you guys have to remember why roar was created it was made up so that the average person could buy a kit take it to the track and he or she could be competitive meaning they didn't have to put 3 grand in one truck or car. I believe there should be a line at which you have to stop with engine size the cars or trucks can only handle so much hp anything more than it can handle is a waste. and to answer someones question about the o.s. .30 yes they had some bearing issues at first but claim to be getting there bearings from a different company now and should be fixed. also the o.s. .30 is a abn engine so its going to be short lived anyway. also there are a few engine now .30 or larger they wouldn't be making a rule for one engine maker collari has .32 racer edge has there .32 ofna has a .32 there are quite a few but they have to draw the line somewhere to keep it on a level playing field my personal thoughts on bigger motors if you feel you need them learn how to drive it better that will get you around the track much better than a big motor
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The OS .30... is it a decent mill?
- Thread starter godale03
- Start date
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I will agree w/ the "learn to drive first" part but the rule is just unfair to a lot of people...if you look at the cost of the "race" .21 mills they can put out more power than any .30 will but when most of those mod engines are running above 450+ it's easier for a "budget racer" to get a 220 big block that has similar HP & power band to the expensive race mills out today....personally I think the P5 is about as much engien as I want for a while....but I had to run a .27 fantom for a few days just to keep up w/ some of the guys at mills pond.....they still crushed me but w/ the RG I got lapped like I was a joke....and I was running almost perfect laps...no flips just lil board tags......eventually when you move up a class you need the dough to be more competitive...I agree they should have dollar caps on mills for roar events.....
you know its funny you mention that because when i was in florida in november racing with a company i won't mention names but the do engine mod's and i raced about 7 guys from there place all modded rb's and o.s. engines and were talking like it was the way to go, but when it came down to it i had a stock ofna force .26 with 2 race season's on it never been touch as far as rebuilds and i cleaned them out hard lap after lap they were bragging about there run times 8 to 9 minutes in a buggy i was getting the same run time with 125 cc tank stock motor no mod's running temp at the end of the main was 178 so i had a lot more juice left in it but i didn't need it i only tuned in as much power as i need i never tune for maxx power that only gets you in trouble
sly2136 said:
Did you just out drive them or did the Force have as much power as the modded rb's and os's? Also the engine temp was only 178 after a hard run...That is very low temps....you do know that you can damage your mill running too cold right?
well that is my point i out drove them because they were over powered and couldn't handle what they getting out of the motors. I run all my motors that way on the cool side doesn't hurt them one bit i have a .12 that has 3 yrs. of racing on it not showing any signs of wear yet still strong .26 has 2 full years on them and same there no sign of power loss. I do saturate the chassis before i race though meaning I start it up warm it up real good about 5 minutes before the race that way the chassis is up to temp as well some of you don't realize it but the chassis is a heat sink too
Maybe there was no sign of power loss because there was no sign of power in the first place?
Thats very strange to me... I'm not a racer but I have owned and tinkered with a few different mills and none of them have ever ran worth a darn at those temps
onder2: I couldn't get any of my trucks that had a two speed..and now a three speed to get out of first gear until the temp was over 200, my Savy won't get third gear until at least 215-220.
onder2: I couldn't get any of my trucks that had a two speed..and now a three speed to get out of first gear until the temp was over 200, my Savy won't get third gear until at least 215-220.
That's because you didn't have the special heatsink chassis.
you guys sound like you know it all on here whats your racing succes been list it please humor me. i race 5 different classes every race week ranging from electric buggy 1/10 2 wd nitro stock monster truck buggy and truggy every week i place in the top 3 A main consitantly in all those classes not racing just one or two like you guy but 5 try it some time and let me know how you make out thats charging packs fueling the works and i also help my son who is 11 he races 3 nitro trucks in different classes if i didn't know what i was talking about i would be able to even finish with half of them would I seriously try doing 8 cars on race day
Revo Rancher
Hardcore RCTalk User
All that in Lincoln, ME? And I thought Bucksport was a small town.
We are not doubting your racing experience, just your theory that 178 after WINNING a race is an acceptable temp. Something is not adding up here. If you are as experienced as you state, then it would seem you would not even try to defend a .21 or larger mill having a temp of 178 after a race. Seriously, did it stall the whole race? Just very unbelievable.
Again, we do not doubt how many rigs you have owned, or how well you drive, but the statement on head temps and winning races just doesn't add up.
We are not doubting your racing experience, just your theory that 178 after WINNING a race is an acceptable temp. Something is not adding up here. If you are as experienced as you state, then it would seem you would not even try to defend a .21 or larger mill having a temp of 178 after a race. Seriously, did it stall the whole race? Just very unbelievable.
Again, we do not doubt how many rigs you have owned, or how well you drive, but the statement on head temps and winning races just doesn't add up.
beleive it why would i lie about it have no reason to as a rule i try to stay around 200 but if it goes a little lower than that where is goes as long as its running fine i will leave it and if it strays above 200 some i will leave it as long as its running fine i was just telling you guys about that paticular day and what happened i will admit it was a little rich as the night went on the outside temp drop 15 degrees or more i could have leaned it a little but was doing fine and left it alone
jmarzilli
RCTalk Talkaholic
sly2136 said:
Teach me your secret cause my engines run like crap until they hit around 210.
there is no secret could be about anything causing it to be different the glow plug you use how clean the motor is what type of fuel you run gearing there are alot of things that can make temp go up but 210 is not bad if your engine is running fine at that temp or little higher with that setup you have thats fine go with it. this is what i use as a guide anything under 300 for abc engines and 250 for abn engine thoughs are the absolute max temps not that i run but that i consider the danger zone
I agree with a few others here... not saying your lieing, but it makes me want to get the engine you have if it's true! Especially in florida where it's typlically warm and humid.
Where do you check your temps? Down by the glowplug or on the top fin of the head? 170-190 is where the top fin on mine is most of the time, but at the glow plug it's around 210-220...
I can't get an engine to idle or run smoothly until it hits at least 200-205. Hell, my TRX 2.5 won't hardly run unless it's at 215 or more.
I'm a basher only, not a racer, so I never see track conditions. I suppose I might hold on to the throttle a little longer than you would on the track, but not very often. I don't like the screaming sound an engine makes when at WOT for very long... but still, I've been bashing for about 6 years now with 10-12 different engines, 3-4 different mfr's all in 7 different trucks of various mfr's.
How much fuel have you run through the engine? You talk in years... I have an engine in a drawer that's been there for 3 years and it has tons of pinch left... but it has 5 gallons run through it. I typically get 10-12 gallons through an engine before it need a pinch service. I burn about 12 gallons in about a years worth of spring/summer/fall/winter bashing.
Where do you check your temps? Down by the glowplug or on the top fin of the head? 170-190 is where the top fin on mine is most of the time, but at the glow plug it's around 210-220...
I can't get an engine to idle or run smoothly until it hits at least 200-205. Hell, my TRX 2.5 won't hardly run unless it's at 215 or more.
I'm a basher only, not a racer, so I never see track conditions. I suppose I might hold on to the throttle a little longer than you would on the track, but not very often. I don't like the screaming sound an engine makes when at WOT for very long... but still, I've been bashing for about 6 years now with 10-12 different engines, 3-4 different mfr's all in 7 different trucks of various mfr's.
How much fuel have you run through the engine? You talk in years... I have an engine in a drawer that's been there for 3 years and it has tons of pinch left... but it has 5 gallons run through it. I typically get 10-12 gallons through an engine before it need a pinch service. I burn about 12 gallons in about a years worth of spring/summer/fall/winter bashing.
well when any two cycle engine is set up right it shouldn't idle forever as there not made to idle mine idle 10 seconds or so without bliping after that it will stall. i check my temp at the plug. there was a few guys there that night running temp colder than I . I remember hearing one pit man saying 167 in the pits on a rb motor stock one in a kyosho truggy. most of us ran 180 to 200 though with truggy buggies ran little hotter due to the body being so tight to the motor doesn't get the same amount of air flow keep in mind this was night racing in november not racing in the day time in august
jetmechG550
RCTalk VIP
Can't touch this, da da dum, da dum, da dum.:thankyou: :thankyou: :thankyou: Ummmmm...well.....yeah.....ummmm....onder2: (decides to keep mouth shut)
onder2: (decides to keep mouth shut)
sly2136 said:
Correct me if I'm wrong but are your saying when the temp drops that means you should lean the engine to kep the temps the same? In other words the engine will get rich as the air cools.
Last edited:
ZANDOR
RCTalk VIP
Ok I have to put my 
In
So you say these guys were running RB's.@167?
I have to call BS on this one..I have a ws711 And in no way it will even run at that temp.RB recommends to run there mills at 250 to 270..
Whats up with that?
AT 200 or less you are doing more damage to that poor mill Then it deserves to
InSo you say these guys were running RB's.@167?
I have to call BS on this one..I have a ws711 And in no way it will even run at that temp.RB recommends to run there mills at 250 to 270..
Whats up with that?
AT 200 or less you are doing more damage to that poor mill Then it deserves to
