What is a way of spinning the engine to start it?

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Roog

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Hi, I completely new to the world of RC cars, I have acquired a Mardave Marauder and have stripped it down to clean and check its parts. I have a silly beginner's question, I have the Irvine .21 engine out and mounted in a fork shaped block of wood so that I can put it in a vice, what’s a good and cheap way of spinning the engine to start it?

Unlike a model plane, I can’t wack a starter motor on the spinner or for a boat engine I would use a belt in the flywheel pulley. I just have the standard knurled flywheel. any ideas ?

I have tried wrapping a cord around the flywheel but it’s a bit tiresome, especially as the engine set up is unknown and could take a bit of tinkering.

Your thoughts are welcomed.
 
You could probably remove the flywheel and fit a prop just for the bench-testing / restoration, would also give it a natural resistance to overspeeding.

Otherwise you might need to use a handheld starter with a "bump" wheel like this one, though that example's pretty pricey for just the wheel...
 
If the backplate can hold a pullstarter (if it has four holes where screws can be screwed in), the cheapest option will probably be to get one. Note that most of the pullstarters have these screw holes 27mm out of eachother, while the vintage ones sometimes have a bigger backplate with 32mm between 2 holes. A pic would help. Imo a marauder wasn't the best car the start with😂
 
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You could probably remove the flywheel and fit a prop just for the bench-testing / restoration, would also give it a natural resistance to overspeeding.

Otherwise you might need to use a handheld starter with a "bump" wheel like this one, though that example's pretty pricey for just the wheel...

You know, this is probably the cheapest solution and the load would be a good idea. Cheers
 
If the backplate can hold a pullstarter (if it has four holes where screws can be screwed in), the cheapest option will probably be to get one. Note that most of the pullstarters have these screw holes 27mm out of eachother, while the vintage ones sometimes have a bigger backplate with 32mm between 2 holes. A pic would help. Imo a marauder wasn't the best car the start with😂

I have taken the back plate off, its plastic! and I see no way of connecting a pull starter because the crank finishes flush with the big end bearing. But i like the idea.
You could probably remove the flywheel and fit a prop just for the bench-testing / restoration, would also give it a natural resistance to overspeeding.

Otherwise you might need to use a handheld starter with a "bump" wheel like this one, though that example's pretty pricey for just the wheel...

I did have a quick go at making a bump wheel using a battery drill and some bits and pieces and i found it very difficult to hold steady when bumping the flywheel. I can see how a starter box might get around this. I was just trying to avoid the expense because as yet I'm not sure if the engine is a runner.

Thank you everyone for your replies, i think the airscrew as a short term test rig is the way to go.
 
Starter box is gonna be easiest. Unless you don't have and don't plan to have other nitro cars, it's a worthwhile investment.
 
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Yes indeed, disappointing
Starter box is gonna be easiest. Unless you don't have and don't plan to have other nitro cars, it's a worthwhile investment.
I agree it would, buying one without the battery pack would be reasonably cost effective as I have a small car battery which I could use.
Imo a marauder wasn't the best car the start with😂

I agree, I had heard of Mardave, probably through an early electric car race meet, but this is my first sight of the marauder and I was a little taken aback at the lack of bearings of any description.
 
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Prop, nut & spinner on order, I’d better whittle myself a chicken stick!
 
it’s a runner! Swings a 9 x 5 without a sweat.
I tell you what though, the prop turns seriously close to the carb, nothing like my old HB 20
 
You might poke around Here

I notice that they still sell parts for my old donated car!
Currently thinking of what to do about the old damaged back wheels.
one plan is to turn this into a tethered car racer, change the wheels, halve the overall gear ratio by removing the straight cut gears and make a new body shell. I spotted a very nice lotus 49 look alike but this is likely to require a narrower and thicker chassis plate.
 
Man, nowadays nitro and gas don’t compare to electrics.

Totally agree, nothing matches the thrill of getting a tune dialed in and hearing the engine sing! ;) That's what this sub-forum is all about!

(Sarcasm aside, we nitro heads don't come over and troll the electric sub-forums. In fact, many of us are fans of both- you catch my drift?)
 
Totally agree, nothing matches the thrill of getting a tune dialed in and hearing the engine sing! ;) That's what this sub-forum is all about!

(Sarcasm aside, we nitro heads don't come over and troll the electric sub-forums. In fact, many of us are fans of both- you catch my drift?)
Even though I don't have any nitros or know anything about them, I agree on that. We shall see if I get into Nitro's later on in my hobby.
 
Nitro & gas require a lot of maintainance
Gas defo does not need (much) maintenance. Once set correctly, it can be fine for years, except cleaning ofc. Nitro, indeed, does require maintenance but that's a big part of the hobby. Imo I enjoy working on them.

"plus they still need a battery for the servo and stuff"- What hobby-grade electric doesn't have servo's, receivers and batteries? Just like whole electric RC's, the electric part of nitro's and gas RC's is plug-in-go

No real need to discuss about it as it's one of those things where, if you don't feel it, you can't get it explained
 
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