Wltoys 144001 feelings?

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From all sorts of companies. Oh I guess I have 21 cars.
Arrma Outcast 6s BLX
Arrma Kraton 6s EXB - https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/slicks-kraton-6s-exb.46234/
Arrma Typhon 3s BLX
Arrma Senton 3s BLX
Team Associated RC10B2 Team Kit - https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?t=42673
Axial SCX10-II 2000 Jeep Cherokee XJ - https://www.rctalk.com/forum/threads/slicks-axial-scx10-ii.121107/
Axial SCX24
Lc Racing EMB-1 -https://www.rctalk.com/forum/threads/tacon-valor-lc-racing-emb-tgh.122610/page-6
Lc Racing EMB-TGH
Wltoys 144001
Wltoys 12428
Traxxas Stampede 4x4 VXL - https://www.rctalk.com/forum/threads/stampede-4x4-vxl.123205/
Traxxas Stampede 2wd - https://www.rctalk.com/forum/threads/rebuilding-the-2pede.130112/
Traxxas Summit 1/10
Fs Racing Marauder
Hosim 9125
Vaterra Kalahari - https://www.rctalk.com/forum/threads/vaterra-kalahari.127549/
Tekno ET48.3 - https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/slicks-tekno-nt48-3-to-et48-3.31042/
Ecx Ruckus 2wd - https://www.ecxforum.com/threads/sllick2500s-ecx-ruckus-2wd.3197/
Ecx Ruckus 1/18 4wd - https://www.ecxforum.com/threads/slick2500s-ecx-ruckus-1-18-4wd.3206/
Hot Bodies D8Te - https://www.rctalk.com/forum/thread...ric-conversion-now-with-vorza-chassis.125839/

I only bent them the one time, like I said I had an early version of the 144001 a lot of people were bending them rather easily, but iirc they updated the shock towers at some point.

The Lc cvds are a little bit better than the Wl Toys but not by much, they are super thin like 2mm.
It's a little hard to see but there is a little oring in there.
View attachment 143469

Could have been first run issues that weren't caught until after they had already shipped them out.

Right now on my to do list are replacing the cheap Chinese 35a esc with a Hobbywing 16BL30, replace the stock motor mount and figure out a way to replace the stock gearing, trying to find a 0.7mod pinion with a 1/8th" inch bore is like trying to find hens teeth.
Yeah, you must have one of those earlier 144001s. Ya know what, I actually have an "earlier" 144001 too, I got mine in January of 2020. You have a lot of cars! Is this one of your LC-R cars? I see that little O-ring, what does it do? Does it take out some of the travel in the dog bone and drive cups, do you have O-rings in both drive cups, or only the diff cup? I'd also expect those O-rings to wear faster than the dog bones, as there's a bit of friction there, but if you lube the dog bones and cups like a lot of people do, you'll have less wear.

Also are those different tie-rods, or at least different tie-rod ends? I thought the LC-R CVDs were thicker, I'm pretty sure the Wltoys ones are thicker than 2mm.

That HW ESC is good for these cars! Yup, we have very limited options with 0.7 mod 1/8th" pinions, you can use the stock, massive 27t pinion with a 3650/60 size motor for speed runs ONLY, you can use the 17t stock pinion (for the Wltoys A-959) with a 24__ size motor (or a bigger 28__ motor if you bore out the pinion hole) if you slot the motor mount for bashing, or the rare 15t pinion (for the A-959) and a 24__ motor, and that 15t will bolt right onto a 24__ motor and then the motor will bolt right onto the inner motor mounts, and the gear mesh is pretty much perfect!

Yeah, I know, strange that the normal, brushed motor mounts have inner mounting holes, and when used with a 24__ motor and a 15t pinion, everything works perfectly! I can speak from personal experience, I have a 2440 4600kV motor, the 15t pinion (you can get it on Ali-Express of Ebay like me), and the inner mounting holes (you'll also need some counter-sunk screws, unless you're up to the task of removing the pinion and screws from the stock brushed motor and mount)!

Full discolsure, I didn't find this combo out, others did, like QuadIfyRC.com, I followed one of his numerous Wltoys brushless conversions, specifically the "Budget Brushless Conversion Guide"(he also has a heavier-of-road version using a 2445 motor for a little extra torque at the cost of a few MPHs)

Edit: Eyeballing it with my ruler, the Wltoys CVD shafts are about 2.5-3mm thick. Looks like the car in the pic needs a clean 🤣🤣
 
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Yeah, you must have one of those earlier 144001s. Ya know what, I actually have an "earlier" 144001 too, I got mine in January of 2020. You have a lot of cars! Is this one of your LC-R cars? I see that little O-ring, what does it do? Does it take out some of the travel in the dog bone and drive cups, do you have O-rings in both drive cups, or only the diff cup? I'd also expect those O-rings to wear faster than the dog bones, as there's a bit of friction there, but if you lube the dog bones and cups like a lot of people do, you'll have less wear.

Also are those different tie-rods, or at least different tie-rod ends? I thought the LC-R CVDs were thicker, I'm pretty sure the Wltoys ones are thicker than 2mm.

That HW ESC is good for these cars! Yup, we have very limited options with 0.7 mod 1/8th" pinions, you can use the stock, massive 27t pinion with a 3650/60 size motor for speed runs ONLY, you can use the 17t stock pinion (for the Wltoys A-959) with a 24__ size motor (or a bigger 28__ motor if you bore out the pinion hole) if you slot the motor mount for bashing, or the rare 15t pinion (for the A-959) and a 24__ motor, and that 15t will bolt right onto a 24__ motor and then the motor will bolt right onto the inner motor mounts, and the gear mesh is pretty much perfect!

Yeah, I know, strange that the normal, brushed motor mounts have inner mounting holes, and when used with a 24__ motor and a 15t pinion, everything works perfectly! I can speak from personal experience, I have a 2440 4600kV motor, the 15t pinion (you can get it on Ali-Express of Ebay like me), and the inner mounting holes (you'll also need some counter-sunk screws, unless you're up to the task of removing the pinion and screws from the stock brushed motor and mount)!

Full discolsure, I didn't find this combo out, others did, like QuadIfyRC.com, I followed one of his numerous Wltoys brushless conversions, specifically the "Budget Brushless Conversion Guide"(he also has a heavier-of-road version using a 2445 motor for a little extra torque at the cost of a few MPHs)

Edit: Eyeballing it with my ruler, the Wltoys CVD shafts are about 2.5-3mm thick. Looks like the car in the pic needs a clean 🤣🤣
Funnily enough, I have almost everything on that list and a brushed monster truck beside my desk....

The issues are;

The holes on the motor mount need drilling out a tiny bit to fit motor screws (but line up)
The motor is from a v1 124017 & has cooling fins glued on in the way when mounted using the narrower holes (90deg from where it used to be)
the 15t pinion needs drilled out & without a drill press it will be hard to center + need to get a 3.25mm?? drill bit.

Might be easier getting a 17t pinion and mount (although hard to find the mount and pinion from the v2 online).

Let me know if anyone has found the 17t mount and 17t pinion for sale anywhere.

PS removing the OG screws from the motor wasn't easy :) blow torch etc.
 
Yeah, you must have one of those earlier 144001s. Ya know what, I actually have an "earlier" 144001 too, I got mine in January of 2020. You have a lot of cars! Is this one of your LC-R cars? I see that little O-ring, what does it do? Does it take out some of the travel in the dog bone and drive cups, do you have O-rings in both drive cups, or only the diff cup? I'd also expect those O-rings to wear faster than the dog bones, as there's a bit of friction there, but if you lube the dog bones and cups like a lot of people do, you'll have less wear.

Also are those different tie-rods, or at least different tie-rod ends? I thought the LC-R CVDs were thicker, I'm pretty sure the Wltoys ones are thicker than 2mm.

That HW ESC is good for these cars! Yup, we have very limited options with 0.7 mod 1/8th" pinions, you can use the stock, massive 27t pinion with a 3650/60 size motor for speed runs ONLY, you can use the 17t stock pinion (for the Wltoys A-959) with a 24__ size motor (or a bigger 28__ motor if you bore out the pinion hole) if you slot the motor mount for bashing, or the rare 15t pinion (for the A-959) and a 24__ motor, and that 15t will bolt right onto a 24__ motor and then the motor will bolt right onto the inner motor mounts, and the gear mesh is pretty much perfect!

Yeah, I know, strange that the normal, brushed motor mounts have inner mounting holes, and when used with a 24__ motor and a 15t pinion, everything works perfectly! I can speak from personal experience, I have a 2440 4600kV motor, the 15t pinion (you can get it on Ali-Express of Ebay like me), and the inner mounting holes (you'll also need some counter-sunk screws, unless you're up to the task of removing the pinion and screws from the stock brushed motor and mount)!

Full discolsure, I didn't find this combo out, others did, like QuadIfyRC.com, I followed one of his numerous Wltoys brushless conversions, specifically the "Budget Brushless Conversion Guide"(he also has a heavier-of-road version using a 2445 motor for a little extra torque at the cost of a few MPHs)

Edit: Eyeballing it with my ruler, the Wltoys CVD shafts are about 2.5-3mm thick. Looks like the car in the pic needs a clean 🤣🤣
The oring prevents the dog bone from falling out of the stub axle when you are turning or during suspension compression. Only on the front diff outputs not on the stub axles. They have been in there for a few years now and I haven't really looked at them so not sure if or how they are wearing.

They are RPM 4-40 ball cups on LC turnbuckles.

I used this one https://www.quadifyrc.com/rccarrevi...or-wl-toys-144001-124018-and-124019-quadifyrc and ended up with the 5400kv Racerstar motor. I see they now have a 4600kv motor.

I lied they are 2.3mm. And it is a rather tight area in there so it is hard to get at when cleaning. I need to get some small paint brushes to get in there.
20220311_131503.jpg
 
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