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wasp.18 problems again

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MaxiMumST.2002

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You know anything you do is never the right thing i got a new bumper so then the recoil breaks. It annoys the heel out of me dont get me wrong i love this hobby until things go wrong.

Oh lets get back to the questions i got the nnedles on the carb factory setting and it firees right up runs about 5 min overheats wont start till it cools down the temp outside is 50 degrees not that hot out with a wind. I dont know why this happens but it happend to my other engine and i bought this nice wasp engine.

Ad would proline masher 2000 tires be good for my stadium truck with the 18 or will it be hard to move? I just want it to be better for offroading like in my woods i got a track but it is muddy,Sandy.
or should i go for a different tire? any good tires out there that will fit on a 2.2 rim but be bigger or the same size as the mashers?

Thanks Nick
 
I would check for an air leak. What you describe (starting fine then dead till it cools) sounds one of two things

#1 your running too lean. The LSV seems to be set fine (you can idle) Try to richen up the HSV a bit to add some fuel/cooling.

#2 An air leak. Cause the motor to run lean, and quickly overheat and die.

#3 A worn out piston and sleeve.

Do you have a temp gun? You need to figure out at what tempurature it is dying and won't re-start. Ifi it is in the 240-280 range when it won't start or run, then your piston/sleeve is most likely worn out. If 'ts above 300 when it dies out, your just running too lean.

For a nitro engine to run, and make power, it needs to be in the 220-290 range at least. The piston and sleeve expand and make a nice fit at those temps, any thing hotter than that and the sleeve over expands, making a loose fit and it dies.

If your piston and sleeve are worn out, it will start and run fine when cold (no expansion tight fit), but when it gets to expansion/running temp the piston is so worn, that it is no longer a tight fit at operating temp.
 
yeah sometimes even with a NIB engine, you need to seal up the Backplate "if its a non pullstart motor" and make sure theres not any leaks, Your engine doesn't have to be a old worn down engine to leak. Just letting ya know
 
I would try what skyline said before you go out again. Seal the carb neck and backplate. Make sure the head bolts are tight as well. Back them all out and re-tighten them. Make sure you header isn't leaking either. Also, replace your pressure and fuel lines. If you have leak in a line, it would cause these types of issues.

As for bigger tires on a ST, I wouldn't recomend it. I guess it would depend on what ST you have. I tried those tires on my losi xxx-nt and kept breaking the rear arms and axle carriers. The bigger tires created too much leverage when jumping.
 
This may sound wierd, but even Team Orion admits that their .18 Wasp series engines are prone to leaks. The #1 place that these engines leak at is the carb neck. So seal up that carb, as olds97_lss said.
 
i have had absolutely no problems with my wasp .18.. I'm on my 8th tank i think and I'm still running it rich. great engine in my opinion. no problems. 3 turns out on the HSN, and the LSN is turned out about 1/4 of a turnso its extra rich. good luck

later
 
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