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Tires and pinion

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Messages
675
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Points
250
Location
Parker, Colorado
RC Driving Style
  1. Bashing
  2. Crawling
Hey rct! Got the rb10 up and running, using B5 arms made of a harder plastic compound and new pins. Also got new tires. Took it out and I was wondering what some good tires would be for surfaces with less traction, like sand. What do you guys run on your buggys and for what types of surfaces? Also when I was running, my pinion had slipped off because the bolt loosened. This has happened a few times now and it's not gonna be good if I gotta put it back on every hour. What can i do to fix this?
 
Also when I was running, my pinion had slipped off because the bolt loosened. This has happened a few times now and it's not gonna be good if I gotta put it back on every hour. What can i do to fix this?
Clean the pinion/bore really good. Clean off the motor shaft really good and the threads of the grub screw. Use blue loctite/ thread locker, let dry for a day.
If it doesn't work, worse case you can drill/punch a small dimple in the motor shaft so the grub screw has somewhere to seat better on the shaft.
 
How deep is the sand? If its like beach sand then some paddle tires will work best. Proline holeshots are my 1/10 go to for a loose/gritty dirty track. Our 1/8 track is right next to a river that floods once or twice a year so the track dirt has a lot of sand mixed into it. We mostly run different variations of pin tires.

Blue loctite on the shaft hole and on the pinion screw threads should lock it on.
 
what some good tires would be for surfaces with less traction, like sand. What do you guys run on your buggys and for what types of surfaces?
With my buggies when I just wanna run them in the alley to get them driven since I can't go to the track often I usually just use the old bar/web style tires I have. But running in sand, you'd want like a paddle tire
 
iv had good luck with Proline Blockades on my RC10's. haven't tired them on sand. they've been pretty good on loose dirt, hard packed dirt, dusty conditions, asphalt/concrete, and very short grass. tall and/or thick grass forget about it, lots of wheel spin.

as for the pinion, clean threads (use brake or carb cleaner, acetone, something that will get oil off) and use a drop of blue loctite that pinion will never come off.
 
With my buggies when I just wanna run them in the alley to get them driven since I can't go to the track often I usually just use the old bar/web style tires I have. But running in sand, you'd want like a paddle tire
How deep is the sand? If its like beach sand then some paddle tires will work best. Proline holeshots are my 1/10 go to for a loose/gritty dirty track. Our 1/8 track is right next to a river that floods once or twice a year so the track dirt has a lot of sand mixed into it. We mostly run different variations of pin tires.

Blue loctite on the shaft hole and on the pinion screw threads should lock it on.
It's more of a loose route than full sand. There are a few parts that are like beach sand, but mostly hard terrain with a light layer of sand.

Clean the pinion/bore really good. Clean off the motor shaft really good and the threads of the grub screw. Use blue loctite/ thread locker, let dry for a day.
If it doesn't work, worse case you can drill/punch a small dimple in the motor shaft so the grub screw has somewhere to seat better on the shaft.
Yea the whole thing doesn't have any loctite, thats probably an issue. Ill see if I have any bolt's with loctite or if I can get my grubby little hands on some. It's all fresh and clean, brand new pinion.
 
Thread lock should always be used when a screw is inserted into any metal part. Now you can't blame the company for broken parts because they neglected to fix a proofreading error in the manual (not mine, but a true story 😆). Why it's important to clean metal threaded parts: This shop towel was used (with degreaser) to clean screw threads before applying threadlocker...
IMG_20251116_134540776.webp

Don't forget to clean both sets of metal threads.

I know some larger scale "basher" platforms suggest threadlocker on a pinion gear set screw, but a lot of manuals will not. I never used to until the coming of brushless motors and LiPo batteries allowing longer run times. Nowadays, blue (medium strength) threadlocker is always used on my 1/10th scale pinion gear set screws. 🤫 I'll even use high strength red/orange stuff on known 1/8th scale culprits 🫣. If in a racing situation and changing pinion gear(s) for whatever reason, you are not going to have time to let threadlocker cure. It will be your responsibility to check things between rounds... quality machined pieces and🤞🤞.
 
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