Vintage Trans-am racing.

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Here is is in all its drift car glory. Have the kit tires on it so I can do all the tuning. The VTA requires specific tires.

The body is a 68 mustang from Protofrorm. I don’t want a body with a bolt on nose piece. I crash a lot on the tight corse .

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Thats cool, let me know how that Sukura works out for ya. I just bought an MST RMX 2.0 and one of these days I want a high end Yokomo drift kit
 
I got over to the track today just to get a shake down run. Basically slow. I put in the recommended 28 tooth pinion gear and it was going around the track with unbelievable control but at least one second slow. I ran like a dozen 5.013 laps on a row. It was going around the shortest part of the track and turning with super consistent rate. But no tire prep. And again super slow. I’m gonna measure the tire speed later then change pinion to a 30 or 31 and start checking motor temps. With the 28 tooth I was full throttle the whole track for five minutes and the motor was ice cold. Good break in for the diff.
 
Maybe grab a set of pinions - I'd be looking for FDR around 4. That would suggest a 38 - 39 tooth pinion (with stock spur)
 
Thanks I have to go to the hobby shop tonight I’ll pick them up. Would not ShopRite me if I needed ten teeth. It was that slow. I will check to see how much movement I get in the motor.
 
Put the old optical tachometer on the back tire. It was spinning 2027 rpm with a battery pack that had just run about ten minutes. Switch from a 28 tooth pinion to a 33 tooth and the rpm jumped to 2385. After charging the battery the rpm jumped to 2451. It looks like that’s the biggest gear that is going to fit. And if the motor will push it without over heating I’m good. 18% increase in wheel speed is a lot.
 
Got to the track with the new 33 tooth pinion. Definitely faster but now it’s a little slick. Took a few laps on the oval track to settle down the tires and I was able to run a 4.91 lap . I was at 5.01 and this is going in the right direction. Still feels slow but that’s because I’m on the oval track not the road track.
I got a 77 tooth Kimbro spur gear but it requires some minor modifications to fit. I also picked up much softer springs to help with traction. The tire soup should also help and from here it is just a sway bar adjustment.
 
I think I’m ready to race this thing. I went from 83/28 gearing to 77/33 and from a rear tire speed of 2000 to a rear tire speed of 2690 rpm. The car is pretty stable but with each speed increase it felt loose. I changed the rear springs to the softest springs the offer and one step softer in the front.
Ride height is 4.5 mm and it scales out pretty well with 10g weight on the left rear corner.
Next is to race it for the first time and use traction compound for the first time. Gonna be a wild Friday night

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Playing with the tires. I buffed them off when I took them out of the package and then drove on the oval track for about half hour max. The tires will need compound to be consistent on the carpet .

I tried putting on some dope but it turned black and dirty so I used some tire wash to clean off the old tire compound from the carpet it picked up at the track today. Come off black and slimy like paint. Now the tire is smooth and clean and just tacky enough to shred paper towel. They feel not sticky but grippy.

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VTA is where older touring cars go to die, no seriously though at our track hardley anybody runs a newer kit, even tc4s still are in use in vta. I use a tamiya ta08 pro and working on a tc4 for a spare or loaner. Great class skill based, prefer the mustang body my self.
 
That’s what was told. But I could not figure out what would work. And this was 100 bucks so I figured I could jump in with a drift car and tune it to be competitive on my smaller road track. On the bigger track I’ll probably run touring car anyhow. Then in a couple years I’ll upgrade and build a better VTA.
 
The Sakura kit for sure is the best bang for the buck, not the class to spend 700-1000 on a new high end touring car, though some do. Not a big selection to choose from though, often times better off with an older chassis better car cheaper price.
 
Ya know how it is. There are a couple guys that have brand new Shoemakers and Yokomo cars and are scorching around the track. It kinda puts people off. I like a challenge but some newer racers feel like they can’t compete so they quit and the track dies. It’s such a problem that they want to break it into box stock, sportsman and pro classes. But that dilutes the group and makes two more added classes to run and we end up racing till 1:00 am. Then people don’t want to race.
 
First VTA race went pretty well. There is a lot of tire stuff. The break in and tire prep solution makes a big difference. I had very slick feeling tired because when the tires soften and the foam absorbs the tire prep stuff they balloon out and provide traction at angles.
S would turn and sometimes it would turn and sometimes it would really turn and while trying to avoid the outside I would hit the inside wall. And hitting the end of a pvc pipe broke the front control arm. Lucky for me the other racers use the same car and the arms are the same right and left so he gave me an arm so I could make the main event.
Cheap quick fix I’ll pick up some arms.
Then see what I can break in two weeks.

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There's still a couple shaft drive. Tamiya TB EVO 8, Kyosho Fazer MK2 come to mind. Shame about Associated completely bailing on tc
I am guessing all of the on road cars have belt drive systems which is cool. The only off road car that has belt drive now is the Schumacher one which they just discontinued. Schumacher cat l1 evo. I watched this one guy that did a belt drive conversion on a Xmaxx but it didn't work. Belt kept slipping.
I actually found a huge bargain and I bought an AE sc10 4x4 belt driven for 25 bucks. sadly, the front differential blew on me so now it's only a 2wd SCT.
200mm is width, not lenght
I think he knows what he is talking about.
 
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