Revorunner
RCTalk Member
I've had problems with the stock clutch on the 3.3 the end of the spring around the clutch shoes keeps breaking I was wondering what the advantages a 3 shoe clutch and how durable are they
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What are the advantages of a 3 shoe clutch?
- Thread starter Revorunner
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big jilm
RCTalk Talkaholic
tagging along..I had the same question.
I keep blowing my spring but I think it's due to the slipper being too tight...
I keep blowing my spring but I think it's due to the slipper being too tight...
@Revorunner Clutch shoe springs really don't relate to a slipper at all. It's just a weak design that when constantly heated/cooled causes the spring to get weak and break.
When I used to install my spring, I made sure the joint wasn't right on a crack, but somewhere in the trough of one of the shoes. They seem to hold up better that way.
If you get a 3-shoe, some still use the wrap around spring, so you won't be avoiding the problem. But, if you get a 3-shoe that has a spring for each shoe, then you shouldn't have the same problem.
Personally, I ditched the traxxas bell/flywheel in favor of an 1/8 scale setup. However, to do so, you have to move the trans forward about 1/4 inch and put an extender on your crankshaft. The 1/8 scale setup is about 1/4" thicker (due to the wider shoes and bit thicker flywheel) than what's on the revo in stock form. Well worth the effort in my opinion though. Ran a HPI savage flywheel/3-shoe teflon clutch for a few years with absolutely no problems. Also made it hook up far better than stock. Got a lot more power to the ground. The wider shoes making more contact on the wider bell really kept slip to a minimum and helped keep CB heat down considerably.
Was pretty much a necessity when I installed the OS18TM as it just made the stock clutch heat up and slip really bad. I'd assume the 3.3 would do the same since the power is very similar.
I ran OFNA 1/8 scale hardened bells that were vented as well to help with heat with the 1/8 setup.
When I used to install my spring, I made sure the joint wasn't right on a crack, but somewhere in the trough of one of the shoes. They seem to hold up better that way.
If you get a 3-shoe, some still use the wrap around spring, so you won't be avoiding the problem. But, if you get a 3-shoe that has a spring for each shoe, then you shouldn't have the same problem.
Personally, I ditched the traxxas bell/flywheel in favor of an 1/8 scale setup. However, to do so, you have to move the trans forward about 1/4 inch and put an extender on your crankshaft. The 1/8 scale setup is about 1/4" thicker (due to the wider shoes and bit thicker flywheel) than what's on the revo in stock form. Well worth the effort in my opinion though. Ran a HPI savage flywheel/3-shoe teflon clutch for a few years with absolutely no problems. Also made it hook up far better than stock. Got a lot more power to the ground. The wider shoes making more contact on the wider bell really kept slip to a minimum and helped keep CB heat down considerably.
Was pretty much a necessity when I installed the OS18TM as it just made the stock clutch heat up and slip really bad. I'd assume the 3.3 would do the same since the power is very similar.
I ran OFNA 1/8 scale hardened bells that were vented as well to help with heat with the 1/8 setup.
LBSinGTX
RCTalk Talkaholic
I have the M2C 3 shoe setup on my sirio and i am still very happy with it. I think i use the hard shoe on .95 springs and no noticeable wear and no noticeable slip yet. Probably between 1-2 gallons. I don't race it though.
olds97_lss how did you move your tranny forward? Change the location of the holes on the tranny case or on the chassis? I was between the M2C and going 1/8th. I still want to try the 1/8th setup when the M2C finally wears out.
olds97_lss how did you move your tranny forward? Change the location of the holes on the tranny case or on the chassis? I was between the M2C and going 1/8th. I still want to try the 1/8th setup when the M2C finally wears out.
Elongated the holes in the chassis and ground a bit off the chassis near the brakes to allow it to slide forward. Then I drilled two pilot holes through the chassis and transmission mount flanges to run 3mm bolts through with nuts on the top side. This keyed the trans to the chassis to keep it from sliding. The 4 stock trans bolts were there for support, but I wanted the extra security of the extra bolts.
You can kind of see what I'm talking about here:
This shows the distance I had to move it:
You can kind of see what I'm talking about here:
This shows the distance I had to move it:
LBSinGTX
RCTalk Talkaholic
Yeah, I totally see what you mean. Good explanation and pictures. I have a similar looking mis-alignment with my CB/spur I've been trying to fix since putting in a sirio. I might have to try that out. Did you need any special tools for that other than a drill and a dremel?
Nope. But, I did find it best to do things very slowly with the dremel. Once I had everything lined up with the engine installed, I tightened down the 4 stock trans bolts, then drilled the pilot holes for the key bolts through the chassis and trans case to avoid getting things out of line.
Trying to gently elongate holes in aluminum isn't the most easy task when you need to keep them nice and straight. If you don't, then the gear mesh won't work well and you will be eating up spurs.
Seems like a lot of effort, but after doing it, I never pulled the engine due to a clutch problem again.
Trying to gently elongate holes in aluminum isn't the most easy task when you need to keep them nice and straight. If you don't, then the gear mesh won't work well and you will be eating up spurs.
Seems like a lot of effort, but after doing it, I never pulled the engine due to a clutch problem again.
Runaway Jim
RCTalk Talkaholic
Olds, do you know of think there's an opportunity to move the engine back a bit rather than moving the chassis forward? Maybe with a different engine mount? Or would we still be looking at drilling and grinding to make a different engine mount fit in place?
Don't know. Didn't even give it a second thought as I knew I was going to end up with a BB in mine and it needed all the room I could spare behind it.
I'm sure you could move the engine back a hair, but it will put your starter housing right against your rear arm on full compression. It's pretty close already if I remember correctly. So, you actually may not be able to move the engine back.
I'm sure you could move the engine back a hair, but it will put your starter housing right against your rear arm on full compression. It's pretty close already if I remember correctly. So, you actually may not be able to move the engine back.
weezracen
RCTalk Addict
wow!!! nice!!!!! when my clutch goes I got to do this!
LBSinGTX
RCTalk Talkaholic
Olds97_lss, thanks for the tips on that. I might just put my new dremel bits to work and see how it goes.
Runaway Jim, I have heard the same stuff about moving the engine back a little bit, but I haven't been able to do it. I got the Traxxas big block mount because I heard that one mounts up that way without any other mods. But I got the mount alone outside of the BB kit and it doesn't have anywhere to mount the linkage carb/throttle mix arm. I can't find the BB linkage outside of the BB kit. My setup right now works well enough to keep me from buying a whole BB kit just for that.
Runaway Jim, I have heard the same stuff about moving the engine back a little bit, but I haven't been able to do it. I got the Traxxas big block mount because I heard that one mounts up that way without any other mods. But I got the mount alone outside of the BB kit and it doesn't have anywhere to mount the linkage carb/throttle mix arm. I can't find the BB linkage outside of the BB kit. My setup right now works well enough to keep me from buying a whole BB kit just for that.
Runaway Jim
RCTalk Talkaholic
Thanks for the info on moving the engine back rather than the tranny. I just broke in a new piston and sleeve on my 3.3 so I'll get one more season out of it then change engines. I'll keep this post in mind if I go BB or decide to go with a different clutch set up. It's great info!
LBSinGTX
RCTalk Talkaholic
As soon as I can find the BB linkage for it, or something similar I will try it out and let you know if it moves it back.