You can make a plate for the upper links really easy. Most of the plates on the market are aluminum and kinda heavy, but you can use lexan to make a featherweight plate, like the porn star plate thats in one of the recent threads. I used clear lexan from a "pupcorn" dog treat container, because my dog goes through a lot of pupcorn so I have a lot of the containers saved just for the lexan. Also, get some heavy suty velcro to mount your electronics. It will hold just as strong as anything you'll need, and that way you can move your stuff around without having to peel the tape up, try to get the residue off, use more tape, and all that mess. With velcro, you can just switch the components around, or if you do like me and end up with 5 or 6 crawlers, you can swap components from one to the other easily. Just make sure that you always use the same side on the chassis and electronics, so they'll always match up, male and female.
If you mount everything down low, you don't have to use the battery plate, and it lowers the COG signifigantly. You might as well set it up right the first time.
If you run a battery that doesn't fit on the axle mount (which you'll most likely need to do to run a battery big enough for that puller motor), you can mount the battery on the upper link tray in the front, and the receiver and ESC on the low COG servo/battery mount on the front axle. Or you can just run the ESC up there and put the receiver on the rear servo plate.
I run my antenna in a tube against the the chassis long ways, but you might want to mount it vertically. If you mount the receiver on the rear servo plate, you can attach the antenna mount from the top battery plate onto the rear servo plate, and mount your antenna there. It will clear the body, and wont stick up quite so far.
I've seen a lot of people make a scale CB antenna holder, and make a "whip" style antenna, which looked rather scale, but I like everything tucked away under the body.
