The Mgt line up

[cbaker65]

Alright so it wasn't the fuel because i got some fresh fuel and it still won't move but it will start now and amainhobbies help is now closed for today oof

So the engine runs sort of ok to stay running?
If that is the case ,it should move on its own power ,if not ,the issue could be in the running gear ,you have
to learn how to separate the two to isolate the problem!

There is 5 points where the running gear will not allow the truck to move just on a single diff alone ,either
front or rear diff not counting the transmission itself!

The output shafts either are pinned or have a grub screw at both ends ,then at the axle shaft they have
a grub set screw ,then at the wheel hexes them selves ,have pins ,if any one of those came out ,your truck
will not harley move ,or it will struggle to move even with a good running engine!

Transmission ,make sure that the spur gear is good & is tight were it is not slipping ,an the trans. has a
o-way bearing in it ,if it is bad ,then truck will not move!

Me & Demon knows these trucks inside & out ,hobby shop may only know how to get an engine to
run ,or tune one ,they may not know the aspect of this perticular models transmission!..

 

[Animeweeb]

So the engine runs sort of ok to stay running?
If that is the case ,it should move on its own power ,if not ,the issue could be in the running gear ,you have
to learn how to separate the two to isolate the problem!

There is 5 points where the running gear will not allow the truck to move just on a single diff alone ,either
front or rear diff not counting the transmission itself!

The output shafts either are pinned or have a grub screw at both ends ,then at the axle shaft they have
a grub set screw ,then at the wheel hexes them selves ,have pins ,if any one of those came out ,your truck
will not harley move ,or it will struggle to move even with a good running engine!

Transmission ,make sure that the spur gear is good & is tight were it is not slipping ,an the trans. has a
o-way bearing in it ,if it is bad ,then truck will not move!

Me & Demon knows these trucks inside & out ,hobby shop may only know how to get an engine to
run ,or tune one ,they may not know the aspect of this perticular models transmission!..

Alright thanks i started it up again and it keeps shutting off i used fresh fuel this time and a new glow plug even if i leave the glow starter on the glow plug it still dies i turned all the needles to factory tune the idle gap is around 1.2 mm

 

[cbaker65]

Alright thanks i started it up again and it keeps shutting off i used fresh fuel this time and a new glow plug even if i leave the glow starter on the glow plug it still dies i turned all the needles to factory tune the idle gap is around 1.2 mm

Your Lsn is way to fat for that little air gap for an idle .meaning the air to fuel ratio is totally off
an killing your engine!
Try leaning the Lsn needle in a little at a time until it starts to idle better ,do not just let the engine
sit an idle for long periods ,other wise your just overloading it with fuel causing a flame out an dying ,
blip the throttle a few times to clear it out!..

It is a tuning issue ,your choking the engine with too much fuel!..

 

[Animeweeb]

Your Lsn is way to fat for that little air gap for an idle .meaning the air to fuel ratio is totally off
an killing your engine!
Try leaning the Lsn needle in a little at a time until it starts to idle better ,do not just let the engine
sit an idle for long periods ,other wise your just overloading it with fuel causing a flame out an dying ,
blip the throttle a few times to clear it out!..

It is a tuning issue ,your choking the engine with too much fuel!..

alright that explains why every time i start it sometimes fuel comes out near the glow plug after it dies i'll try leaning the lsn

 

[cbaker65]

alright that explains why every time i start it sometimes fuel comes out near the glow plug after it dies i'll try leaning the lsn

The 8.0 engine was the first engine that I ever had with the 3rd needle ,known as the Mix meter needle ,that
is the big fat screw on the side of the carb. ,DO NOT confuse that one as the LSN like I did!
That one is to remain flush an doesn't need to be turned!

The Lsn is inside the throttle lever housing ,turn it in at first about a 1/4 of a turn to start with ,then start the
engine ,warm it up an tune it from there in 1/16 increments or a width of a screw driver tip at a time if needed ,
as you lean that out ,your engine should start to rev on its own ,when it does ,you may have to calm it down by
lowering your idle screw ,once you get it to where it will some what idle an take off under its own power when
you throttle ,stop there ,an lean your Hsn needle in increments of a width of a screw driver blade until you can
hear the engines rev start to clear up an start to be more responsive as you stab the throttle!..

 

[Animeweeb]

The 8.0 engine was the first engine that I ever had with the 3rd needle ,known as the Mix meter needle ,that
is the big fat screw on the side of the carb. ,DO NOT confuse that one as the LSN like I did!
That one is to remain flush an doesn't need to be turned!

The Lsn is inside the throttle lever housing ,turn it in at first about a 1/4 of a turn to start with ,then start the
engine ,warm it up an tune it from there in 1/16 increments or a width of a screw driver tip at a time if needed ,
as you lean that out ,your engine should start to rev on its own ,when it does ,you may have to calm it down by
lowering your idle screw ,once you get it to where it will some what idle an take off under its own power when
you throttle ,stop there ,an lean your Hsn needle in increments of a width of a screw driver blade until you can
hear the engines rev start to clear up an start to be more responsive as you stab the throttle!..

ok thanks

 

[cbaker65]

ok thanks

Adjusting the Lsn. at first is only temporary to get it to stay running , after that ,you should really
move to the HSN ,in which is technicly your main fuel flow needle ,that is where you would do some
high speed passes an slowly lean it for top end performance ,there is were you have to rely on sound ,
sight & feel ,the sound ,you want to listen for any studdering ,bogging or gurgling sound coming from
the engine on a high speed pass ,if you hear those ,then its too lean ,just richen it up about a 1/4 turn ,
at that point ,then you should be good!

Sight ,make sure that you can still see a little bit of smoke coming from the exhaust ,if so ,then your good ,
if not ,richen it up a 1/4 turn!

Feel ,feel the head to see if it is extremely hot ,an you can do the spit or water drop test ,put a little spit
or a drop of water on the head ,if it sizzles an evaporates as soon as it hits the head ,then its too hot , if
it slowly sizzles off ,then your good!
If it sizzles off too fast ,richen HSN a 1/4 turn!

After HSN is where you want it ,then move back to your Lsn ,an readjust ,you want the engine to
settle down after the high speed pass ,if it doesn't ,then it is still too rich or your idle gap is too
much open ,those two the idle screw & Lsn screws must be adjusted together to get the engine
to settle down after high speed pass ,an idle calm!..