Why I absolutely despise fine thread hex screws, especially in plastic.

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biggman100

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I have a one year old Traxxas Slash 4X4 that was ran exactly 4 times in snow and water, and this is the 11TH fine thread hex head screw I have had to drill the head off to get it apart.
IMG_20230330_123155857.jpg

For comparison, this Arrma Raider XL BLX has been ran in every condition you can think of (mud, water, rain, snow, ice), for several years, and, although the screws are rusty, not only did I not strip even one of the Phillips screws, I also reused them when I recently stripped it and put it back together.
IMG_20230325_115913911.jpg
 
Only times I had problems was when I was lazy to clean out the screw so the driver didn't get seated all the way in. I hate Phillips heads. I can never find the right size bit.
 
Only times I had problems was when I was lazy to clean out the screw so the driver didn't get seated all the way in. I hate Phillips heads. I can never find the right size bit.
It's not just the size of the bit needed, but there are multiple types of Phillips screws. Standard Phillips, Reed & Prince, and those crazy Japanese ones that only Japanese screwdrivers work well on (Tamiya uses them). And they are not very compatible, which a lot of times is why it seems hard to get the correct size screwdriver to fit - because you have the wrong type. Tamiya sells two different screwdriver sets. One is a hobby set, and the other is an RC set. I bought the hobby set, and guess what? There isn't a single screwdriver in it that fit the screws in their RC kits. Not even close.
 
When putting together the latest iteration of my Rustler speed runner, used Axial self tapping screws every where I could. They have hex heads so are compatible with my tool kit.

Threads on the self-tappers are more coarse than corresponding size threaded and grip composite tightly. Easy in-Easy out. Quick in-Quick out. Consider giving them a try next build. Cheers. 'AC'
 
I really don't have any problems with my slash and rustler. The traxxas hex screws I haven't stripped any of them ( besides when I use the electric screwdriver )

I have a cheap amazon screw kit. I have problems with those screws. They strip out alot. The kit was 500 pieces, and was 16 dollars. Pretty cheap. Next time I might get a RC Screwz kit. I have one of their kits for the mini b. Nice stainless steel screw kit (it is more for the mini t with 1.3mm hex drivers/screws but still works with the mini b.
 
Only times I had problems was when I was lazy to clean out the screw so the driver didn't get seated all the way in. I hate Phillips heads. I can never find the right size bit.
I use a mini straight pick tool to clean out the heads (works on Phillips, standard and hex heads), and, even with an $80 set of Snap On T-Handle drivers, I somehow manage to constantly strip hex head screws. Most Phillips I run into RC related use a #2 bit. It might be because I'm also use to removing rusted Philips screws in 1:1 cars ( got to love living where they use more salt on the roads than the do on the food lol).
I never have a problem removing any screw in plastic. That's just weird.
This is something I run into quite often. It's almost like the plastic gets hot and melts and locks the screw in place.
 
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I use a mini straight pick tool to clean out the heads (works on Phillips, standard and hex heads), and, even with an $80 set of Snap On T-Handle drivers, I somehow manage to constantly strip hex head screws. Most Phillips I run into RC related use a #2 bit. It might be because I'm also use to removing rusted Philips screws in 1:1 cars ( got to love living where they use more salt on the roads than the do on the food lol).
I have used Snap-On brand hex wrenches, and I wasn't that impressed. Their bigger sizes are ok (but whose aren't 🤪), but their smaller ones were crap compared to Wera, Eklind, or Bondhus. I had a lot of Snap-On and Blue-Point stuff because we had a great Snap-On guy coming through once a week with good deals. I even got my Snap-On hex drivers replaced twice in a few month's time because they didn't hold up, yet I used the same Eklind and Bondhus T-handles for 25 years.
 
Small dab of epoxy on the end of a cheap hex wrench, insert into stripped bolt head and let cure. Works 95% of the time for me. Then I just take a torch and cook the epoxy off the wrench.

Obviously doesn't work if you are in a big hurry.

I have a drawer full of small hex wrenches from various tool sets, furniture, and that I have randomly picked up off the street. You can also go to the pawn shop and pick them up cheap usually.
 
I really don't have any problems with my slash and rustler. The traxxas hex screws I haven't stripped any of them ( besides when I use the electric screwdriver )

I have a cheap amazon screw kit. I have problems with those screws. They strip out alot. The kit was 500 pieces, and was 16 dollars. Pretty cheap. Next time I might get a RC Screwz kit. I have one of their kits for the mini b. Nice stainless steel screw kit (it is more for the mini t with 1.3mm hex drivers/screws but still works with the mini b.

If you are already stripping screws do not get the Rc Screwz kits, they use cheap stainless steel. Just do a Google search about them and you will find many threads about them stripping or bending really easily.
 
If you are already stripping screws do not get the Rc Screwz kits, they use cheap stainless steel. Just do a Google search about them and you will find many threads about them stripping or bending really easily.
Yea I only use them for my 1/16 mini so bending them shouldn't be an issue but on larger cars than I can see that as an issue.
 
I have used Snap-On brand hex wrenches, and I wasn't that impressed. Their bigger sizes are ok (but whose aren't 🤪), but their smaller ones were crap compared to Wera, Eklind, or Bondhus. I had a lot of Snap-On and Blue-Point stuff because we had a great Snap-On guy coming through once a week with good deals. I even got my Snap-On hex drivers replaced twice in a few month's time because they didn't hold up, yet I used the same Eklind and Bondhus T-handles for 25 years.
I've never had an issue with the smaller ones, but, I have broken an 8MM, and bent a couple of the bigger ones. I think it's because I'm way more gentle with the smaller ones. The Snap On bits though, I have had almost 10 years, and except for losing a couple, have never had an issue with them. The issue I have with constantly stripping hex screws on RC cars might just be a matter of being too impatient with them. Who knows.
 
I've never had an issue with the smaller ones, but, I have broken an 8MM, and bent a couple of the bigger ones. I think it's because I'm way more gentle with the smaller ones. The Snap On bits though, I have had almost 10 years, and except for losing a couple, have never had an issue with them. The issue I have with constantly stripping hex screws on RC cars might just be a matter of being too impatient with them. Who knows.
I have to admit, I never let my screws get in as bad of shape as yours are in that pic. We run ours in wet conditions sometimes, but I always spray them down with WD40 afterwards to dissipate all the moisture.
 
I have to admit, I never let my screws get in as bad of shape as yours are in that pic. We run ours in wet conditions sometimes, but I always spray them down with WD40 afterwards to dissipate all the moisture.
I bought it that way. Its how a lot of the used trucks i pick up are. I have just gotten used to replacing all the screws anytime i buy one. Of the ones i picked up lately, the only two i havent had issues with are the Arrma Raider XL and an ECX Torment, and, in just the last few days, i have picked up another 4 (Losi TEN-SCTE (that needs some serious help with all the small parts, like links and bearings), Associated DR10 (that one is mostly just the chassis though), HPI Jumpshot SC in pieces, and a Losi Mini-B, and this time, i seem to have gotten lucky, because nothing is really rusty, just extremely dirty, except the DR10. That one almost looks like it was never ran. Because i buy them used, i have gotten in the habit of stripping them, replacing all the screws, rebuilding shocks, oiling the diffs, and cleaning them really good.
 
I'm not sure what to tell you other than I can count on both hands the number of times I've ever stripped a hex head completely in the 15+ years I've been in the hobby. That being said I dont use stainless steel hardware and if a hex even slightly starts to strip I immediately replace it.
 
I'm not sure what to tell you other than I can count on both hands the number of times I've ever stripped a hex head completely in the 15+ years I've been in the hobby. That being said I dont use stainless steel hardware and if a hex even slightly starts to strip I immediately replace it.
I wouldnt use stainless in an RC car. i fight with them enough in boats, jet-ski's and snowmobiles, although, by the time anyone asks me to work on their water or snow toys, they have been sitting outside 5 or more years. My favorite story about being asked to look at a jet-ski, a guy brought both of his to me because they wouldnt start, 45 minutes from where he lived to my house, and It took me all of 30 seconds to remind him that, like his truck, they need fuel too. Anymore though with the RC cars, i always just plan on stripping them and replacing all the screws. I typically just replace them all with fine thread Phillips, and never have an issue again.
 
That's really bizarre. I've never had an issue with a hex screw in plastic but not to say that it couldn't happen.

There is a thread lock compound for plastic. I doubt that Traxxas would use, but anything is possible.
https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Assure-Plastic-Fastener-Threadlocker/dp/B004FCO66I

However, I've stripped plenty of screw heads into metal. Arrma has a thread lock fetish. Ok I may have gotten a bit happy with it too occasionally. Now I heat every metal to metal screw before I try to pull it, and that solves almost all the problems. It is a bit tricky to if you have a bunch of plastic bits around it. So I cover those with some foil as a bit of heat shielding.

Even with all the drama I still like them much better than Philips head.
 
My marine salt experience with stainless they are weaker than you would expect comparing to steel.
 
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