Wider tires on Slash 4x4

[nikko508]

My apologies! I was just trying to state that running bigger and wider tires was not a good idea. I have a 2wd slash running on stock tires. I had to adjust my driving style and change the shocks to big bores. I had to find what works for it to handle well. I'm running 50wt in the rear and 30wt in the front just to get it to turn for my driving style. I would check out what other trucks are running there. Calibers are a good choice to try. Going to take some time to get a slash to handle right. Again my apologize didn't mean to put you down in any way.

Dont apologize, your oppinion is yours, he asked you answered, own what you say and if someone doesn't like it, TO BAD. Unless you mistakenly give bad info.
You tried to help and he gave you a list of toys he allegedly owns. If he owns all that stuff and he considers him self a guru he should know.

 

[JoeMAXX]

Don't apologize, your opinion is yours, he asked you answered, own what you say and if someone doesn't like it, TO BAD. Unless you mistakenly give bad info.
You tried to help and he gave you a list of toys he allegedly owns. If he owns all that stuff and he considers him self a guru he should know.

I do not allegedly own all these toys. WOW You can be mean sometimes :whooo:
What is really up with some of you guys? I always wonder.


I attempt not to demean or bully and only asked a simple question if anyone was running a larger set of tires and what the opinion was on them. When I am told I am wrong I take it in stride then show where they were wrong. I have almost come to hate coming on this site But I do enjoy helping others so it is a two sided coin. Most will learn from what I tell them. I am not always right but never completly wrong either.

 

[nikko508]

What? You gave a list of stuff that you say you own, now you say you don't.
If you think I'm being mean now, try getting me mad, all I'm saying is, you asked a question and it was answered, you didn't like that answer and somehow you managed to get the guy to say sorry. It seams that you like to ask questions and answer them yourself.
No one likes to wast time answering questions just for someone to turn around and say i dont like your answer. Come on man, if you dont like the advice dont use it, it's very simple.

 

[JoeMAXX]

The room is somewhat of a mess

---------- Post added at 11:39 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:37 PM ----------

This is not every thing Nikko just a bunch of stuff in one room

---------- Post added at 11:46 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:39 PM ----------

Do you think I allegedly own this stuff still?

---------- Post added at 11:48 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:46 PM ----------

I thanked everyone for their input so not sure why you are bashing me. I am a nice guy with good intentions to help others until they bash me than go into defense mode and add extra information on what they should or might need to know.

 

[nikko508]

Look don't get wrong, this site encourages debating and friendly back and forth conversation, but you take it somewhat of a personal unsolicited attack, calm down. I myself don't care what you own or have, no need to try to prove your self.

 

[Greywolf74]

And this is where I'm going to refer you back to Alien13's post that refers you to Schrodemode's post, where SchrodeMode tells you that it's the tires, not the width. Look into what tires (The rubber part) work best on the surface you are running on.

 

[frickenjoey]

Look don't get wrong, this site encourages debating and friendly back and forth conversation, but you take it somewhat of a personal unsolicited attack, calm down. I myself don't care what you own or have, no need to try to prove your self.

Isn't it fun to ask questions then get upset when you get the answer. My wife does the same thing.

Here is a good tire guide from RC author Matt Higgins.

> Soft compounds offer the most traction, but wear faster
> For bashing, run the hardest compounds available as they’ll last longer
> Cold weather racing requires soft compounds
> You don’t have run the same tires front and rear; sometimes it’s helpful to run tires with less grip up front on a 2WD short course truck

Loose, Loamy Dirt. If the dirt is loose, a taller tread is needed to dig into the dirt. A tire like Pro-Line’s Caliber work well on this type of soft dirt. If the dirt is sticky, a tire with a lot of space between the lugs may be needed so that the dirt doesn’t pack into the tread but instead gets flung out. Tires with multi-layer treads like the Caliber also work well when I track first brings in new dirt that hasn’t fully compacted yet.

Hard-packed Surface with Loose Dirt on top. a tire with too tall of a tread with feel like it’s floating around, so a medium-sized tread works best. Good examples are Pro-Line’s Bow-Fighter and Blockade tires. If the dusty top layer is noticeable, try a tire like the Bow-Fighter. If the there is dust or a loose top layer in some spots or if the track conditions change but are mostly dry (just not muddy), try a tire similar to the Blockade.

Hard-packed Dirt with Some Dust on Top. If the track your running on is fairly hard packed, but doesn’t get swept clean of loose dirt and doesn’t have a noticeably “clean” groove around the whole track, you’ll need a tread with a little bit of height to get down to the surface. Pro-Line’s Sniper is similar to its Hole Shot, but designed to have that slightly taller tread.

Outdoor Hard-packed and Blue-groove Conditions. If the track surface is hard-packed, a tire with numerous small lugs will be able to work best. Pro-Line’s Hole Shot works well when there isn’t loose dirt to have to dig into. The numerous small lugs provide a lot of surface area and a lot of grip on the smoother surfaces.

Indoor Hard-packed and Clay. While tires that often work on hard-packed outdoor tracks may work indoors, usually tires with low bar shaped treads mixed with equally low but-traditionally-shaped lugs will provide a lot of contact with the track and good forward and side bite. An example would be Pro-Line’s Suburbs.

 

[JoeMAXX]

And this is where I'm going to refer you back to Alien13's post that refers you to Schrodemode's post, where SchrodeMode tells you that it's the tires, not the width. Look into what tires (The rubber part) work best on the surface you are running on.

Thanks dude, I used Alien13's advice and accually had the Bad Land tires picked out before he posted it and gave links to what I was going to purchase. I listen to your advise and quite reading from those that say I do not.


I went out and bought the right tires for the surface I am running on after listening to the suggestions that all you guys made. Now I have to wait until spring to test the new Proline Bad land tires out on this very loose track along with the shocks I installed last weekend. I purchased split lock ring rims so when my tires wear out I can reuse the rims easily and replace the tires as needed because I know I need a soft rubber compound.

Again Thank you all for your suggestions your advice assisted me in my tire purchase

not sure why certain individauls think I do not listen but hey they form opinions and then bash others is what I think.

 

[JoeMAXX]

Isn't it fun to ask questions then get upset when you get the answer. My wife does the same thing.

Here is a good tire guide from RC author Matt Higgins.

> Soft compounds offer the most traction, but wear faster
> For bashing, run the hardest compounds available as they’ll last longer
> Cold weather racing requires soft compounds
> You don’t have run the same tires front and rear; sometimes it’s helpful to run tires with less grip up front on a 2WD short course truck

Loose, Loamy Dirt. If the dirt is loose, a taller tread is needed to dig into the dirt. A tire like Pro-Line’s Caliber work well on this type of soft dirt. If the dirt is sticky, a tire with a lot of space between the lugs may be needed so that the dirt doesn’t pack into the tread but instead gets flung out. Tires with multi-layer treads like the Caliber also work well when I track first brings in new dirt that hasn’t fully compacted yet.

Hard-packed Surface with Loose Dirt on top. a tire with too tall of a tread with feel like it’s floating around, so a medium-sized tread works best. Good examples are Pro-Line’s Bow-Fighter and Blockade tires. If the dusty top layer is noticeable, try a tire like the Bow-Fighter. If the there is dust or a loose top layer in some spots or if the track conditions change but are mostly dry (just not muddy), try a tire similar to the Blockade.

Hard-packed Dirt with Some Dust on Top. If the track your running on is fairly hard packed, but doesn’t get swept clean of loose dirt and doesn’t have a noticeably “clean” groove around the whole track, you’ll need a tread with a little bit of height to get down to the surface. Pro-Line’s Sniper is similar to its Hole Shot, but designed to have that slightly taller tread.

Outdoor Hard-packed and Blue-groove Conditions. If the track surface is hard-packed, a tire with numerous small lugs will be able to work best. Pro-Line’s Hole Shot works well when there isn’t loose dirt to have to dig into. The numerous small lugs provide a lot of surface area and a lot of grip on the smoother surfaces.

Indoor Hard-packed and Clay. While tires that often work on hard-packed outdoor tracks may work indoors, usually tires with low bar shaped treads mixed with equally low but-traditionally-shaped lugs will provide a lot of contact with the track and good forward and side bite. An example would be Pro-Line’s Suburbs.

Joey I have read this same article Matt Higgins is a good writer and if I remember right he works for RC Car Action.

 

[frickenjoey]

Joey I have read this same article Matt Higgins is a good writer and if I remember right he works for RC Car Action.

Well if you gad read it, but you you obviously didn't remember anything from it or you would not have been asking all the questions and arguing about just "going wider". You should have known everything that was said already. However, you didn't, no surprises here.

 

[JoeMAXX]

Thanks for the Feed Back Little Joey

As you others may have read I have bought ProLine Bead Lock Rims and ProLine Bad Lands tires for my Slash VXL 4x4 in order to compensate for the Loose Unmaintained Track I run on ) The new Traxxas Big Bore Shocks were installed and I used my Losi Shock Balance tool to check rebound and shock tension so that each of the sets were equal in Length and rebound before and after the shock springs were install.

Sorry to say guys because of the abusive nature of some the members here I have moved on to a new Forum where they have so far appreciated my knowledge of R/Cs they are do not criticize others because in the end we are all here to help each other and not demean or abuse each each other. Yes you all know who you are and criticize others then beat them down to make yourself feel better Some come here to avoid boredom and other just do not have anything else better to do with there time.

I personally came on this site to help others and not call them names or criticize their lack of knowledge of something they just bought. Think hard DUDEs about how Teen Suicide is up because of online abuse by others just want to get out their anger issues on others.

Poor little LBJ will not be able to bully me any more and will have to put his anger into some one else. I will shed a tear for you little buddy I hate angry people that try to take you down to there level and want attention. Sorry that they require anger back but I am not that guy. I like a happy life

 

[nikko508]

I thought you left, I'm sory to see you go, now go...

 

[JoeMAXX]

I thought you left, I'm sory to see you go, now go...

Miss spelled drunkin banter Take good care little Nikko

 

[nikko508]

ban·ter**(bntr)n.Good-humored, playful conversation.v.*ban·tered,*ban·ter·ing,*ban·tersv.tr.To speak to in a playful or teasing way.v.intr.To exchange mildly teasing remarks.

Well my friend, at least you can tell when someone is playing around.

 

[frickenjoey]

Joe would you like me to point out all of your miss-spellings as well? In your PM you even miss-spelled GURU. Please take your meandering troglodyte BS somewhere else. So you found a forum where people are dumber than you? Amazing!!! Yeah I am sure they appreciate all your "history lessons"... stop being a tool your "other forum" misses you.

 

[JoeMAXX]

In my new forum I posted this on a HPI Truggy question about Steering servos

A little more info on replacing a Steering servo

I used a HiTec 24 Spline HS-645MG in my Trophy Truggy and it is 133 OZ with metal gears. I bought mine at the LHS because I like to spend money with them on small parts. $39.95

Nice thing I found is the Trophy Truggy had all of these servo horns included with it. So I was able to choose a Steering Servo of my choice over the stock plastic geared Servo. Most Stock servos only have about 80 OZ of torque.

Servo output shafts

23 tooth spline - Sanwa / Airtronics / KO / JR
24 tooth spline - Hitec
25 tooth spline - Futaba / TT / ACE / HPI/ Traxxas

With this information I already know I was able to drop a Futaba S3305 metal geared High Torque 125 OZ servo into my Slash without buying a new servo horn

---------- Post added at 9:37 PM ---------- Previous post was at 9:28 PM ----------

The abuse never seems to end with you guys I am a happy guy and need not to drop down to your level of depression and abuse

 

[frickenjoey]

By the way smart guy, I am sure most people would agree 125 & 133 Oz. are a little underpowered for a truggy. Try again.

 

[JoeMAXX]

By the way smart guy, I am sure most people would agree 125 & 133 Oz. are a little underpowered for a truggy. Try again.

Stock is 80 OZ genius on almost all RTRs

The Stock Servo that came with my HPI 4.6 Truggy is only 80 OZ and I put a 133 OZ HiTec servo in it just after I bought it.

I have 2 JR 125 OZ servos in my Revo and the stock were only 80 OZ I had to buy new servo horns for them to fit 8 years ago before I knew that Futaba and Traxxas used the same 25 spines for the servo horns. I have learned a lot in the years.

You never stop to be the head cheese

You once told me we are out here to debate rationally and That is what I do. Most people will put a 125 OZ or better Steering servo into a RTR to better the response times.

SO give me a better servo link at less then $50.00 bucks. Which is most peoples budget until we get into Digital Servos Yes I am posing a challange to you.

We can do this all day long and I can always bring in Web links to prove myself

How many drinks did you have today?

http://www.rcsuperstore.com/Traxxas_2055_High_Torque_80_oz_in_Steering_Servo_p/tra2055.htm

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p?FVPROFIL=&FVSEARCH=<b>high-</b>torque+servos

 

[nikko508]

Oops, man i hate when happens. Well, if they believed you this time, they will learn soon.

 

[Greywolf74]

By the way smart guy, I am sure most people would agree 125 & 133 Oz. are a little underpowered for a truggy. Try again.

I'll drink to that. I use 133oz in my 1/10 scale drifter....

If were so abusive, and if he is on the verge of teen suicide why does he keep coming back for more?