2revo1maxx
Hardcore RCTalk User
You could try a small unlit propane torch instead of carb cleaner, but all you need is air
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Trouble starting, glow plug dies fast, always needs tuning (help me before I sell it!)
- Thread starter jgorm
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #22
I planned on using air for the nitro engine, carb cleaner is for real engines sucking vacuum because adding air when its already being sucked in wont do much. I got the rear case sealed up nicely and the carb is off. It looks real clean so it shouldn't be much work to seal it up.
- Thread starter
- #23
I made some progress and its running good now. I fought for a bit on why it was running lean with the needles way out and it was because the inner air filter thing got sucked into the hole and was choking it. I couldn't figure out why it was running hot on the dyno even when I kept adding fuel. I'm sure that most people don't actually watch the temps on the head while at full throttle and wait until they drive back and stop. You would be surprised to see how fast they drop even with a tiny fan blowing on the head. Like 20F in <5 seconds.
I put a few tanks through it so far and I have a couple more questions for you guys. I tried eneloop rechargeable batteries in the truck's 4 AA pack and they were toast after a bit more than one tank worth of driving and it looses turning radius. Regular batteries seem to work fine, but I want to get a rechargeable pack. I see there are 4.8 and 6v pack. I figure more is better, but you guys know best. I'm also looking to get a new charger. I have a old black widow peak charger, but it's pretty old and there is no display, or selection for voltage, only amps and NiMH and NiCad, so I don't think it will work for that. Depending on the cost difference I might want a charger that can charge any kind of rc battery, especially lipos for future stuff. If you can throw out a couple links for batteries and chargers that would be great! Or even a good online hobby store.
I looked up my steering servo and it makes way more tq at 6v (200 vs 160) so 6v is much prefered. I don't think I can fit a 5 cell without modifications. Here is a picture, but it's kind of hard to see that the receiver tray fits right on top of the 4 cell pack.
This is part of my starting rig now. I'm still waiting on the voltage converter to get here from china, so for now I duct taped a battery in there. The volt meter and switch help a ton. I can flip it on and off quickly so I'm not wasting juice, and I know when it starts going bad. Over 1V is great, over 0.9v is good, 0.8V will work and under that is a waste of time. These voltages are "live" while the plug is lit. It will look cleaner once I get the tape and crap off, but it works well for now. here is a picture.
Also the truck won't do wheelies or spin the tires on pavement. Is that normal? It seems to haul ass, but I thought I remember it doing wheelies off the gas sometimes.
I put a few tanks through it so far and I have a couple more questions for you guys. I tried eneloop rechargeable batteries in the truck's 4 AA pack and they were toast after a bit more than one tank worth of driving and it looses turning radius. Regular batteries seem to work fine, but I want to get a rechargeable pack. I see there are 4.8 and 6v pack. I figure more is better, but you guys know best. I'm also looking to get a new charger. I have a old black widow peak charger, but it's pretty old and there is no display, or selection for voltage, only amps and NiMH and NiCad, so I don't think it will work for that. Depending on the cost difference I might want a charger that can charge any kind of rc battery, especially lipos for future stuff. If you can throw out a couple links for batteries and chargers that would be great! Or even a good online hobby store.
I looked up my steering servo and it makes way more tq at 6v (200 vs 160) so 6v is much prefered. I don't think I can fit a 5 cell without modifications. Here is a picture, but it's kind of hard to see that the receiver tray fits right on top of the 4 cell pack.
This is part of my starting rig now. I'm still waiting on the voltage converter to get here from china, so for now I duct taped a battery in there. The volt meter and switch help a ton. I can flip it on and off quickly so I'm not wasting juice, and I know when it starts going bad. Over 1V is great, over 0.9v is good, 0.8V will work and under that is a waste of time. These voltages are "live" while the plug is lit. It will look cleaner once I get the tape and crap off, but it works well for now. here is a picture.
Also the truck won't do wheelies or spin the tires on pavement. Is that normal? It seems to haul ass, but I thought I remember it doing wheelies off the gas sometimes.
Could be your slipper slipping or clutch slipping causing the no wheelies thing.
A typical 5 cell 2/3A hump pack will fit in a savage radio box and give you 6V. To run rechargable NiMH cells, you need to run 5 to get 6V since they only put out 1.2V per cell. Alkalines put out 1.5V per cell, but don't have near the current capacity of NiMH cells.
I've used these with good success:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVNP9&P=7
I usually install a switch that has a charge plug on it so I can charge the battery without removing anything. Depending on what you want to do, you can either leave the charge plug dangling or get a mount for it.
I used this mount, or one like it:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXE962&P=ML
I cut a hunk off an old RPM skidplate I had in a drawer to fit in the slot where the battery meter would go on my X and mounted the jack there:
As for a charger, I use an old MRC 959 that's a lot like this: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXRST9&P=ML
Great little charger and does any quantity of cells ranging from 1-8 cells (I know it says 3-8, but I charge 1,2,4,5,8 at a time and it works fine). I use it for any of my rechargable AA's, my transmitter(s), glow heater and receiver packs.
A typical 5 cell 2/3A hump pack will fit in a savage radio box and give you 6V. To run rechargable NiMH cells, you need to run 5 to get 6V since they only put out 1.2V per cell. Alkalines put out 1.5V per cell, but don't have near the current capacity of NiMH cells.
I've used these with good success:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVNP9&P=7
I usually install a switch that has a charge plug on it so I can charge the battery without removing anything. Depending on what you want to do, you can either leave the charge plug dangling or get a mount for it.
I used this mount, or one like it:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXE962&P=ML
I cut a hunk off an old RPM skidplate I had in a drawer to fit in the slot where the battery meter would go on my X and mounted the jack there:
As for a charger, I use an old MRC 959 that's a lot like this: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXRST9&P=ML
Great little charger and does any quantity of cells ranging from 1-8 cells (I know it says 3-8, but I charge 1,2,4,5,8 at a time and it works fine). I use it for any of my rechargable AA's, my transmitter(s), glow heater and receiver packs.
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