The OS .30... is it a decent mill?

[jon2]

Ok I have to put my In
So you say these guys were running RB's.@167?
I have to call BS on this one..I have a ws711 And in no way it will even run at that temp.RB recommends to run there mills at 250 to 270..

Whats up with that?

AT 200 or less you are doing more damage to that poor mill Then it deserves to

I agree here. The metals on the sleeve and piston are yet even to be warm enough. The operating temps here are not recommended. If you are running that you are cutting the life of your engine.

 

[sly2136]

no i'm not saying that i' m saying is when the temp dropped i couldn't run it hard enough to build enough heat at those settings it didn't clean out quite like i wanted it to a couple times but i managed to get it done. and if what your saying is true about damage to my motor why is it still going strong no probs ever with any of my motors i must be doing something right and like i said before 90% of those guys were running the same temps some even lower than me. i have some driver sheets here from summer racing and there temps in 45 minutes main in the summer 200 to 210 right off ae site

 

[sly2136]

i'm just telling you what the guys in the pits were reporting with there rosi's and rb's i didnt check there temp so i personally don't know just going on what the said but i know mine was 178 and the other guy from maine that was on here can attest to my temps as he's seen it first hand

 

[ZANDOR]

200 to 210 Is not Good.for any mill
It would be so boggy and in no way would ever keep up in a race at thoese temps..Unless it was a track full of noobs.
At temps like that will wear out a mill in no time

 

[SMaxxin]

I think your temp gun is off, and as it gets colder your engine will start to lean out because the air is thinner as is gets cooler. Hell you can learn that on the Traxxas vid.

 

[sly2136]

yes but there was alot going on with the air that night had storms rolling through the differences in air pressure humidity all have to be taken into consideration here i have three temp gun one on me and one on pit man and a spare one all my gun read the same and when i practice my buddies check it for me with there guns and get the same numbers so i don't know what to say i'm just telling you guys how it was

 

[Revo Rancher]

Sly, no one is saying you are wrong or lying, it's just that that is such an unusual temp even in a big block that it seems hard to understand if you were either really reading the temp right that night (gun was bad) or maybe you were driving so well that the engine did not need to be tuned perfect to keep it in the race. A lot of us know that low temps usually makes it hard to even get the rig to roll. I know if my RB is below 200 I can hardly get it over to the driver stand.

No one questioned your experience or driving ability, just that you raised some eyebrows about your head temps and a few of us were curious.

Now, this thread belongs to Tom, so, any input on O.S. BB engines in general or the new .30?

On edit, Tom, the Feb issue of RCCA does a review. The construction is ABN, something to consider, although not usually a deal killer in this size. Link is for issue contents, not article.

http://www.rccaraction.com/rc/backissues/display.asp?issueid=R0602

 

[godale03]

Is the ABN sleeve just too soft? Is that the reason for unusual wear? I am just a bit curious. I wonder why O.S. would build a mill with an ABN sleeve? I guess the mill is not turning as many RPM's as some? Thanks guys.

Tom

 

[Plaidfish]

anybody have a price on the rebuild kit??? thhey may have gone that way and just do cheap sleeve kits

 

[sly2136]

o.s. actually started out building there engines abn version at first then switched to abc construction. I think they built the .30 size abn to keep cost within reason. o.s. trys to make there non race motors a little cheaper in price so the average basher can afford them

 

[olds97_lss]

I'm not sure if $60 is reasonable for something if it only lasts a couple gallons: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXLJU1&P=Z
To me, it would be reasonable on a $150 engine... but not a $250 engine. I want the thing to last awhile if I dump that much $ on it. I know it's not an Italian $500 engine, but still...

Didn't they make a bad piston/sleeve combo for one of the 21 vz series engines a few years ago? People that had them said they were screaming engines with gobs of power, but the piston/sleeve would loose it's pinch after 2-3 gallons.

 

[sly2136]

yes same deal trying to save money producing the motors, what i was getting at with the .30 though is if they made it abc construction they would have to charge 4 or 5 bills for it instead or 2 to 3 range and they probably thought people would more likely pay less for it than more my opinion who knows what they really are thinking

 

[olds97_lss]

I'd go along with that if it was a vz engine... To me, it just seems like a dressed up RG series. Which by the way sells for $140 in the 21 variety.

I think they just threw together a larger engine to keep up with other companies throwing out larger engines for the MT crowd. Then they charge a price that is comperable to it's competition, not to it's quality. No more, no less.

I'm not fighting about it. Just what I think.

 

[sly2136]

i agree with ya probably is what happened to

 

[Plaidfish]

I'm inclined to agree w/ the .30 to be a lil cheaper looking than I expected...I haven't seen the conrod design on it yet, that tells alot in the engine design....and crank and bearings.....anyone know what carb?? is it the RG one???

 

[olds97_lss]

Tower says it's the 21E for the carb. It does look different than the 20E, at least the photo they have of it at tower. It has an insulater sleeve (that you can buy seperatly) that goes on the carb neck to help avoid vapor lock.

It's needles and stuff though are the same as the 20E. (again, according to towers replacement list)

 

[sly2136]

it has a o.s. 21e carb on it the motor looks like a very nice mill but i don't think it is going to impress people for its size it pulled 1.8 hp on dyno not very impressive seeings how the .18 tz pull 2.28 hp lol

 

[Plaidfish]

i've already seen one and it is impressive....it can move a big MGT thatnwas a lot of bling like a racer it has to do something right....but I don't want to deal w/ another wailing ass engine that's not dependable ever again.....

 

[godale03]

Hey guys,

This is what O.S. says about the liner. Is this the same as ABN? It sounds like they did some sort of tempering or something to the liner. I am hoping someone knows what this means.

The 30VG’s ABL (Advanced Bimetallic Liner) fuses two exclusive alloys into a single, lasting layer of wear protection!

Hey Plaid... this is what they say about the crank.... I can't find a pic yet... but I am looking.

Machined aluminum piston.
Double-bushed, tapered aluminum conrod for minimal wear and weight.
3-port liner.
Oversized balanced crankshaft for added strength and smooth, vibration-free operation.
Rubber-sealed front bearing reduces teardowns — enlarged rear bearing minimizes vibration and improves load-bearing capacity.
Insulated carb sleeve prevents heat-related vaporization and predetonation.


Thanks guys,

Tom

 

[Plaidfish]

yeah that's a pretty generic description they gave there.....is it hardened aluminum or some crap like the RG...is it knife cut? is the crank turbo cut? is the crank intake filed or polished? edges beveled or just cut? Is the intake polished or left rough? the bearings and crank being oversized is pretty much the new standard now anyway....those are signs of quality made mills to me.....the timing/ports on the sleeve is just more or less preference.....I mean if there was a perfect timing to be made then every mill would basically be the same as far as timing goes....