The painting of the bodies

[flandersander]

Hey all, I'm really looking into body painting. I live on a farm, so air compressors are abundant. So all i need then is an airbrush and paint? Could sombody please make me a complete list of exactly what i would need... for the basics? Here is what I think:
1) air compressor
2) air brush
3) paint (What kind?)
4) clear lid
5) masking tape
What else?

 

[NCNitro]

Moisture trap, pressure regulator, compresser, air brush, (I like a dual action gravity feed)liquid mask, blue painters tape, paint for lexan bodies, (I prefer Pactra Acryl) that should get you going

 

[flandersander]

whats a moisture trap? liquid mask? it feels like i'm new to RC all over again

 

[Lessen]

A moisture trap does exactly what it says. It traps trace moisture in the compressed air so that the air you are shooting is dryer than the air you are breathing. If you don't have a moisture trap the outcome of your painting may be affected. The extra moisture may start to play havoc with your paint, moreso if you shoot laquer based paint.

 

[flandersander]

Cool. I got an airbrush today. I can't figure out how to get it "set" properly. I took a look for paints at my lhs and i couldn't under it. The only paints they had there were either small rattle cans, or little tiny jars thats about 2x2x2. Not very big i thought. Thats what I couldnt wrap my feeble mind around. It took quite a bit of water to spray and i thought I would go through a billion little paint jars. Not sure if this helps, but the kind of airbrush i have, it has a needle in the middle, and is gravity fed. I can't get it to spray a tight enough spray. The needle, when pulled back or out slightly, will spray more paint. when pushed in, it sprays less paint. Thanks for the help.

 

[alpinehyperlite]

you shouldnt use water, you need to mix your paints with thinners of the same brand.

 

[Candyman]

you shouldnt use water, you need to mix your paints with thinners of the same brand.

Actually, it depends upon the paint you're using. If you're using Faskolor, Createx or Pactra Acryl, they are all water-based and you can thin them with tap water. Any of the enamels (ie Pactra Enamel or Spaz Stix) you'll have to thin with paint thinnner.

Cool. I got an airbrush today. I can't figure out how to get it "set" properly. I took a look for paints at my lhs and i couldn't under it. The only paints they had there were either small rattle cans, or little tiny jars thats about 2x2x2. Not very big i thought. Thats what I couldnt wrap my feeble mind around. It took quite a bit of water to spray and i thought I would go through a billion little paint jars. Not sure if this helps, but the kind of airbrush i have, it has a needle in the middle, and is gravity fed. I can't get it to spray a tight enough spray. The needle, when pulled back or out slightly, will spray more paint. when pushed in, it sprays less paint. Thanks for the help.

Sounds like you have a "dual action" airbrush. Pushing the button down starts the air. Moving the button back increases paintflow. It takes some practice. One note, if you live in a bigger area, look for like a Michael's craft store or a fine arts store. In a lot of these, they carry Createx paints. These are actually meant for fine art airbrush work, but they're almost virtually the same formulation as Parma Faskolor, and usually a little cheaper than the hobby shop. I recommend going out and buying a large bottle of like black or something. Then get a 2-liter soda bottle and cut it in half the long way. Use that as a practice canvas to get used to how the airbrush lays paint. Work on making small shapes. Dots. Thin lines. Thick lines. Fades. Things like that. Then you'll be more confident when you actually start a project.

 

[flandersander]

Sounds like you have a "dual action" airbrush. Pushing the button down starts the air. Moving the button back increases paintflow. It takes some practice. One note, if you live in a bigger area, look for like a Michael's craft store or a fine arts store. In a lot of these, they carry Createx paints. These are actually meant for fine art airbrush work, but they're almost virtually the same formulation as Parma Faskolor, and usually a little cheaper than the hobby shop. I recommend going out and buying a large bottle of like black or something. Then get a 2-liter soda bottle and cut it in half the long way. Use that as a practice canvas to get used to how the airbrush lays paint. Work on making small shapes. Dots. Thin lines. Thick lines. Fades. Things like that. Then you'll be more confident when you actually start a project.

Yeah, thats what it is. Problem is, i can't get it to spray thin lines. It just makes a big spray and thats it. No matter how I adjust it. I do have a michael's not too far, next time i'm in the city, i'll go check it out.

 

[Candyman]

Thin lines are achieved by moving the tip closer to the work surface. The thickness will depend on a lot of variables. Mainly the distance from the surface and the needle size. It will also depend on airflow and pressure and paintflow. So a lot of practice is needed. Heck, at this point I can't really do thin lines.

 

[flandersander]

oh i get it. Well what happens when i put it closer, the paint runs. So i move the needle foreward to let out less paint? Or do I just tape off a thin line?

 

[Rolex]

The closer you get, the dryer your mix needs to be. Less air pressure and an almost invisible mist of paint. Several coats for a good cover.
Practice...

 

[flandersander]

ok, I think I understand now. One thing i'm still curious about. How much paint do you go through, say to paint one lid?

 

[Candyman]

Believe it or not, it's not that much. Maybe 2 oz total. Most of this paint covers pretty well with light coats. You want to keep it as thin as possible so it stays nice and flexible.

 

[flandersander]

Ok, so what size paints do you buy? I mean, like quart jugs or little thymbols?

 

[Rolex]

I prefer the 2 oz. bottles, but recently I found the same paint in an art supply store only in 4 oz. bottles, but at a lower price than the 2oz. from the hobby shop.
I've found I can keep stock around even after it's been opened without it going bad. Only the clear Parma will harden in an unopened container, so I always buy that fresh as I need it.

I have a larger moisture trap with the regulator and gauge on the tank, but if you shoot lacquer or enamels it's always a good thing to run another one as close to the spray as possible.
This one is also set up with spring loaded quick-release connectors, so it's an instant to switch it to another hose, or another gun. It has a bleed off button, like a tire valve, to blow off the water as it builds up. If I'm spraying a water based paint, I don't use it.

Instant switch from one gun to another, or a hose to a gun without threading anything.

 

[flandersander]

ok. Thanks rolex! Thats a huge help. you too candyman. This paint, does it say like airbrush paint or is there any special things I have to look for or what?

 

[Rolex]

Look on the bottles, or ask in the store, for paints that are formulated for Lexan or Polycarbonate.

 

[flandersander]

K, but can an airbrush um... blast? any kind of paint?

 

[Rolex]

Yes it can, provided it's thinned properly and you're using the right sized tip and the right pressure.
That's why I have 4 different guns. Different tips for different types of paint or effects. It saves me the time of changing tips. One gun, one job. My Paasche is strictly for spraying clear coat with metallic glitter. Large tip, and I don't have to worry about a bit of glitter coming out in another paint.

 

[flandersander]

Thats smart, costly, but smart.