Turning when I'm on the throttle

[Autobodyguy]

My jato basically will not turn when I'm on the throttle Its like it's its about to wheely and there is absolutely no traction I was wondering if there is somthing I can do to the suspension to correct this I also have a set of upgraded shocks and springs I haven't felt like doin it (I just got it running for the first time 6 hours ago I wanna bash!!!) So can i adjust coil overs to better my cornering or will these new ones do it?

 

[olds97_lss]

Could stiffen up the rear shocks a bit, might help keep the weight transfer down some. Got sway bars?

 

[Bashing_Nitro_Carnage]

I don't see how this can be answered unless we know what sort of surface terrain you are talking about, in addition to *where* in the turn you are having problems. i.e. Are you wanting more side-bite or forward bite? By that, stiffening one end of the car reduces traction in that end (giving the 'feeling' of added traction in the opposite end). However, the type of surface (ie can you grip the road well or is it slick, or loamy?)...in addition to the terrain (i.e. smooth, or big bumps, or lots of small ruts., etc etc.) is key as do doing something for one will have the opposite affect obviously on the other. ;-)

I would personally begin with different tires. Even the smallest tread/pattern change can make an enormous difference. It's not subjective. Wrong tires and your vehicle will fight itself p;-(

Concerning your question specifically, on-power/off-power steering is dictated almost exclusively by the front diff (this is why their are options for different viscosity). General guidelines: lighter more off-power steering, thicker better on-power. It's really a preferences (do you like to throttle though turns or hit the corner entry hard, coast the turn then punch it on exit)(? However it's a setup change among many, whose clustered effect give the vehicle a specific characteristic.

Regarding sway bars and stiffer shock oil....they actually reduce traction. I'm not sure how others on here use them but in off-road they are used to reduce traction on that end of vehicle (by limiting chassis roll, of course)...I assume you are off-road since you noted "bashing". ?

I do agree with above the weight distro is key here...but the question is do you want to prevent weight being sent to the rear or sent it to the front there is a huge difference between the two). So like when you hit the turn the amount of weight you send to the front will needs to be known (as does surface/terrain). Otherwise I can just give you general info but not specific unless I guess.

So I will guess ;-)
Assume it's off-road (hard dirt) bumpy terrain. Problem is corner exit, the Jato pushes...you want maintain the weight up front going in to, through, and out of the turn (remember, exact opposite of sending the weight there)
You hit that turn and keep consistent speed then fire out of the hole (where as someone who like off-power steering would hit the corner hard then brake (transferring weight as he coasts) then transfer again when he hits cornet exit)
Anyway, that is how I drive and I've had to battle this issue one a few vehicles so in this instance, below is what I'd recommend. Id make one change then the next etc so you know what works/doesn't.
1. Try a set of tires intended for that surface
2. Keep trying until you find the right pattern (as nothing below, above, or side-to-side) will work with the wrong tires
3. Reduce antisquat (this will drastically reduce help how the rear raises (or not) hitting the turn and dips (or not) leaving it. I'm unsure what the stock setting is for Jato but go 0 degrees if needed.
4, Stand shocks up in rear.
5, Lay them down up front
6. Increase droop up front
7. Reduce droop in the rear

These settings are pretty much intended for the examle I noted, which is nice because you don't rob peter to pay paul. ;-) I know it's a long response and I don't understandn the science behind it I just know it's what I have found to work for me and I drive until I get me some serious KARNAGE!!!!! ;-)

 

[ninnon]

As others have said, we need to know what terrain you're running on, if from your previous posts it's 20f then it's probably icy. The post above explains things pretty well, but here's a website I found recently that goes into depth about what all those phrases mean, and what they do. From someone who's never really been into racing, or driving round tracks, it has really helped a lot:
https://hpisavagex46.wordpress.com/2012/01/12/rc-setup-guide-basics-to-expert-thetoyz-forums/

 

[Roger A. Cucal Jr.]

As others have said, we need to know what terrain you're running on, if from your previous posts it's 20f then it's probably icy. The post above explains things pretty well, but here's a website I found recently that goes into depth about what all those phrases mean, and what they do. From someone who's never really been into racing, or driving round tracks, it has really helped a lot:
https://hpisavagex46.wordpress.com/2012/01/12/rc-setup-guide-basics-to-expert-thetoyz-forums/

Hi Ninnon, I'm glad finally found this. This is the link that I was asking just a few minutes ago (Jan. 01 '16 / 21:20H). Thanks very much dude, this will help me with rc understanding.

 

[ninnon]

Hi Ninnon, I'm glad finally found this. This is the link that I was asking just a few minutes ago (Jan. 01 '16 / 21:20H). Thanks very much dude, this will help me with rc understanding.

Aah right, glad you found it. Other guides can be found pinned at the top of the Nitro RC sub forum

 

[Roger A. Cucal Jr.]

Aah right, glad you found it. Other guides can be found pinned at the top of the Nitro RC sub forum

Yeah, its that link that you gave to autobudyguy. Thank man.
That is exactly what I need to properly set my kit with the new track that we are running in Al Ain U.A.E. Binona track.
Now, can u pls correct me if I'm wrong... ackerman is the "C" hub and anti roll bar is the "sway bar", right?

 

[ninnon]

Yeah, its that link that you gave to autobudyguy. Thank man.
That is exactly what I need to properly set my kit with the new track that we are running in Al Ain U.A.E. Binona track.
Now, can u pls correct me if I'm wrong... ackerman is the "C" hub and anti roll bar is the "sway bar", right?

Ackerman is the principle that inner and outer wheels on any vehicle with 4 wheels will turn at different rates, so no, not a specific part unless I've not heard of it being said. This is a C-hub:

Anti roll bars and anti sway bars are basically the same thing, they are just torsioned bars that resist body roll.

 

[Roger A. Cucal Jr.]

Ackerman is the principle that inner and outer wheels on any vehicle with 4 wheels will turn at different rates, so no, not a specific part unless I've not heard of it being said. This is a C-hub:

Anti roll bars and anti sway bars are basically the same thing, they are just torsioned bars that resist body roll.

Copy that! Tnx...

 

[wacmartin]

The Jato is a very fast RC car, your problem more then likely lays within the fact that on throttle the front end is lifting up. Even ever so slightly that is going to affect steering. Simple solution maybe try adding weight up front and a little bit of throttle control.

 

[ninnon]

The Jato is a very fast RC car, your problem more then likely lays within the fact that on throttle the front end is lifting up. Even ever so slightly that is going to affect steering. Simple solution maybe try adding weight up front and a little bit of throttle control.

You're right, the Jato isn't renowned for steering at high speeds.