Where are all the MGT owners????

[animal47]

i have now returned after 3 years of not using my mgt.
managed 1 tank and had engine probs which i have now traced to a leaking front bearing seal so engine now in bits ready to put back together.
shame really as the sh .28 engine that i fitted has only had under 1/2 gallon through it but i guess that is my fault for leaving it untouched for so long. will hopefully be all back together by the end of the weekend.

 

[jerryfry]

Here's Mine, not been run for over three years.

 

[alienman86]

jerryfry what engine do you have

look like a 2.5trx:whhooo:

truck looks great

 

[sho66a]

mgt 8.0 forever

I have both a mgt 8.0 and a losi lst. 8.0 is the far better truck lets get this forum up and active

 

[MR4X4KING]

i have one with a stock 21 nothing fancy
just has aluminum shock towers and body posts and rpm arms all around

 

[sho66a]

It all starts with stock

 

[Nubster]

I'm an ex-owner if that counts...

 

[sho66a]

mgt 8.0

Here it is

 

[jojoviudez]

We're still around - just with the nice weather, everyone is out enjoying their RC's - fortunately, the MGT's don't break too often, so there aren't a ton of posts.

Here's mine - sporting a 6/6 nylon cage (this was my first try, so i'll be building a neater one eventually) and running a CEN 7.7 pipe (the only viable rear-mount tuned pipe for the 8.0, IMO) - it REALLY opens her up and i don't notice any discernible low end loss - still has vicious low and middle range. Perfect match if you ask me.

anyways - pic as she sits now + pic of the pipe (ignore the clear tubing - that's been replaced with much heavier silicon - i was using it mainly for mock up)

Hi I know this thread is old already but I just noticed that you made your own roll cage. Can you please share how you did this?

 

[Goatcrapp]

Hi I know this thread is old already but I just noticed that you made your own roll cage. Can you please share how you did this?

Sure - I used 6/6 nylon rod - you can buy it here: http://www.eplastics.com/Plastic/Nylon_Rod

.35" and .5" are good to work with.

You can also use delrin rod - but delrin is a bit stiffer... a little harder to work with and slightly more brittle. I won't say one is necessarily better, but for a first time - i would stick with the 6/6 nylon.

You bend it by heating the area you wish to bend. do it SLOWLY until the rod starts looking wet. If you go too fast, it'll bubble, and char - releasing harmful fumes, as well as weakening the joint. A hair dryer will work, btu will take forever. I used a paint stripping heat gun on low (400 degrees) - on high, it will burn almost immediately.

Bend slowly, taking your time. If you don't get the bend you want right away - add more heat and keep bending slowly.

You have to let the joint cool a bit to fix itself in position - but while it's still flexible, you want to dip it in water to fix it without sagging or losing its shape. don't dip it too soon because it could crack, or have a weak joint.. but i'd say air cool for a minute to 90 seconds per joint, then dip it.

Mounting points are up to you.. some people use tubing, flag holders, etc... I used metal plates and screws - with only a few using the rod itself as the screw point.. but the load supporting ones being sandwiched between plates and a nut/bolt.

Just go slow, and buy extra rod - plan on messing up.

Try to make as few cuts as possible - its strongest in a single shape. When you need to cut - use a fine tooth hack saw, or a good long handled tree pruner - that worked best for me, but you'll bruise your palms if you're doing a lot of cuts.. this stuff is hard to cut.

 

[jojoviudez]

Sure - I used 6/6 nylon rod - you can buy it here: http://www.eplastics.com/Plastic/Nylon_Rod

.35" and .5" are good to work with.

You can also use delrin rod - but delrin is a bit stiffer... a little harder to work with and slightly more brittle. I won't say one is necessarily better, but for a first time - i would stick with the 6/6 nylon.

You bend it by heating the area you wish to bend. do it SLOWLY until the rod starts looking wet. If you go too fast, it'll bubble, and char - releasing harmful fumes, as well as weakening the joint. A hair dryer will work, btu will take forever. I used a paint stripping heat gun on low (400 degrees) - on high, it will burn almost immediately.

Bend slowly, taking your time. If you don't get the bend you want right away - add more heat and keep bending slowly.

You have to let the joint cool a bit to fix itself in position - but while it's still flexible, you want to dip it in water to fix it without sagging or losing its shape. don't dip it too soon because it could crack, or have a weak joint.. but i'd say air cool for a minute to 90 seconds per joint, then dip it.

Mounting points are up to you.. some people use tubing, flag holders, etc... I used metal plates and screws - with only a few using the rod itself as the screw point.. but the load supporting ones being sandwiched between plates and a nut/bolt.

Just go slow, and buy extra rod - plan on messing up.

Try to make as few cuts as possible - its strongest in a single shape. When you need to cut - use a fine tooth hack saw, or a good long handled tree pruner - that worked best for me, but you'll bruise your palms if you're doing a lot of cuts.. this stuff is hard to cut.

Thank you so much for the detailed info. I am very impressed with your diy roll cage. First time I saw this type of roll cage is on YouTube being tested by guys from Australia. You should consider offering to sell these final products for other mgt users to enjoy their Rc protected by a real roll cage. Not by aluminum stuff only used for shelf display. In my opinion, you did a good job with your cage. I plan to use it on my savage x. By the way, if you are planning to make another cage for your mgt or other r/c can you please post it here or send it to my email [email protected] please. Thanks again.

 

[RcWrencher]

I Still have my mgt, my personal favorite as the floorplan is a little easier to work with than the Savage. Not to knock the savage though, I've owned three and like them as well. As far as the LST goes, i could take it or leave it. They are overpriced and have their fair share of driveline problems. I owned an lst and sold it cause the diff's are junk. They are alright even still.

After a 3 year break i came back to realize that the mgt has really seemed to die off, not much enthusiasm for it anymore, has the savage really stolen the show? I can't tell you how many "Should i get a MGT or Savage" threads I read before my break, now its like the savage is king

On a side note, The dual tank conversion has my interest peaked, what must one do to accomplish this?

 

[sho66a]

dual tank

I Still have my mgt, my personal favorite as the floorplan is a little easier to work with than the Savage. Not to knock the savage though, I've owned three and like them as well. As far as the LST goes, i could take it or leave it. They are overpriced and have their fair share of driveline problems. I owned an lst and sold it cause the diff's are junk. They are alright even still.

After a 3 year break i came back to realize that the mgt has really seemed to die off, not much enthusiasm for it anymore, has the savage really stolen the show? I can't tell you how many "Should i get a MGT or Savage" threads I read before my break, now its like the savage is king

On a side note, The dual tank conversion has my interest peaked, what must one do to accomplish this?

All you need is a second stock tank and the screws that hold down the tank some fuel tubing and fuel line t's. You need to notch the back right side of the new fuel tank to fit around the roll bar and be careful not to break the seal of the tank and then layout and drill holes to mount the tank once this is done you need to connect the preasure lines from both tanks with the one t and connect it to go into the tuned pipe and then connect the fuel supply lines with the other t and connect to the carb on motor make sure that the primer bulb is inline after the t and before the carb so that both tanks will be primed with the one bulb. Make sure you richen motor by a 1/8 of a turn and readjust as needed.

 

[RcWrencher]

seems easy enough to do.... Now i need to decise if the extra tank is going to be worth going back to a rear exhause. I'm currently running side exhaust. Decisions decisions......

 

[PyroZuki]

Hey there. I'm new to the site, and just tryin to get back into the swing of Nitro things. I have a MGT 4.60 SE. At the moment, I'm tryin to find a place tobuy upgrade parts to bulletproof my rig, but haven't found anywhere yet. I currently have RPM arms and gold springs up front, and I'm runnin Futaba 3PM rx/tx.

http://s417.photobucket.com/albums/pp256/purozuki/Team Associated MGT 460 SE/

See ya around!
Pyro

 

[yammaha]

The main problem i have with my mgt is the turnbuckles. i seem to break my fair shair of them.

 

[rokitt51]

My MGT 8.0 sucks rabbit nuts for real. Running rich and still having temps over 280. Was sent a new carb from Don of AE customer service and still no change. Forward gear in the truck achieves an amazing 22 MPH as of about 10 mins ago. Reverse completely wilds out and hauls @ss. 38 MPH! I just can't control it in reverse that well lol. Anyone have any input on any of this? Right now my favs are still the T Maxx 3.3. How does the exchange process work with AE? I'm not gonna keep this thing the way it is. I want a new one already. Paid too much for this crappy truck. Hopefully this one is that `1 in a million bad crappy POS truck that slipped thru.

 

[imtired111]

My MGT 8.0 sucks rabbit nuts for real. Running rich and still having temps over 280. Was sent a new carb from Don of AE customer service and still no change. Forward gear in the truck achieves an amazing 22 MPH as of about 10 mins ago. Reverse completely wilds out and hauls @ss. 38 MPH! I just can't control it in reverse that well lol. Anyone have any input on any of this? Right now my favs are still the T Maxx 3.3. How does the exchange process work with AE? I'm not gonna keep this thing the way it is. I want a new one already. Paid too much for this crappy truck. Hopefully this one is that `1 in a million bad crappy POS truck that slipped thru.

chances are the reason your engine isnt running right is because it is not sealed. do a forum search of engine seal or something like that or read the rc newbies guide in the rc nitro talk section. as for the 22 mph, the transmission is a 2 speed so 22 from first gear is alright. however if the truck is not shifting into second there may be a problem. all of your problems are setup and driver error not the truck. associated would not build a 500 dollar truck and have it be a piece of crap.

 

[Goatcrapp]

To be fair - what you've said, imtired, supports rokitt's point. ie: the fact that a 500 dollar truck should be set up *mostly* properly from the factory.

So you're right about set up problems... but being right about that doesn't suddenly remove the onus of these problems from AE.

How do you figure it being driver error? lol. Don't get all elitist defensive just because this particular person ran into a few of the common problems this truck has - but *shouldn't* have.

My engine needed to be sealed on my MGT, too. I discovered it with barely 3 tanks through. Its a problem so common enough that I deem it a fault of QC, not a low-probability lemon from the factory.

Same goes for the gear change. Mine wouldn't wind out to second gear at all until i turned the magic screw.

Lets also talk about the fact that AE's own literature for the needle settings, both pre and post break-in are not at all reflective of reality... I'm referring to the 8.0 so i don't know how common these issues are with the 4.6 or etc... but the QC on the 8.0 was very hit or miss.. same goes for the thunder tiger equivalent of this vehicle.

These are issues that every other major player in the RC world has got down pat... and while every vehicle has strengths and weaknesses... its silly to dismiss these problems as "just part of the hobby." - That might have been true 15 years ago, but we've come a long way since then.

For what its worth - my REDCAT had neither problem... None of the hpi, traxxas, or losi vehicles i've had were saddled with such problems either.. at best a little tweaking... sealing an engine involves a bit of teardown - something they should have bothered doing before sending it out.

With that said - fixing the few small issues will yield an amazingly tough vehicle, so give it a little attention, rokitt, and you'll be enjoying the vehicle in no time.

 

[imtired111]

thank you for pointing out those faults as they are my fault. however, saying that problems like that are not part of the hobby simply is not true. problems are most definitely a part of the hobby. not a single manufacturer that i know of seals the engine. that is a responsibility of the owner. also, mast cars are built by someone who would much rather be at home watching tv. they are not going to take the time to adjust every little detail of the vehicle to make it the most perfect thing since sliced bread. that is a responsibility of the owner. you are right that once these little issues are fixed, he will have a great truck. it is just the owners responsibility to deal with the setup and tuning things that the manufacturer can't do for you.