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used duratrax tq help starting

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shaun1979

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I just bought a used duratrax tq on ebay. It is my first rc nitro so please don't laugh. It has the 3.5 engine and a rotostart. I've tried adjusting the needles but it will still not start. It turns over and makes noise. I got it started once but it died shortly thereafter. It gets gas to the carb and the glow plug and ignitor are new. please help!!
 
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test your glow plug

put the glow plug in the igntor and see if it glow red if it doesn't then one of the 2 are bad


also try starting it and then pull the plug and if the plug is full of liquid that means the engine is flooded so take it out and trun the engine over to get the fuel out of it

and then try starting it again and if the same thing happens try leaning out the needles
 
i have done this and the plug and ignitor are new and I have tried a couple more at the hobby store, however, when I bought it in it was very flooded, we drained it and still nothin'

I have been thickining the needle from factory specs but am I not going in the right direction?(ie do I need to lean it instead)

also: I am using a power drill(for the rotostart), is this ok?

thanks for your response
 
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yes i believe that the drill is fine i wouldnt know what else to use but yes u should be leaning it out but not alot at a time


also another thing to check is to make sure ur carb is open enough
 
First check your carb opening at idle position. It should be about 1/16" open.
Put the nose of the truck against something firm so it can't get away from you. If you have an EZ start, keep it running while moving your LSN one way or the other till it starts to run.
Adjust your LSN and idle screw till it idles well and will run up to half throttle. (get it to running temp before you finalize any settings) When it idles properly, throttle it to half and see if it stalls or bogs down. If it stalls, it's too lean. If it bogs, it's too rich. Check your temp while it's idling, and make sure it doesn't go over 210 or so.
Now go to full throttle. This is when you adjust your HSN. Same thing. If it bogs, it's too rich, stalls, it's too lean.
When it seems to be running good, pinch the fuel line. It should speed up slightly and then stall within 3 - 4 seconds. If it stops quickly, your LSN is too lean. If it takes longer, the LSN is too rich.
Drive it for a while and then take a temp check to make sure it's at the proper temp. If it's too hot, richen the HSN.
You will have to make small adjustments on the HSN almost daily to compensate for outside temperature and humidity.

By the way, the factory settings are for break in, or a starting point if you really messed things up. Once an engine is broken in, don't expect it to run right by going to those settings.
 
How much use did it have on it when you got it?? Did the truck look like it had been taken care of? These are just a few things I ask when ever anyone ask how to get there "used" engine stated. If it is in good condition then follow the above instructions. If it looks like it has been run through the mill then it may be more then a tunning issue. I have 2 Duratraxx .21's and they are very easy to tune and start. Good luck.
 
how do I adjust the carb?
...and the hobby store guy says it may have a compression problem is this a difficult problem and what are the signs?
 
the needles you have been turning are attached to the carb, and therefore adjust it.
but if your talking about your idle stop its on the side of the carb,and as you turn it you should be able to see your carb move. and yes compression is a diffucult problem and wil require a new piston and sleve, engine or getting your sleve "pinched". dont sweat it though you dont nececarily have a compresion problem. if the fly wheel moves real easy by hand then you may have a prob. but even with bad compression your eng should still run. not well but it should run.
 
it is a compression problem: waiting for a new piston liner in the mail

it only runs for a minute and then dies
 
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