Wheelie question (old title "tuning")

[nitro83857]

i have a s-maxx and i was woundering how to make my truck more responsive and wheelie on demand

 

[SIRMAXXALOT]

you can gear it or just change some suspension settings.

 

[nitro83857]

what kind of suspension settings

 

[SpitFireV12RR]

Well...have you gone through break-in? It may be a little sluggish for the first gallon, but as long as it's tuned well, it should give you what you want.

You have the TRX 2.5, correct?

 

[nitro83857]

yes i have a TRX 2.5 and i have broken it in

 

[SkyMaxx]

There have been a number of threads specific to this very issue. Have you tried using the search function of the site?

This was posted a while ago...

You can do a number of things to get wheelies. All have been discussed in pretty good detail on this site.

The first thing you can do is adjust the center of gravity of the truck. How? Lighten the front of the truck and make the rear heavier (ie tie a brick to the back).

The next thing you can do is get an engine that is so powerful that no matter the gearing, you end up with wheelies all the time (kind of annoying, but effective in the wheelie department).

The next thing you can do is set up your gearing to gain wheelies from your current engine. The smaller clutch bell, larger spur gear line of thought is right on.

The final thing you can do is set up your suspension to gain wheelies. This can effectively move the center of gravity of the truck when full throttle is put on. How? There are two schools of thought on this. I have success with this one: lighten up the rear suspension and stiffen up the front. This allows the truck to really squat under power. This further allows the rear wheels to drive up under the front of the truck creating a wheelie.

The specifics of any of the above methods are only limited by your creativity, research and depth of your wallet.

I seriously recommend using the search function. You can save yourself a lot of waiting time with respect to answers. Many of your questions may already have been asked and answered.

And yet another oldie but goodie with some links to further discussion of the topic. Read and enjoy.

Not this discussion again...

In this instance, the longer chassis plays more into the wheelie issue than you would think SHK. By adding an inch or two in length, the new chassis length moves the center of gravity forward. The longer moment arm for the front end of the truck means the engine has to work that much harder to get the wheels off the deck.

While the shocks to play a part in the ability to generate a wheelie, the case being discussed here is less of a suspension set up question.

I would love to once again discuss the two schools of thought on wheelie generation with respect to suspension set up, but I think I'll just use the search function and post a couple of the links...

https://www.rcnitrotalk.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=4753&highlight=wheelies

https://www.rcnitrotalk.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=6948&highlight=wheelies

Of note, you could also adjust your gearing to obtain or negate wheelies. This handles power transfer from the engine to the wheels. If you gear for low end torque, you will be more likely to pull the wheels up. If you gear for top speed, then the likelihood of wheelies off the line is low.

Personally, the novelty of the wheelie wears thin pretty quickly...I think you should be happy that you have managed to do away with them.

-SkyMaxx

 

[4u2nv]

Well...have you gone through break-in? It may be a little sluggish for the first gallon, but as long as it's tuned well, it should give you what you want.

You have the TRX 2.5, correct?

The 1st Gallon??? lol... Maybe the 1st 1/2 quart after break in there cheif.

If ya wanna run wheelies all ya have to do is buy a higher tooth Spur gear. Wheelies are cool for about uh... 5 minutes. Then it just becomes annoying. But yeah, try the search function. Its a kick ass tool and most likely you will find most of your answers there.

 

[SpitFireV12RR]

Well...then my engine sucks ass. I didn't see a diffrence in power after break-in untill I got through the first gallon.

 

[SkyMaxx]

Perhaps the engine isn't all the way broken in. Some engines take quite a bit of fuel, and then even then they take a few more runs.

Your engine might not truly suck ass (other than the fact that it is a TRAXXAS engine)...it might need some tuning to go along with it. Perhaps you are running a bit on the not-so-lean side.

 

[SpitFireV12RR]

MY engine? I'm running a Picco(Produced by Ofna) Force .26 .

 

[SkyMaxx]

Nope...speaking about the fella with the TRAXXAS TRX 2.5, but thanks for clarifying.

I did have a bit of cross reading in there...your engine might also not be all the way broken in.

 

[ZANDOR]

MY engine? I'm running a Picco(Produced by Ofna) Force .26 .

LOL yet another A/B conversation....Get it?

 

[Diver6127]

Well...then my engine sucks ass. I didn't see a diffrence in power after break-in untill I got through the first gallon.

Needing a gallon to fully break-in an engine is not uncommon. All my engines have needed close to a full gallon before really waking up.

Initial break-in is important to hone the surfaces and loosen things up a bit. The engine will continue to get better anywhere from 1/2 to a full gallon. After that, it'll be a performer up to the point where compression starts to fade and a repinch or rebuild will be necessary.

 

[ZANDOR]

Needing a gallon to fully break-in an engine is not uncommon. All my engines have needed close to a full gallon before really waking up.

Initial break-in is important to hone the surfaces and loosen things up a bit. The engine will continue to get better anywhere from 1/2 to a full gallon. After that, it'll be a performer up to the point where compression starts to fade and a repinch or rebuild will be necessary.

My RBWS711 took right around a gallon to get it performing just right!

 

[SpitFireV12RR]

Needing a gallon to fully break-in an engine is not uncommon. All my engines have needed close to a full gallon before really waking up.

Initial break-in is important to hone the surfaces and loosen things up a bit. The engine will continue to get better anywhere from 1/2 to a full gallon. After that, it'll be a performer up to the point where compression starts to fade and a repinch or rebuild will be necessary.

Ya...my .26 still can't be held at full throttle very long. I think I am running a tad rich, but I don't care...as long as I have enough power to smash into a mail-box, bend the chassie and cost myself about $100 to fix it, I'm happy...Better to be safe than sorry, right?

 

[Supernitro17]

Well...then my engine sucks ass. I didn't see a diffrence in power after break-in untill I got through the first gallon.

no 2.5s suck ass i love mine.... after break in they need to be run hard and fast for a little bit and they start to get more punch.

I've had a bunch of aftermarket engines, small blocks, big blocks and everything, and the 2.5 was, and is, a really nice motor.

take out whatever car you have it in to a big parking lot, and do some flat out high speed drag runs back and forth, and cruise it around to let it cool every now and then. tune as needed.

 

[NCNitro]

My RBWS711 took right around a gallon to get it performing just right!

I just finished breaking in my WS7II in my PCR Pro. This thing is crazy fast already, I can't wait to see how it gets aroung the gallon mark.

I have definately noticed most of my mills really started to come to life around the one gallon mark. Not that they performed poorly before that, but they really seem to wake up at that point.

 

[ZANDOR]

Joe just wait till that gallon mark..You will be very inpressed