Which is more cost effective the kraton 8s rtr or the exb

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Nutts4RC

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I'm looking at a kraton 8s rtr but noticed the exb has some parts already upgraded all i need would be the electronics. Which one would be a little lighter on the wallet?
 
Both are heavy cars on the wallet. I would recommend a 4s kraton or 6s kraton on 4s if you want lighter on the wallet.
 
That totally depends on the electronics you buy. If you spent the same money on each, the RTR would possibly be the better rig. But if you want something better than the RTR, the EXB will have you well on your way. But you will have more money in the EXB in the end, because it wouldn't make much sense to buy the EXB and throw cheap electronics in it. On the flip side, if you bought the RTR, and slowly upgraded it to the EXB, you'd likely have a lot more money in the RTR in the end.
 
I'm looking at a kraton 8s rtr but noticed the exb has some parts already upgraded all i need would be the electronics. Which one would be a little lighter on the wallet?
RTR, mine was decent out of the box with RPM arms all around.


EXB will be $1000+ with quality electronics or $950 using stock ( Amazon has the EXB rollers for $560 )
 
Both are heavy cars on the wallet. I would recommend a 4s kraton or 6s kraton on 4s if you want lighter on the wallet.
I already have the 6s. But broke the bumper and sheared off the screw heads that hold the lower hinge pins to the body. I can't figure out how to repair it
 
I already have the 6s. But broke the bumper and sheared off the screw heads that hold the lower hinge pins to the body. I can't figure out how to repair it
Its totally fix able.

Fix your Kraton 6s before getting a new rig.
 

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Oh. You still haven't got those out? Use these...
View attachment 152643
I tried wicked. It didnt work. Idk if they are lock tited in or what the deal is. I've tried everything short of taking the front end apart piece by peice and just mounting it onto the m2c exb chassis i have but idk if i have the patience for all that since idk how to set mesh and gearing
 
I tried wicked. It didnt work. Idk if they are lock tited in or what the deal is. I've tried everything short of taking the front end apart piece by peice and just mounting it onto the m2c exb chassis i have but idk if i have the patience for all that since idk how to set mesh and gearing
Setting gear mesh is mostly only needed on the motor pinion to spur, and that's a piece of cake. I would say send it to me and I would fix it for you, but you don't have too difficult a problem there. Those screws are threaded into plastic right? There won't be loctite on them.

Take the arms off so you can get a bite on the screws. I assume you are trying to grab them from the end. That won't work nearly as well as gripping them from the side.
 
Setting gear mesh is mostly only needed on the motor pinion to spur, and that's a piece of cake. I would say send it to me and I would fix it for you, but you don't have too difficult a problem there. Those screws are threaded into plastic right? There won't be loctite on them.

Take the arms off so you can get a bite on the screws. I assume you are trying to grab them from the end. That won't work nearly as well as gripping them from the side.
So take the lower arms off and use pliers to grip the thread on the side rather than head on am i correct?
 
I told you what was stopping your removal of them. they are bent inside
 
I told you what was stopping your removal of them. they are bent inside
That dont tell me how to get them out bro. That just tells me why they might not be able to come out lol
 
The RTR will be cheaper assuming you put better electronics in the EXB which I'm assuming you would or else why buy the upgraded EXB in the first place? That being said, either way you go you're going to need at minimum:
1) Aftermarket 7075 T6 aluminum chassis plate once the stock one bends which if you bash much at all prolly wont take very long.
2) Upgraded rear camber links. Something hardened not stainless steel after market parts. Stainless steel bends easily
3) Upgraded steering servo

No matter how you slice it, you're dropping some cash on a K8
 
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