The 'MM' mission.

[luke66]

so, as most of you know, I've built a rustler MM (mid motor, i came up with this, and i am very proud of myself) and I'm soon going to (hopefully) build a Bandit MM. now I'm also guessing youve seen @ZaneC s Bandit. but mine will have a much different vibe, more of a lightweight racer with a bit of bashablity to it.
so, you might be wondering, 'what do you mean by mission?' Well, this is my plan of making the best possible Traxxas 2WD rigs. From racing to extreme bashing, i want to prove that the Traxxas 2WD platform can do it all. How? well, Traxxas hasn't really been updating their platforms (you could say that the new BL-2s rigs are 'new' but they really are just upgraded, not redone) Why? well, just today i was out bashing my rustler, having the time of my life (this car is so fun) and i said to myself, "Luke, more people need cars this cool." so, i will be doing my best to build 'MM' cars that really can't be beat. making two different 'vibes', racing and bashing. and helping people build some 'MM' cars of their own, and, hopefully, learn a lot in the process.


Will i be selling kits to convert your rig to 'MM'? No, not really, but i will try to do my best to help out with your conversion.
Is this a stupid thing for me to do? maybe, i guess we will find out.

if you have questions, just ask. the word of 'MM' must be spread!

 

[DavidB1126]

Once your done I want some help for my slash and rusty to make them actually race able. With the slash since all of the weight, or nearly all of it is in the rear, and for it being rear motor, around the turns on clay, it likes to slide out, and on carpet it will like to traction roll. I would rather mod/rig the stock plastic chassis than custom making or getting a kit which would probably be metal or carbon fiber.

 

[luke66]

Once your done I want some help for my slash and rusty to make them actually race able. With the slash since all of the weight, or nearly all of it is in the rear, and for it being rear motor, around the turns on clay, it likes to slide out, and on carpet it will like to traction roll. I would rather mod/rig the stock plastic chassis than custom making or getting a kit which would probably be metal or carbon fiber.

dremeling the battery compartment and reversing the tranny should work okay. but youll want a transmission case with reversible a-arm mounts.

 

[DavidB1126]

I think @Greywolf74 has done a mid motor rusty? Or if it was a electric converted nitro rustler or jato, because I know that the nitro versions are all mid motor.

 

[luke66]

this: https://jennysrc.com/collections/ni...assis-plate-4422-3-3-44054?variant=8368700931
and this: https://jennysrc.com/collections/ni...39-2530a-battery-box-44054?variant=8371556995
is everything you would need to convert your slash to 'MM' and, only 20$ for the whole kit and kaboodle.

I think @Greywolf74 has done a mid motor rusty? Or if it was a electric converted nitro rustler or jato, because I know that the nitro versions are all mid motor.

he has mentioned it.

 

[DavidB1126]

but youll want a transmission case with reversible a-arm mounts.

If I just have a normal 272R transmission and just reverse it like using that nitro slash chassis, since the arms have offset, I'm guessing that the rear would have alot of toe out?

 

[luke66]

If I just have a normal 272R transmission and just reverse it like using that nitro slash chassis, since the arms have offset, I'm guessing that the rear would have alot of toe out?

no, the toe comes almost entirely from the caster blocks, making it an easy fix. the rear chassis arm mounts have tilt to them (like the front just not as crazy) and they need to be reversed for perfect suspension.
i used one of these: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804713227580.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.3.3d0c290bccf0Ol&algo_pvid=01810447-85eb-4ed3-a39e-8b9a6a78fd6c&algo_exp_id=01810447-85eb-4ed3-a39e-8b9a6a78fd6c-1&pdp_npi=4@dis!USD!19.13!12.05!!!136.07!!@2101f49417018145770173253e8f7e!12000033773625146!sea!US!0!AB&curPageLogUid=tLrMWqmzjxrk

but i bought it off of amazon and spent twice as much

 

[DavidB1126]

no, the toe comes almost entirely from the caster blocks, making it an easy fix. the rear chassis arm mounts have tilt to them (like the front just not as crazy) and they need to be reversed for perfect suspension.
i used one of these: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804713227580.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.3.3d0c290bccf0Ol&algo_pvid=01810447-85eb-4ed3-a39e-8b9a6a78fd6c&algo_exp_id=01810447-85eb-4ed3-a39e-8b9a6a78fd6c-1&pdp_npi=4@dis!USD!19.13!12.05!!!136.07!!@2101f49417018145770173253e8f7e!12000033773625146!sea!US!0!AB&curPageLogUid=tLrMWqmzjxrk

but i bought it off of amazon and spent twice as much

oh, its a copy of the hot racing one.
Wonder if I can drop the 272R diff, bearings and other stuff into that case.
The 272R has larger diff outdrives which means larger bearings.

 

[luke66]

oh, its a copy of the hot racing one.
Wonder if I can drop the 272R diff, bearings and other stuff into that case.
The 272R has larger diff outdrives which means larger bearings.

you would need 272 guts.

 

[DavidB1126]

you would need 272 guts.

thats a con for me, as I want / kinda need a tune-able diff. (sealed diff)

 

[luke66]

thats a con for me, as I want / kinda need a tune-able diff. (sealed diff)

the 272 diff isn't sealed? the 272r could still work, the suspension would be a bit off though.

 

[DavidB1126]

Yea the stock 272 diff is not sealed so you can only use grease and not actual diff oil. Not to mention its planetary. When I rebuilt my rusty 272 trans and diff, I just used the red n tacky (Mobil 1) grease I had. Since its not sealed, and if you used oil, it would just leak out. Same instance with my Mini B.

 

[luke66]

maybe someone makes a sealed diff for the 272...
(edit) this exsists.. https://www.amazon.com/Hot-Racing-T...MIrZaz5bD5ggMVQvHICh1J_gBrEAQYASABEgL7pfD_BwE

 

[DavidB1126]

maybe someone makes a sealed diff for the 272...
(edit) this exsists.. https://www.amazon.com/Hot-Racing-T...MIrZaz5bD5ggMVQvHICh1J_gBrEAQYASABEgL7pfD_BwE

Possibility for me.
Another question, is it possible to use a rear bumper if you reverse the tranny around? I use the normal 272R mounting bracket with a RPM bumper.

 

[luke66]

no, sadly you lose the rear bumper. i am in the process of designing a wheelie bar mount for my Rusty. maybe a bumper mount could come later.

 

[DavidB1126]

I'm wanting bumpers, as you should know how I like to drive and bash my cars. And bumpers, for short course trucks atleast look good.

 

[luke66]

I'm wanting bumpers, as you should know how I like to drive and bash my cars. And bumpers, for short course trucks atleast look good.

you only lose the rear bumpers. you dont really need those as bad. plus, I'm making mounts.

 

[Lukedavis]

Once your done I want some help for my slash and rusty to make them actually race able. With the slash since all of the weight, or nearly all of it is in the rear, and for it being rear motor, around the turns on clay, it likes to slide out, and on carpet it will like to traction roll. I would rather mod/rig the stock plastic chassis than custom making or getting a kit which would probably be metal or carbon fiber.

Dude! I can totally help you out with this!
Can I help with this project at all? I can design stuff for you

 

[DavidB1126]

Sure. Not wanting to start doing a mid motor build until spring time. And I want to do it cheaply too. I think the nitro slash chassis and bulkheads are the way to go for cheap.

 

[luke66]

Dude! I can totally help you out with this!
Can I help with this project at all? I can design stuff for you

you know, I've been wanting to ask, how much does the chassis youve got weigh? the conversion costs 20$ off jennys.

Sure. Not wanting to start doing a mid motor build until spring time. And I want to do it cheaply too. I think the nitro slash chassis and bulkheads are the way to go for cheap.

cheap? i know cheap...