few times, so it was well worth it. i dont have reverse in my t-maxx, i have a FOC. .21 chassis does have more room. in my t-maxx i got everything crammed on there, the roll cage limits the space a little bit.

"it may not look pretty, but it gets the job done."

later
 
Yeah, I know. Another gadget. I have an annoying servo glitching problem that I can't iron out and I'm affraid a FS would kill it completely.

Oh well. Thank god for small favors i guess.

I use zip ties too:
T-Maxx-BodyOff-xxx-ntFuelTank01.jpg
 
is that the OFNA throttle linkage? i can't believe that for u, that u think 2 zip-ties are gona keep that fuel tank in there.. lol.

later
 
Yep on the throttle linkage. I have a glitch that I'm trying to get rid of and removing as much metal that is connected to the servos as possible.

As for the 2 zipties, I have a plastic plate that I mounted under the tank that is glued to the chasses, a layer of foam that is glued to the plate and the tank is glued to the foam. The zip ties are just extra.

I hit a tree today at WOT (batteries fell out of my remote when I dropped it) and the tank didn't budge. Plus, if you notice, I crossed them so that the screw mounting hole is inbetween them, so even if the glue lets go, it shouldn't move much.
 
i see ur running only 4 shocks on the outside corners. What set up do u have(name of shock.. shock oil wt.. spring.... blah..). I bet u got the idea from the RC car action magazine. How do u like it, does it work good, does it bottom out?

later

*EDIT* Do u think the piece of metal that ur throttle servo is connected to is causing the glitching? the metal on metal contact.
 
I believe I got the idea from El Pirata. I just asked what were good shocks and he pointed me towards 1/8 scale buggy shocks. I think these are from an OFNA 9.5 buggy rear shocks. I'm running 55 wheight oil with the navy blue springs on the front and black on the rear. They are the shocks made for the UE supermaxx and you can find them on their site.

You can see a detailed description of the shocks here:
http://www.unlimitedengineering.com/shocks.shtml

But I bought them from here:
http://www.hobbyshopnj.com/monmaxx.html

They seem to be pretty good. I have yet taken it to a skate park to see how it really performs though. But in general off roading, they really shine. And they are more durable than the stock shocks by far.

As for the glitching... ya know, I hadn't even thought of that! I just put that plate in so I wouldn't have to remove the chassis braces underneath to replace a spur gear since that servo mount is in the way. I think I'll go put a piece of rubber in there right now.

I've been messing with this damn glitch for about 3 months... as luck would have it, that's about when I installed the plate!

Thanks.
 
they look good, but 4 shocks for $90.. ouch. o wait nvm on the site that u bought them from is only $70, not bad. let us know how they work. i might have to sell one of my micros to buy these shocks.

hopefully the rubber will fix the glitching for ya. the only thing though, i was gona do the same set-up on my t-maxx. maby i will just use some double sided tabe and a few more zip-ties.

later
 
ON a glitching note. check this olds. I did a bit of work, went to take my maxx out and the throttle was glitching. Only the throttle i couldnt figure it out for the life of me.
Well, it turns out I put a nut on th end of the pip hanger bolt (goes through the chassis). I took off the pipe havnger andit was gone. No metal rubbing, just metal to metal caused that.

Take a look at your pipe hanger it might work, if you havent already. Take the pipe hanger off all together, and see if it still wants to glitch.
 
Nope, just did the rubber. I bought a bicycle intertube to have rubber laying around for just such things.

They are good shocks, nice and smooth. I like how they are built as opposed to the stock maxx shocks. Higher quality material (aluminum), threaded, bigger shock shaft and no internal c-clip holding the piston on. They use a mini locknut.

If you run 4, I'd suggest at least getting an aluminum shock tower in the rear. On the not so perfect landing, it bends the shock tower so much that it crushes the fuel tank. I went through 3 of them before I realized what was going on. But, since I went with the smaller tank, it probably wouldn't matter now anyway. I used integy's shock tower.

I think when I bought my set of 4, they were closer to $50, but I can't remember. It's been a few months.

I don't have the stock pipe hanger. I have the one that came in the XTM 21 conversion kit. I just locked down the bolts/nuts on it since I had to take it out to work on something else. Although, I do go over my truck before every run and tighten all bolts.
 
u think i would really need a aluminum rear shock tower? i have RPM ones right now. didnt u also have a problem with the shock tower putting a whole in ur exhaust?
later
 
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