What Battery do you use for your speedy RC boat?

Welcome to RCTalk

Come join other RC enthusiasts! You'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Brassodin

RC Newbie
Messages
6
Reaction score
0
Hello, I have a Joysway Madflow and it is so much fun, however, I am using a 2200Mah/11.1V/35C/3S battery and find it is dead after a few minutes, indicated by the boat just stopping dead and only being responsive via input from the transmitter for about a second every ten seconds or so, enough to get it back to shore. I find the battery is also hot. So I am think of getting a larger Mah battery so would run longer and increasing the C to prevent battery getting too hot. I would be interested to know what battery setup you peps use to get a longer playtime out of your boat, or if I am missing a trick here. Many thanks. Carlo.
 
Last edited:
The first questions that come to mind are. Is this the same battery you used before or is this just a random battery you bought thinking it would work and youd never run this boat before? Is it the stock electronics in the boat still or have you made upgrades? Can the boat hold a bigger and heavier Lipo?
 
Hiya, the boat is stock electronics, pre built out of box, no mods, and the battery above is a per recommendation from manufacturer in manual, I got an Overlander battery from ModelSport. So, yep, first few times I have run the boat on these new lipos. The batterry in 100mm long and defo can't be any longer than that or wont fit in boat, but may be able to go one cell higher to 4s, may be
 
I would not recommend going to a 4S lipo. Most smaller scale brushless electronics are only designed for 2-3S typically. I see nothing on the specs of the ESC other than its rated at 30A and the recommended lipo is a 3s 1300-2200mah 35C which you have. If youve done nothing at all to mod the boat (stock prop and everything?) then we have a puzzling issue that may need the manufacturers help sorting out. You could try a higher mah/C rated lipo but you're already at the upper end of what the manufacturer recommends. What style connectors are you using for ESC and LiPo?

Follow up question. Are you sure its LVC thats kicking in or is it a thermal cut off from the ESC getting to hot?
 
Last edited:
is your esc rated for 4 cell? Id increase C rate 1st..I'm not a fan of a 35c battery by any means.if your battery is dead (lvc kicking in) a larger C will help but it will not give you a way longer run time. get 2 batteries to switch out after electronics cool down to have a longer run time..
 
could there be an issue if I get lipo with higher MaH
 
is your esc rated for 4 cell? Id increase C rate 1st..I'm not a fan of a 35c battery by any means.if your battery is dead (lvc kicking in) a larger C will help but it will not give you a way longer run time. get 2 batteries to switch out after electronics cool down to have a longer run time..
Just to put it out there. higher mAh rating also help with higher amp draw so if I was gonna try and go with a different lipo route Id probably try to find one with both high mah and higher C rating but I really dont think its the battery...
 
The lipos that the OP are using are theoretically capable of putting out 77A continuous current which is why i dont think its the lipos.
 
///////////////////////
 
Last edited:
thery and actual hands on FACTS are gonna be different . presa Maxamps this is a what 24" boat.. so every grams will increase amp draw on that battery causing more heat and less run time.
 
thery and actual hands on FACTS are gonna be different . presa Maxamps this is a what 24" boat.. so every grams will increase amp draw on that battery causing more heat and less run time.
This is also true. I wonder just how much it would affect it though. I mean would the increase in mah outweigh the extra weight in terms of amperage draw? Things that make ya go "hmmmmmmmmmmm" lol
 
This is also true. I wonder just how much it would affect it though. I mean would the increase in mah outweigh the extra weight in terms of amperage draw? Things that make ya go "hmmmmmmmmmmm" lol
dint make me go hmm. as I've been in that boat. when your a hardcore racer and go to events with rules you learn how much more amp (mah is used in that 6 minute race)
 
Ok but were not trying to go for longer run times here, were trying to make sure the batt can handle the amp draw that is being asked of it. Either way though the bigger question to me is...Is he hitting LVC or is he hitting a thermal cutoff on the ESC?
 
id say esc after reading op updated info. esc needs to be replaced
 
Thankyou for your input on this, I am learning and really appreciate your input, yep the ESC is a 30A (w/bec), so maybe it is cutting off. I have two batteries, both same as detailed above and are fully charged. After about three minutes of run time the boat stops dead, when pressing accelerator nothing happens, but every ten seconds or so the boat will move but for only a split second then go dead again for another ten seconds, so have to creep it back to shore. I then replace the battery with the second one and it goes again all fine till above repeats again after a few minutes. I was wondering if water is not circulating through the pipes enough and could be overheating, but that would not explain it running fine after replacing the battery. as you say, maybe I should go back to manufacturer to see what they have to say.
 
Yeah, What your describing does sound like LVC since a fresh battery will make it run again right away. Something doesn't seem right though. I would think it would be designed to last longer than 3 minute run times. It would be helpful to know what the temps are on the motor, esc, and lipo after a 3 minute run.

Yeah, at this point Id start asking questions of the manufacturer and see what they say. They should know whats typical for the kit and what isnt.
 
Back
Top