Traxxas Slash 1/16 servo not moving

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Nsanti

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I just ordered a new motor and servo for my Traxxas slash 1/16. When trying to replace the servo the arm was hitting the guard. Then the servo was moving very little. Now the truck appears to be stuck in lad mode. I am using the stock nimh battery that according to the charger is half way charged. I tried Traxxas throttle calibration video and that is not working. I even tried my flysky transmitter and receiver and nothing happened. Still very little servo control.

 
slow blinking light means low battery voltage.. charge battery.. servo can not make contact with chassis.. try to move servo arm so it doe not hit anything
 
Thank you. I charged the battery and fixed the servo (I had it in upside down with the output facing the wrong way) I got it all back together but am hearing a gridding noise coming from the transmission. I want to take it apart to see if anything is wrong with it but I can’t find any clear videos on how to do it.
 
we have certain names of things in this hobby..this might help.. the main gearing where motor is.is called a differential.

 
I am not talking about the diff. I am talking about the gearbox that comes off of the motor. When the bottom plate is removed in that video you suggested there is a box in between the driveshafts. That is the part that appears to be making a grinding noise in my rc. I am talking about the part in this video:
 
Thank you. I charged the battery and fixed the servo (I had it in upside down with the output facing the wrong way) I got it all back together but am hearing a gridding noise coming from the transmission. I want to take it apart to see if anything is wrong with it but I can’t find any clear videos on how to do it.

With RC's ,the best thing to do is to take stuff apart ,it is the only way that one would learn ,this is one of the main issues
when buying RTR's rather a kit that one would actually build!

So ,rip that thing apart an inspect it ,it probably only needs to be cleaned & lubed as mass produced stuff like Traxxas
sometimes forget to lube their gear boxes & diffs!....:cool:
 
I opened the transmission and it’s very dirty inside, so I, going to clean it with qtips and alcohol. It’s also a little grinds, but no gears are broken. Would white lithium grease be a good idea to lube it with after I finish cleaning it?
 
I opened the transmission and it’s very dirty inside, so I, going to clean it with qtips and alcohol. It’s also a little grinds, but no gears are broken. Would white lithium grease be a good idea to lube it with after I finish cleaning it?

Uh ,Iam not sure with that ,that grease is a real light weight for like servo gears an mechanisms in electronics ,however .
someone else may have a better clue ,so hang in there awhile an see what others say!...:thumbs-up:
 
No its to light as in viscosity . Id use more or a black grease..I use a open gear lube...https://www.toolup.com/Aervoe-7045-H-D-Open-Gear-Wire-Rope-Lube?CAWELAID=120204890000010954&catargetid=120204890000444943&CADEVICE=c
 
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I do have this white grease that came with my orlandoo hunter. It seems pretty thick. I’m not sure what is is though.
image.jpg
 
I do have this white grease that came with my orlandoo hunter. It seems pretty thick. I’m not sure what is is though.View attachment 120073

I had to look up what that Orlandoo hunter was ,so it is an RC ,if it is a kit ,then that is probably the gear box
grease ,I would use it ,but you can go to your local HS an get some ,my guess ,you would need some performance
grease that can hold up to high RPM's & heat!
 
I just used a spray on white lithium grease. I heard people saying that Traxxas uses that from the factory, and others saying they’ve never had a problem with it. I chose not to use the orlandoo hunter grease since the gears in that kit were metal, and I’m not sure if it is safe on plastic.
 
I just used a spray on white lithium grease. I heard people saying that Traxxas uses that from the factory, and others saying they’ve never had a problem with it. I chose not to use the orlandoo hunter grease since the gears in that kit were metal, and I’m not sure if it is safe on plastic.

I am glad to here that you took the time to work on it ,as this is the only way to learn about stuff like this!
Sure ,you can ask what problems are ,an people will give answers ,but until you start working on this stuff ,
you wont solve or fix the issues!
If your running gear is jamming or binding ,it will put a strain on your other stuff & wear it down or overheat!

An I am especially proud of you on getting back here an posting instead of leaving with out the folks here
knowing if you had got your rig fixed or not!....:thumbs-up:...........:cool:
 
I am glad to here that you took the time to work on it ,as this is the only way to learn about stuff like this!
Sure ,you can ask what problems are ,an people will give answers ,but until you start working on this stuff ,
you wont solve or fix the issues!
If your running gear is jamming or binding ,it will put a strain on your other stuff & wear it down or overheat!

An I am especially proud of you on getting back here an posting instead of leaving with out the folks here
knowing if you had got your rig fixed or not!....:thumbs-up:...........:cool:
By tearing it apart I realized the problem wasn’t the transmission at all, although cleaning and greasing it was still beneficial since it was dirty and dry inside. The noise was because my gear mesh was too tight. When I get it just right the noise goes away and it runs smooth. Thank you for encouraging me to take things apart and to work out the issues.
 
to get gear mesh correct there is the old put a piece of paper in-between gears then tighten motor in that place and remove paper.. I also do the same w mod 1 gears but use 2 pieces of paper..
 
I can adjust it so the noise goes away, but after running it for a while either the motor moves away from the spur gear and I have no power, or the gears move closer together and it grinds. I’m thinking of putting some lock tight on the motor screw to prevent it from moving too close or too far.
 
no dont use lock tite. get new motor mount screws. get black hardened 1 or stainless... you can also buy a lock kit thats a fancy washer system that locks motor screws in place.
 
I can adjust it so the noise goes away, but after running it for a while either the motor moves away from the spur gear and I have no power, or the gears move closer together and it grinds. I’m thinking of putting some lock tight on the motor screw to prevent it from moving too close or too far.

I had issues like that before years ago messing with the old electric ones ,I solved that problem with flat washer!
 
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