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Build Thread Warby's TRX Nitro Sport, spare parts build

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Steering servo, saver and turnbuckles in place.

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Throttle/brake servo and linkages in place.
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Of course it'll all need adjusting once I have a RX fitted and power.
 
Steering servo, saver and turnbuckles in place.

View attachment 237911

Throttle/brake servo and linkages in place.
View attachment 237912

Of course it'll all need adjusting once I have a RX fitted and power.
Are you sure that camber link mounts on the front of that boss on the spindle? It would put things in a bind like that I would think.
 
Are you sure that camber link mounts on the front of that boss on the spindle? It would put things in a bind like that I would think.
I'll check it out tomorrow.
 
Are you sure that camber link mounts on the front of that boss on the spindle? It would put things in a bind like that I would think.

According to the exploded view, you have it correct. But dayum it looks weird.
View attachment 237980
It's all good. No binding. I think the angle of the photo made it look weird. No issues through full suspension travel.

Here's a straight, side-on photo.
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👆THIS👆 Is the begining of a VERY slippery slope!!! 🤣😍
I have to admit, I'm so tempted to replace all the rusty screw with new ones. It's taking a lot of focus and discipline, to not order new ones. 😥
I can't stand to see rusty parts. It's making me ....
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I have to admit, I'm so tempted to replace all the rusty screw with new ones. It's taking a lot of focus and discipline, to not order new ones. 😥
I can't stand to see rusty parts. It's making me ....
View attachment 238034
This is the build I would absolutely ditch all those crappy screws and put some black oxide ones in there.

Much better for maintenance too 😉
 
This is the build I would absolutely ditch all those crappy screws and put some black oxide ones in there.

Much better for maintenance too 😉
I find the black oxide ones rust really quickly. From new. I replaced all the rusty ones on my K6s and they are rusted again already. Haven't even run it much.

But yes they are better beside the rust.
 
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I find the black oxide ones rust really quickly. From new. I replaced all the rusty ones on my K6s and they are rusted again already. Haven't even run it much.

But yes they are better beside the rust.
Just shoot some silicone spray on them. Or even regular old WD40. But your weather there may be much harder on them than what we see here. I just can't stand how soft stainless it. And I find when used with aluminum, the corrosion between the two metals is actually worse with stainless sometimes.
 
Just shoot some silicone spray on them
I do that sometimes, when I remember.

But your weather there may be much harder on them than what we see here.
Yes and it gets damp in the shed. It's not insulated.

I just can't stand how soft stainless it. And I find when used with aluminum, the corrosion between the two metals is actually worse with stainless sometimes.
Stainless steel in aluminium is a bad combination.
 
Yes and it gets damp in the shed. It's not insulated.
Oh, that makes a difference. You should be ashamed of yourself! Send your RC cars to me. I'll store them in a nice comfy climate controlled environment 😉😁
 
Oh, that makes a difference. You should be ashamed of yourself! Send your RC cars to me. I'll store them in a nice comfy climate controlled environment 😉😁
If I had the space, I would store them inside. I would love a hobby room / mancave. The sheds also dusty and too hot in the summer.
 
This is the build I would absolutely ditch all those crappy screws and put some black oxide ones in there.

Much better for maintenance too 😉
I plan to hit mine with silicone spray too.


https://www.crcindustries.com/heavy-duty-silicone-lubricant/

The temps here ate extreme. Even when just getting loaded from the house to car, car to track.
Humidity is no better.

I don't hate phillips heads but when they go bad, they are a special PITA usually.

So far I like using the 12.9 hex with MIP drivers.
When I used L wrenches, worn out drivers and low quality hardware, hex were terriblie!!!
The smaller the hex, the more likely I was to strip them.
Affordable, accessible, high quality micro tools really changed my mind.
It started off badly...Pinion hexes were bad with Tamiya, better with Kyosho, Robinson.... a lot has changed for the better. 😁

I like how the hexes look more than the phillips.

The philips are classic and belong on some restos too so I get it. 😎
 
I plan to hit mine with silicone spray too.


https://www.crcindustries.com/heavy-duty-silicone-lubricant/

The temps here ate extreme. Even when just getting loaded from the house to car, car to track.
Humidity is no better.

I don't hate phillips heads but when they go bad, they are a special PITA usually.

So far I like using the 12.9 hex with MIP drivers.
When I used L wrenches, worn out drivers and low quality hardware, hex were terriblie!!!
The smaller the hex, the more likely I was to strip them.
Affordable, accessible, high quality micro tools really changed my mind.
It started off badly...Pinion hexes were bad with Tamiya, better with Kyosho, Robinson.... a lot has changed for the better. 😁

I like how the hexes look more than the phillips.

The philips are classic and belong on some restos too so I get it. 😎
The phillips are mostly a pain for people that don't know there are more than one type of phillips socket. There are actually 3 styles. Phillips, Prince Reed, and the proprietary Japanese sockets that are a totally different profile than the other two. They all have 4 blades, but the blade with and profile vary. What seems like it fits actually doesn't, which leads to stripped screw heads. They do have a place on the vintage stuff. But I swap them out wherever I can, just because I have stripped way more phillips than any other screw type. That, and they're just ugly 🤪
 
I made a start on the engine the other day, even though I'm still waiting on parts. I may have mentioned this already, but I'm using the engine remove from my og Nitro Sport. I've had it running but I'm going to rebuild it anyway.

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So took it apart and started cleaning. Sorry I forgot to take photos before cleaning. It was very dirty.
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It took me quite a while to clean the cooling head.
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Bearings were in tight. Cooked it @ 200°C and the bearings pretty much fell out. (Please ignore the filthy oven).
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As you can see, the bearings were very dirty. This is after they soaked in WD40 for 2 days, then cleaning and heated.
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More cleaning once the bearings were removed. The housing cleaning up better than I expected.
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Reheated housing to 200°C again to installed new bearings and crankshaft. With the housing heated, the bearings only needed a little push by hand to install and then oiled to help cool.
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Installed flywheel
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