suggestions wanted on a stadium truck

[twholland]

hey guys i was just wondering if you guys could suggest a decent stadium truck. i already have a 1/8 scale buggy but i want to buy a stadium so when i hang with my younger cousin or my buddies they can have something to do too. i need something fast and durable not very high maintenance. any suggestions? oh and a nitro of course.

p.s.

ok i will probably play with it too

 

[Diver6127]

The Associated RC10GT and Team Losi XXX NT are popular picks.

 

[slodsm]

Agreed, there is also the Mugen MST 1 which had axle problems last year but this year has been revamped and i have heard great things. As far as the other two, I always raced Losi, never owned an AE truck. The losi was a fast machine when set up right and very easy to get around the track smooth. The AE drivers I raced against were more aggressive style drivers and they always stated "I would break that thing" reffering to my Losi. These were good drivers as well who beat me many times, it was just their driving style. I myself had no problems with my Losi choice other than breaking a rear pivot block at the worst time after driving 4 hours to the east coast gas blast and not having a spare. Either choice will suit you well I am sure though.

 

[vbgagnon]

I got the RC10gt as my first nitro rc and i have no regrets. It is durable as hell and pretty fast too. It was the rtr model. Engine has enough power and the only things that i broke are things that would be expected to break, from what i hear the losi xxxt is more difficult to work on and is not quite as tough, but a little faster. Hope this helped.

VB

 

[Nitro_Freak]

if you're just bashing (and it sounds like you are), then get either the nitro rustler or the xtm x-cellerator...both are super good, the nitro rustler has more aftermarket support, but the xtm has better handling imo. it's your choice. the xtm is on sale for $220 right now, while the nitro rustler is $300. both are durable

 

[zoeybadm]

GT is the way to go BABY!

 

[StaticSag]

I have the XXXNT and am very happy with it....but I race ...if you intend to bash go with the GT....you will break more bashing IMO and theres just more aftermarket goodies for the GT like RPM A-arms that will make it beefy enuff to handle a good thrashin. If ya plan on racing though, the Losi is again IMO a better out of the box racer....the handling is as good as it gets.

Decide what you plan to do with the truck and consider options like ....Which does your local hobby shop stock the most parts for? What application...racing or bashing? Any friends with either of the trucks that you will bash/race with? (nice to have same in order to borrow and try each others stuff)

Hope that will get ya moving in the right direction


Saggy

 

[zoeybadm]

Originally posted by StaticSag
I have the XXXNT and am very happy with it....but I race ...if you intend to bash go with the GT....you will break more bashing IMO and theres just more aftermarket goodies for the GT like RPM A-arms that will make it beefy enuff to handle a good thrashin. If ya plan on racing though, the Losi is again IMO a better out of the box racer....the handling is as good as it gets.

Decide what you plan to do with the truck and consider options like ....Which does your local hobby shop stock the most parts for? What application...racing or bashing? Any friends with either of the trucks that you will bash/race with? (nice to have same in order to borrow and try each others stuff)

Hope that will get ya moving in the right direction


Saggy

I have a GT and the only place my GT has run was on a track. At the local track a lot of guys run the Losi XXXNT and run well but if you want to run with the big dogs you need a GT. I have never lost a race in Sportsman Nitro to a Losi....ever....end of story.

 

[textim01]

yea there are alot of upgrades for the gt,i have three with 3 differnt chassis,1 with a roll cage all aluminum parts,and a 2.5 with roto start on it.have a double decker all aluminum with os engine.iv yet to break in eather lol.i been runnig a third gt tha i made with leftover stock parts,it has a pro15 with ez start.I'm almost afraid to mess the aluminum ones up lmao.I'm gonna tho i can allways remove anozizing on scratched blue aluminum.other is mostly silver aluminum anyway.and i have the ultra chassis cost $80 doh! now i want the one for the .21 to .26 engine upgrade that cost $144 DOH! i need to sell 1 soon as i learn how to post pictures lol.

 

[twholland]

i bought the rc10gt and went ahead and bought an os cvrx .12 for it. any of you guys run this setup? seems pretty good but not as fast as i would want it to be but my temps never go over 200 thats probably why. i need to lean it out a little but i dont want to over do it. what do you guys think?

 

[RC4LYFE]

ok every ones saying gt, well yea that truck is kick ass, BUT you want low maintenance? dont gt, its a truck that needs alot of attention, In my oppinon, go with the HPI rush, the evo even, it has a rotto start and its derable. losi is good to but i think thats more for the track and serious racers, thats just my opinon, good luck,

 

[vbgagnon]

go 1/16 turn at a time...the temp doesn't really matter as long as you have a nice smoke trail you'll be fine!!!

VB

 

[Diver6127]

Originally posted by vbgagnon
go 1/16 turn at a time...the temp doesn't really matter as long as you have a nice smoke trail you'll be fine!!!

VB

Go too hot and you'll loose your pinch just before you blow the engine. You will still see smoke but that's because of the "BLOW BY" The smoke will be from the unburned fuel and oil and it will seem like it's in a rich condition.

Temp matters very much. The hotter you go, the shorter the lifespan of the engine because of the lack of lube. The cooler it runs is good to a point. If it's too far below operating temps there will not be enough expansion of the sleeve causing early wear on the sleeve. Remember these are ABC engine's. There's no piston rings in em. They rely on sleeve expansion to work properly and temp is a very important part of that.

 

[vbgagnon]

Originally posted by Diver6127


Go too hot and you'll loose your pinch just before you blow the engine. You will still see smoke but that's because of the "BLOW BY" The smoke will be from the unburned fuel and oil and it will seem like it's in a rich condition.

Temp matters very much. The hotter you go, the shorter the lifespan of the engine because of the lack of lube. The cooler it runs is good to a point. If it's too far below operating temps there will not be enough expansion of the sleeve causing early wear on the sleeve. Remember these are ABC engine's. There's no piston rings in em. They rely on sleeve expansion to work properly and temp is a very important part of that.

but if you start rich and lean it out, you will hit a point where there is no smoke before you would hit the too hot point right?

VB

 

[Diver6127]

Originally posted by vbgagnon


but if you start rich and lean it out, you will hit a point where there is no smoke before you would hit the too hot point right?

VB

By the time you hit "no smoke" it's way too hot. Get a temp gauge. Do it right and save your engine. Tune your engine correctly. Nothing runs better than a correctly tuned car.

 

[RatzoRC]

<RC10 GT

 

[twholland]

what is operating temps for this engine?

 

[Diver6127]

Normal operating temps for MOST engines is 220-270 F. That's the low and high end. Tune for temp first, then tweak for performance. The higher the temp, the leaner it will run and also have less life. I suggest trying to aim for 230-240 range.

I have an OS .12 CV-rx that is on it's way to 1.5 gallons and still has excellent compression. My .15 CV-r is gonna be hitting a gallon soon and I am sure that it has a lot of life in it. I usually keep the temps around 230-236 F. Runs like a champ.

 

[Team 17]

Mugen MST-1 is a very nice ST

 

[textim01]

hey twholland,i ahave that engine on the double decker gt,havent broke in yet but have heard they are good.quick,reliable,and easy to tune