Temperatur -HELP-

[Alex123sb]

Ok so i was out further tuning my engine. My temps are at about 200 - 240 is this ok? What are the optimal temps an engine is suppose to run at? I have read somewhere that's its 225-250 and anything over that is too much. And some say low 200's? Is it also suppose to run at 200 when its idling? Also I'm having a problem at high speeds. I checked my LSN and that seems to be fine, I did the pinch test and its good. Idle is also good. Anyway when it goes straight (straight line) it seems to be fine and reaches high speeds fairly good. But when I try to go fast and turn or try to do donuts and whip it around quick it stalls a little bit or completely dies out. I tried to richen the HSN and it bogs out and i tried leaning it out too but it dies out quicker wtf? Any help would be great. Thank you

Ok so the weather got a little better these past couple of days so today i took my buggy out and idled it for a little bit then i ran it and it died out again. I starter up again and notice the my HSN was turning by its self! I couldn't believe it so I started her up again and it did it again. It turns Clockwise (Leaning) Any suggestions? Is it bad? why is it loose?
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[RC Addict]

Really the right temp is where your engine is making great power without running too rich. IMO anything over 280 is a no-no but some Traxxas mills like it that hot.

200 at idle isn't out of line at all.

AS far a stalling or dying on turns that is a good question. Can you elaborate on that some more?

 

[Alex123sb]

Really the right temp is where your engine is making great power without running too rick. IMO anything over 280 is a no-no but some Traxxas mills like it that hot.

200 at idle isn't out of line at all.

AS far a stalling or dying on turns that is a good question. Can you elaborate on that some more?

Well i don't know how else to say it. Like i said if i just let it rip in a straight line it does well. But when i Rip it and try to whip it around and do donuts and give it gas it loses power and when i let go of the throttle it goes back to normal. Or if I hit the throttle multiple time like going in circles it also does it. Sorry if I still can't explain it any further. :\

 

[RC Addict]

Sounds like fuel starvation when you whip it around, but I wish I had the slightest clue as to why. Let's look for some insight from Lessen or olds. Hell, even Rolex has a bright idea from time to time.

 

[brad55102]

The bog when turning could be a fuel issue. Make sure your tank is full. (replace fuel lines) It sounds to me like it's tuned fairly well. Keep in mind, all engines are different and run at different temps. As a basic rule keep it under 300. I like to run mine around 230 and never over 280. IMO 230 is a safe temp but doesn't give me everything the engine could do, i get max performance around 250-260. Just keep playing with it, you'll figure it out.

 

[Alex123sb]

Yeah that's what i thought too but if i richen it up it bogs out to or it does the same. Unless i richen it significantly? Should i idle it for a couple minutes before i try to rip it? Or just run it on low speed be for WOT?

 

[Scrogg]

More than likely what you are experiencing is the fuel sloshing away from the pickup inside the tank. The fuel tank may be faulty.... matter of fact that would be the first thing I would inspect.
Example the first generation RC8 buggies had an internal fuel tube inside the tanks....caused the exact problems you are mentioning.
Some other things it could be, an exhaust leak causing poor fuel system pressure.
Or it could simply be that your HSN setting is too lean and your LSN is too rich. Common tuning error.
Anytime an engine cuts out or detonates at full speed, that means it's lean on the HSN.
Richen the HSN up and lean the LSN a little more to see if the problem goes away and performance comes back.
Also after having the engine starve for fuel as many times you described, the GP is distorted and will make tuning impossible. Put a new plug in it and retune.

 

[cptvkirk]

Check LSN

If you Have your HSN set and are comfortable with the performance and temps, then double check your lsn. It sounds like you may have you lsn a tad too rich. I just got spending about 3 hours of tuning and assisting break in of a friends new revo (2nd new revo in Iraq this week) The tuning was a tougher than the last and very inconsistent. Once we got the HSN set, I found that having a fat lsn needle setting cause the motor to load when throttle was dropped to idle but motor was still spinning down. when this happened, getting back on the gas often times ended with stalling or sputtering and near quitting. Once we got the lsn leaned out to the right setting, it stopped. I too thought it was fuel supply issue and spent some time keeping tank full and not letting it get anywhere near empty. since the problem didn't go away or change, we started looking else where. Once again, the pinch test worked. We managed to get it to idle by slowly backing off throttle on it's way back to us and easing in to the breaks till it stopped. I pinched the line and sure enough it ran nearly 5 seconds before quitting. Once we turned the lsn a little more, off the line response improved as well as putting an end to the sputtering.

 

[Scrogg]

If you Have your HSN set and are comfortable with the performance and temps, then double check your lsn. It sounds like you may have you lsn a tad too rich. I just got spending about 3 hours of tuning and assisting break in of a friends new revo (2nd new revo in Iraq this week) The tuning was a tougher than the last and very inconsistent. Once we got the HSN set, I found that having a fat lsn needle setting cause the motor to load when throttle was dropped to idle but motor was still spinning down. when this happened, getting back on the gas often times ended with stalling or sputtering and near quitting. Once we got the lsn leaned out to the right setting, it stopped. I too thought it was fuel supply issue and spent some time keeping tank full and not letting it get anywhere near empty. since the problem didn't go away or change, we started looking else where. Once again, the pinch test worked. We managed to get it to idle by slowly backing off throttle on it's way back to us and easing in to the breaks till it stopped. I pinched the line and sure enough it ran nearly 5 seconds before quitting. Once we turned the lsn a little more, off the line response improved as well as putting an end to the sputtering.

Good advice as well. It's really hard to diagnose something we do not have our hands on. i'll still give it a try though. Lord knows I went through similar headaches learning to tune different engines and r/c's.

 

[Rolex]

Should i idle it for a couple minutes before i try to rip it? Or just run it on low speed be for WOT?

Of course you need to warm it up first. Also, don't make any carb adjustments till it's up to temp, either. To get the best medium setting performance, have it at proper temp with 1/2 tank of fuel.

 

[Alex123sb]

Yeah I think it might be that I'm running rich on the LSN and too lean on the HSN. It got late and i couldn't try it today. Also the weather just wont freaking cooperate grrrrr!

 

[olds97_lss]

Also, when it's 30F or less outside, it makes it difficult to tune them right. It does just sound like your either sloshing fuel away from the pickup, or your running a bit lean.

 

[Alex123sb]

Found the problem!

Ok so the weather got a little better these past couple of days so today i took my buggy out and idled it for a little bit then i ran it and it died out again. I starter up again and notice the my HSN was turning by its self! :whhooo: I couldn't believe it so I started her up again and it did it again. It turns Clockwise (Leaning) Any suggestions? Is it bad? why is it loose?

 

[Cyclop3000]

Loose oring on the needle maybe? Try changing the needle?

 

[Alex123sb]

Can i change just the needle? Or the whole thing? And how would i know if its the oring? I'm new to all this so i really dont even know what an oring is or where it is lol sorry

 

[olds97_lss]

It's more than likely the o-ring. Depending on your engine, you can get an o-ring kit that should have those in it.

Over time, fuel, use and time cause them to wear, shrink or dry out. I've had a few do that to me. One would go lean on it's own and another would go rich. Replaced the o-rings and the problem went away.