Tyre glues thread

[Warby]

I did a quick experiment with two glues I had on hand. BSI IC-2000 and Zap thin CA PT-09. Two different price points and I know IC-2000 is actually designed for rubber but they are the two I had.

So with new SCT tyres and rims I did one tyre with Zap and the other three with the BSI glue.

I didn't even get through one 3s 6000mah battery in the Senton 3s. The tyre with the Zap glue had become unglued. I had even used a generous amount. No sign of separation on any of the BSI IC-2000 tyres. Not even the slightest.

Not a thorough experiment I know but I think the results speak for themselves.

What's your experience with tyre glues? What works for you? What do you use?

 

[Littlemotor]

JConcepts. I cannot remember the last time I ever had a glue joint separate either.. I ONLY use actual tire manufacturer glue, and it definitely plays a strong role (see what I did there?), however for anything 1/10 and up (and not talking about crawlers what so ever) off-road, cleaning and prep work is absolutely essential.

As much as I cannot stand Horizon, I do have a few bottles of Proline, and AKA on hand as well. For me, I see Zap CA, and I think balsa airplanes..

 

[tntpoof]

Before 1976 I used whatever ca glue I could find.Then one of my favorite stores had a going outa business sale Ben Franklin..I went in and seen this Elephant super glue .I purchased a Fross of it for $3 . sure its only a 2 gram bottle but I got 144. still have 3/4 of a 5 gallon bucket full so it will out last me...It had a picture of an elephant in a sling being hoisted off the ground..I also have a bottle of BSI tire glue the black stuff ..I use insta cure with that stuff.Never had a tire fail with either glues.And Iam a High speed freak..But I love a have many rcs..

Tire prep and rim prep is essential in great hold
I use 00 steel wool on both use a popsicle stick wrapped with wool on rim slot(always wait 24 hours before using)

 

[WickedFog]

I've always just used regular old CA. Never had any problems. As said, just make sure everything is clean. I always clean everything with alcohol before I glue. And I use the fine tips on my glue to keep the glue lines nice and hidden.

 

[RustyUs]

How old were both bottles of glue?
Your storage practices?
Does it matter?

 

[9x19]

I've always just used regular old CA. Never had any problems. As said, just make sure everything is clean. I always clean everything with alcohol before I glue. And I use the fine tips on my glue to keep the glue lines nice and hidden.

I've had good luck with CA glue as well.

 

[RustyUs]

bSi is my go-to CA glue... blue label Insta-Cure, or orange label Ultra-Cure.
I'll use other stuff

in a pinch.

 

[Doom!]

I had the same problem with CA glue, I think the rims have a similar compound of plastic as the CA glue bottle so it doesn't stick very well.

This stuff works hella good though. Link to Amazon

 

[Greywolf74]

I've always just used regular old CA. Never had any problems. As said, just make sure everything is clean. I always clean everything with alcohol before I glue. And I use the fine tips on my glue to keep the glue lines nice and hidden.

This!

I tried the BSI glue once and I had a hard time getting it out of the bottle. I suspected that the bottle may have been old but I'm not sure what the consistancy is supposed to be on it. What came out of it was very thick, like I was going to have to spread it on with something. Since regular CA glue always worked for me, I never bothered to check the BSI stuff again after that to see if I just had a bad bottle or what. Been using CA ever since.

I had the same problem with CA glue, I think the rims have a similar compound of plastic as the CA glue bottle so it doesn't stick very well.

This stuff works hella good though. Link to Amazon

View attachment 199432

Ima try this!

 

[RustyUs]

This!

I tired the BSI glue once and I had a hard time getting it out of the bottle. I suspected that the bottle may have been old but I'm not sure what the consistancy is supposed to be on it. What came out of it was very thick, like I was going to have to spread it on with something. Since regular CA glue always worked for me, I never bothered to check the BSI stuff again after that to see if I just had a bad bottle or what. Been using CA ever since.


Ima try this!

I like CA glue that is thin... consistency like water, or just a bit thicker. I'll use medium consistency CA if I have to, like Loctite Professional Liquid, but doesn't wick into the cracks fast enough for me. If you got CA glue in a bottle, and was so thick that it needed spreading device, your suspicions were probably right... old product.

 

[WickedFog]

I like CA glue that is thin... consistency like water, or just a bit thicker. I'll use medium consistency CA if I have to, like Loctite Professional Liquid, but doesn't wick into the cracks fast enough for me. If you got CA glue in a bottle, and was so thick that it needed spreading device, your suspicions were probably right... old product.

Unless it was a gel CA.

 

[ahr43]

JConcepts medium tire glue for me. Also use the JC medium tips for application. Store the glue in its re-sealable bag in the refrigerator between uses.

Used the bSi on my 1/8 nitro bug back in the day, '03-'05. Back before specialty CA tire glues came on the market. bSi never held up for me on the 1/8 nitro. Might be o.k. for 1/10 electric though. -AC

 

[Greywolf74]

Unless it was a gel CA.

It was thicker than gel CA.

 

[Doom!]

It was thicker than gel CA.

When BSI CA gets old or contaminated it thickens up. I stopped buying the bigger bottles because of that. I only buy small bottles now because it was getting to where half of it was unusable anyway.

 

[bill_delong]

This is a very complicated topic with tons of variables beyond the brand of glue used.

That said, of the dozen or so brands of glues I have used over the years, I have had the best luck with LOCTITE-406 which is specifically designed to bond rubber to plastic:

https://next.henkel-adhesives.com/u...tral-pdp.html/loctite-406/BP000000153530.html

*** I prefer buying LOCTITE 406 from Amazon for a fraction of the price:

It's also worth noting that LOCTITE offers a primer SF770 which drastically improves the quality/strength of the bond.

Here's what I do to prep my tires to get maximum strength:

1) Use a cylinder shaped stone bit on my dremel to scuff the beads of the tire/wheel
2) Use alcohol swab to clean beads of tire/wheel (similar to SF770 primer)
3) Use silicone tire bands to ensure optimal bonding
4) Apply CA, pull back and press to ensure CA has covered entire surface area of the bead
5) Apply a thin bead and/or drag glue tip along the perimeter of the bead for extra glue to improve bonding strength
* I use 20ga tips for 406 (linked above) and 18ga tips for thicker LOCTITE Professional CA which is less expensive but not as strong as 406


It takes careful practice to apply the perfect amount of glue, too much glue forcing you to wipe away excess may cause you to weaken the bead strength and not enough glue with gaps will be problematic.

Inspect the beads after every run to see if the tire is separating at the bead, if so, then clean apply fresh glue.

 

[WickedFog]

This is a very complicated topic with tons of variables beyond the brand of glue used.

That said, of the dozen or so brands of glues I have used over the years, I have had the best luck with LOCTITE-406 which is specifically designed to bond rubber to plastic:

https://next.henkel-adhesives.com/u...tral-pdp.html/loctite-406/BP000000153530.html

View attachment 199549

It's also worth noting that LOCTITE offers a primer SF770 which drastically improves the quality/strength of the bond.

Here's what I do to prep my tires to get maximum strength:

1) Use a cylinder shaped stone bit on my dremel to scuff the beads of the tire/wheel
2) Use alcohol swab to clean beads of tire/wheel (similar to SF770 primer)
3) Use silicone tire bands to ensure optimal bonding
4) Apply CA, pull back and press to ensure CA has covered entire surface area of the bead
5) Apply a thin bead and/or drag glue tip along the perimeter of the bead for extra glue to improve bonding strength
* I use 20ga tips for 406 (linked above) and 18ga tips for thicker LOCTITE Professional CA which is less expensive but not as strong as 406


It takes careful practice to apply the perfect amount of glue, too much glue forcing you to wipe away excess may cause you to weaken the bead strength and not enough glue with gaps will be problematic.

Inspect the beads after every run to see if the tire is separating at the bead, if so, then clean apply fresh glue.

You can buy Loctite 406 off Amazon in 20g bottles for $8.99. The place you linked is really proud of that bottle for $30

 

[bill_delong]

You can buy Loctite 406 off Amazon in 20g bottles for $8.99. The place you linked is really proud of that bottle for $30

Thanks, I've updated the post, I had provided links to Amazon across the board for everything else as my preferred source but didn't originally link to 406 for purchase, I wanted to reference the OEM page for specifics about the product itself and why it's better than most other CA's out there for the specific use of bonding rubber to plastic.

 

[WickedFog]

Thanks, I've updated the post, I had provided links to Amazon across the board for everything else as my preferred source but didn't originally link to 406 for purchase, I wanted to reference the OEM page for specifics about the product itself and why it's better than most other CA's out there for the specific use of bonding rubber to plastic.

I think I have used that before, but not sure I have used it for tires. I put some in my cart to try.

One question though, those 20 gauge tips look rather large for CA. I use very fine tips on my CA bottles and can glue tires with no mess. Have you tried anything smaller than 20 gauge? The 23 or even 25 look to be more like I am used to.

 

[Warby]

This is a very complicated topic with tons of variables beyond the brand of glue used.

That said, of the dozen or so brands of glues I have used over the years, I have had the best luck with LOCTITE-406 which is specifically designed to bond rubber to plastic:

https://next.henkel-adhesives.com/u...tral-pdp.html/loctite-406/BP000000153530.html

*** I prefer buying LOCTITE 406 from Amazon for a fraction of the price:

View attachment 199549

It's also worth noting that LOCTITE offers a primer SF770 which drastically improves the quality/strength of the bond.

Here's what I do to prep my tires to get maximum strength:

1) Use a cylinder shaped stone bit on my dremel to scuff the beads of the tire/wheel
2) Use alcohol swab to clean beads of tire/wheel (similar to SF770 primer)
3) Use silicone tire bands to ensure optimal bonding
4) Apply CA, pull back and press to ensure CA has covered entire surface area of the bead
5) Apply a thin bead and/or drag glue tip along the perimeter of the bead for extra glue to improve bonding strength
* I use 20ga tips for 406 (linked above) and 18ga tips for thicker LOCTITE Professional CA which is less expensive but not as strong as 406


It takes careful practice to apply the perfect amount of glue, too much glue forcing you to wipe away excess may cause you to weaken the bead strength and not enough glue with gaps will be problematic.

Inspect the beads after every run to see if the tire is separating at the bead, if so, then clean apply fresh glue.

That's what I used to use. Loctite 406.

 

[RustyUs]

I had the same problem with CA glue, I think the rims have a similar compound of plastic as the CA glue bottle so it doesn't stick very well.

This stuff works hella good though. Link to Amazon

View attachment 199432

Is that Y'all Can DIY stuff thin, or medium consistency?