Violator Brake Setup and Fail Safe Help

[Ericke1]

Hello Folks. I recently purchased a 9.5 violator, broke in the engine (2 tanks running, 1/2 tank 1/2 throttle) and installed a fail safe. After I ran the car at full throttle, (THIS BUGGY ROCKS!) I noticed more fade on the brakes. The car just didnt brake that well. Moreover, I fail safe, which I previously installed and was working, now works in the opposite direction (when I turn of the radio, instead of applying the brakes, it applies the throttle).

Can someone advise me how to set the brakes up properly, I put in some fuel tubing which works better but the buggy doesn't stop very well. What should I do?

Finally, I noticed the steering is much more responsive since I changed the stock steering servo to a Hitech 645 MG but at high speeds it needs a lot of diameter to turn-should I upgrade the steering servo even more?

I can post a picture of my brake setup if needed.

 

[robriguez]

Heres some kick ass setup info for just about all buggies: https://www.rcnitrotalk.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=17038

Steering: Check to make sure your radio isnt set for proportional steering. Some radios let you "turn down" the amount of steering. Set this back at 100% if you have such an adjustment. Also, I'm not sure how adjustable your front end is on the 9.5 but 1-2 degrees of toe-OUT will help alot.

Failsafe: most failsafes have some sort of set button on them. To set your failsafe apply full brake then press the button. Different ones say to press and hold some say look for a blinking light. You'll need to look though the directions that came with yours.

Brakes: Just as a good powerful servo made a difference with your steering so will it make a difference with your braking. More tourque means it can squeez the brake rotors with more force. Also, you can adjust the linkages so that the brake pads are just barely touching the rotors at neutral throttle position. Push the buggy back and forth on the ground to test the drag. You should not feel any drag at neutral.

 

[Ericke1]

Thanks

Hey Rob,

Thanks, maybe I should use the 645 Servo on the throttle and another one for the brakes-a stronger one. I'll check the toe or perhaps you can see it for me this weekend.

I have the Ofna Micro Fail Safe. Ill press the set button when applying the brakes and see if it works.

ANy advice on stock suspension, what is the optimal setting for firmness and ride?

 

[robriguez]

The 645 is MORE than enough to work as a throttle/brake servo. All I was saying is that uprading was an option not a necessity. I'm currently running 49oz Throttle/Brake and 90oz Steering and it works fine for my needs as I'm not racing yet.

Racing setups vary but so far I like hard springs all around with 35wt up front and 40-45wt in the rear. I set my ride height so that the front and rear arms are just lower than the chassis. Maybe 15 degree angle to give me a bit more ride height.

 

[Krautwagen]

Originally posted by robriguez
Racing setups vary but so far I like hard springs all around with 35wt up front and 40-45wt in the rear. I set my ride height so that the front and rear arms are just lower than the chassis. Maybe 15 degree angle to give me a bit more ride height. [/B]

Sounds good to me. I'm running white (hardest) springs and 40wt all around. Seems to be over-damped a bit. Next rebuild I'm going with 35wt.

You do not need a high torque throttle brake servo. Fade is part of the game with stock brakes, but your case seems bad. Theya re fadign because they are generating heat. Check to make sure that the brakes are not being applied while at idle or on the throttle. The bolts that secure the calipers/pads could be either too tight or too loose, they should have just bit of slop. Too tight is a no brainer, the car wont coast at idle.

The larger turning radius at high speed is because of understeer. This can be fixed with proper suspension setup and tuning your diffs with silicone fluid. I used 10k in the center (pretty good, maybe go a bit higher) and just did the rear diff with 10k (was plannign on heavier in the center, but 10k in the rear is way to high, it can powerslide on grass). F to R, I'd suggest 10-15-5.

 

[dougc]

I found it better if you add a spring on that brake thing, you said you used fuel tub but I am assumeing that you meant on the brakes its self If you take the linkage and add a spring it will be better. There is nothing there so you get no brake or full brake.... with the spring you get no brake, some brake .... you get the idea.

 

[Ericke1]

Fixed the Brakes

That worked, thanks. While adjusting the servo screw though, I accidently stripped the head of the screw, how do I get it off now?