tuning

[smittyzz]

Use a heat gun to warm up the engine when it's cold outside, makes it much easier to start.

I do that, but I just am starting to get the feeling that the motor is worn or I'm wearing it, it's pretty easy to turn the flywheel, but with the pull start its got compression, tomorrow I'm gonna try some more, but if I need a new motor I am looking at an smt. 20 on eBay brand new

---------- Post added at 7:51 PM ---------- Previous post was at 7:46 PM ----------

If you can turn it with your finger then the piston and sleeve are toast. You either need to get a new piston and sleeve or upgrade to a new engine.

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---------- Post added at 7:31 PM ---------- Previous post was at 7:29 PM ----------

Throwing out a lot of fuel is either WAY too rich or your piston/sleeve are toast. After stating you can easily turn the flywheel with your figure its definitely time for a rebuild or new engine.

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Not really what I wanted to hear but I kind of did lol, I'm looking at an smt .20 are they good motors?

 

[RoketRdr]

Yes they make good engines. But you also might consider going with a bigger engine like a .25 depending on what your end goal is. What are you putting it in and are you just bashing or going to race as well?

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[smittyzz]

Yes they make good engines. But you also might consider going with a bigger engine like a .25 depending on what your end goal is. What are you putting it in and are you just bashing or going to race as well?

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pretty much bashing, don't really want to go that big as I don't believe my drive train with hold against it, and I'm already 100 overmatched y limit lol
you have no idea how mad and gratefully the other half is at my truck and the hobby its self.
I wish I went brand new atleast. once again my patience screws me over...
but I'm prolly going to order that smt. 20 Friday.
on another note, sent the seller a message asking for like 20 tewards the new motor, it was worth a try..
I am so looking forward to a fresh start with my own motor and tuning from scratch!

 

[RoketRdr]

If you're a guy that knows you're going to mod your ride heavily then buying used is the best way to go if you're on a budget. Getting it at half the price knowing you're going to change half the parts works out in your financial favor. . So what are you driving?

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[smittyzz]

your gonna laugh at me..
volcano s30. 115 shipped. so far I've got like 250 total.
New chassis and motor mounts, New set of doggone just 2, reciever( I've stuffed a 9.6v in both rx and tx, New diff crap 100k weight, New throttle break linkage, New fuel lines a set of spare screws, 2 quarts of fuel (I'm 1/4th thru the first bottle with 0 satisfaction! ) after run oil, a wrench for my truck,
I need 2 new rims and tires and drive cups soon,
I waste ing to get an electric kit for 35 and a 2 speed tranny with tires and a glow wrench for 31(I have a guy I go to on eBay lol that's when you know you should have went new!)

 

[RoketRdr]

Doesn't matter what the ride is or the cost. With the right mods you can turn anything into a monster.

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[smittyzz]

Doesn't matter what the ride is or the cost. With the right mods you can turn anything into a monster.

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well let's talk=)
I'm actually about to order that motor, and the 2 speed tranny is next,
but I have no idea on gearing, I wanna have lots of torque and top speed,
there's a lot I wanna do but I have to do It slowly, lol
the better half isn't the happiest right now lol

 

[RoketRdr]

Just remind her of how much she spends on shoes, clothes, hair & nail maintenance, dining and the house/car you pay for. Then spend YOUR few bucks on your RC with no guilt or shame.

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[smittyzz]

Just remind her of how much she spends on shoes, clothes, hair & nail maintenance, dining and the house/car you pay for. Then spend YOUR few bucks on your RC with no guilt or shame.

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hahaha that was so funny!!!
so upgrades?

 

[Rolex]

I can turn the flywheel with ease with a figure. and if I try to go low Rome, it just quits out of know where

I don't know if you rely on auto correct or you're just in a hurry, but I was able to figure out that you turn it with a finger.
I'm stumped on "If I try to go low Rome". Does that mean you're heading to southern Italy?

Take a few seconds to check your posts. It will make it easier for everybody who's reading them.

 

[smittyzz]

I don't know if you rely on auto correct or you're just in a hurry, but I was able to figure out that you turn it with a finger.
I'm stumped on "If I try to go low Rome". Does that mean you're heading to southern Italy?

Take a few seconds to check your posts. It will make it easier for everybody who's reading them.

it's a combination of autocorrection and this website not playing well with my phone, if I type fast like I normally do it misses words or puts them to other things, ill try crosstalk again. my apologies!

 

[smittyzz]

today I'm gonna mess with it and see what I can do, I ordered that other motor off eBay and I'm impatiently waiting lol

now that I have a new motor on its way, exactly what break in process do you suggest?
I've read so many
it's an smt .20

 

[Nitro Nerd]

The SMT .15 was the very first nitro engine I ever started. ;-) Regarding break in...everyone has their own method. Mine is a hybrid. Idle first tank. 2nd tank low rpms. 3rd tank I begin to heat cycle a little, etc.

As long as you don't go WOT on the first tank, allow the piston to cool at BDC between runs and keep the temps 190-210 for first few tanks, you'll be fine.

 

[smittyzz]

The SMT .15 was the very first nitro engine I ever started. ;-) Regarding break in...everyone has their own method. Mine is a hybrid. Idle first tank. 2nd tank low rpms. 3rd tank I begin to heat cycle a little, etc.

As long as you don't go WOT on the first tank, allow the piston to cool at BDC between runs and keep the temps 190-210 for first few tanks, you'll be fine.

I was going to go with that but I'm thinking I'm going to heat cycle break mine in, I've been doing a lot of research and that seems like the best for the motor.
and that's cool, is smt still producing?

 

[Cornholio]

As long as you don't go WOT on the first tank, allow the piston to cool at BDC between runs and keep the temps 190-210 for first few tanks, you'll be fine.

That pretty much sums it up.

 

[Nitro Nerd]

So regarding the heat cycle method: here are my thoughts.

1. Lots of people do it, and it is proven.
2. Be careful with it. ;-)

When I got my first Werks engine, I had an hour long chat with the guy who designs them. He was adament about not heat cycling (not just his engines, but any nitro engine). The crux of his point was that the risk/reward is just not there. In other words, what do you benefit from doing it, vs things that can go wrong.

Please note that I am NOT here to dismiss that method--just passing along what I've been told. Most manufacturers suggest other methods. Of course this is partly because they are concerned with newbies popping their new engine, so the method they recommend is extremely safe. As noted, if anyone wants to come to the defense of heat cycling, you won't hear a peep from me in return, as if done correctly--indeed it sound method.

Or is it? One thing lacking (that I'm aware of at least) are data points concerning break in methods. The theory behind it is engine life. I'd love to see something that says using X method resulted in Y years. Of course that will never happen due to all the variables involved.

All I know is this: I've broken in ~15 engines. I've never "truly" heat-cycled and have had no issues, save for the time my knuckle hit the roto carb and I went WOT on the first start. Attached is the result. :\

Just be carefu regarding whatever method you use---especially for the first two tanks. Also remember that some engines take well over a gallon before they are properly broken in

 

[Rolex]

Go low Rome and avoid woting.

check this out for breaking in...

https://www.rcnitrotalk.com/forum/showpost.php?p=600514&postcount=1

 

[RoketRdr]

The biggest issue with manufacturers is....WARRANTY. They don't want to replace engines for free if they can help it. MOST buyers of RC rides are inexperienced and won't race their cars. Manufacturer break in method is for longevity to reduce warranty claims just like auto manufacturers. If you're a racer that wants max performance and not worried about longevity then by all means use the heat cycle method. This is about metallurgy and the affects that proper heat/cold cycling has on the dissimilar metals. Determine what you want the engine to do and how much money you're willing to spend on maintenance and that will determine what break in method you should use.

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[Jsmith]

I'm so confused.......never mind.

 

[Nitro Nerd]

The biggest issue with manufacturers is....WARRANTY. They don't want to replace engines for free if they can help it.

I'm not aware of any manufacturers who will honor warrantires once fuel has been put in the engine (without fighting tooth and nail). I could very well be wrong, but have read many scenarios where they simply claim you did not break it in correctly.

If you're a racer that wants max performance and not worried about longevity then by all means use the heat cycle method.

Can't argue against this, as i know many people who race--there engines are beasts, and they heat-cylcled. At the same time, I know many who did not heat-cycle and have just as strong engines (if not stronger). I guess my point is there is no data points to back it up either way. So IMO, saying that if one does not heat-cycle is doing a disservice---not sure if I agree..(And I realize you are not saying this.)

In the end, it's whatever you are comfortable with, as long as you follow basic principles.