Stripping every single screw or thread - WHAT am i doing wrong

[White_Crow_G]

I'm literally DONE with it.
Every single screw will be stripped off. Thread in plastic part - as well.
What am i doing wrong?

As an instance (most annoing) servo horn and a pinion... lock-screw - 100 ot of 100 will be stripped off. Changing servo horn (today) stripp off the main screw...
and its not me IDIOT ho trying to tight it with 1million kg/cm torque.... first time i develop this issue UNdoing the factory screw.
I bought really soft thread locker and it just doesn't hold the lock screw on the motor.
i'm not even mention plastic parts like A-arms where you screw your shocks... but DIFFFS>.. in my TT2.0 and SSTE there are plastic diff cases...how can i tighten them down to prevent leakage? is there any technique i can repair stripped thread on a plastic parts?

Please, help.
I do enjoy building my rigs, re-building the, maintenance, but this part is so annoying..

 

[DavidB1126]

Just to clarify, the threads on plastic parts getting stripped out or stripping up screw heads?

Oh nvm reread it and I got it
I just went back to the OEM tower on my slash from a RPM one due to stripped out threads (for camber link) Previously I used a little of CA glue and worked for a while but eventually it worn off and the screw started to back out. On parts that can use a longer screw and nut on the other side I try to do that but most of the time but parts like diff cases you can't do that.

 

[Tunedfrog]

Touch the head of the screws with a soldering iron if they are metal to metal.
If they are in plastic then work it back and forth a little at a time.

 

[White_Crow_G]

CA glue

well, my thought were to use it with some soda (baking soda)
but imo - it's not how new rig should work...
i did try plumbing tape - but i dont really like the way how it works.

 

[White_Crow_G]

Touch the head of the screws with a soldering iron if they are metal to metal.
If they are in plastic then work it back and forth a little at a time.

well...you talking about UNsrewing. what if i strip head up once screwing in. and no, I'm not an idiot and not putting ol my power do screw it in.
Great example is the screw which tighten both of the half's of servo horn up. literally 100 out of 100 will screw up the hex socket in it.

 

[nino]

Practice, practice, practice!
Most screws in plastic don't have to be tight. As soon as the head touches the surface, STOP.
Cheap clamping horns are mostly crap so it's no wonder the screws or the aluminium itself gives up.

 

[fstnd]

Don't buy trash screws from AliExpress. Might sound obvious but... It's very hard not to strip them.
Make sure you have a really GOOD quality hex screwdriver set! I suffered for a year until I finally bought one. They'll serve you forever, and save you from so much trouble.
In my experience that only applies to hex screws.

 

[DavidB1126]

Make sure you have a really GOOD quality hex screwdriver set!

My top picks:
Dynamite red tools
Any MIP
Arrowmaxx
ProTek
Hudy - pricey - alternative - Team EDs

 

[White_Crow_G]

Don't buy trash screws from AliExpress

that was stock HOBAO screws.

 

[White_Crow_G]

Practice, practice, practice!
Most screws in plastic don't have to be tight. As soon as the head touches the surface, STOP.
Cheap clamping horns are mostly crap so it's no wonder the screws or the aluminium itself gives up.

could you please recommend good brand, or model of a horn?
As i got already like 10 of them

 

[WickedFog]

So are you stripping the screw head? Or are you stripping the plastic?

Are you using a drill? Or hand tools?

Which hex drivers are you using? Show me the tips, close up shot.

 

[Doom!]

Sounds like the plastic is stripping.

 

[RustyUs]

Depending on what part; where it's located, I'll use plastic zip-ties ends to stick in a plastic hole as an interim thread fix... sometimes it becomes permanent fix. Yes, I save the slenderer zip-tie clipped off ends just for the purpose of thread repair.

 

[DavidB1126]

Depending on what part; where it's located, I'll use plastic zip-ties ends to stick in a plastic hole as an interim thread fix... sometimes it becomes permanent fix. Yes, I save the slenderer zip-tie clipped off ends just for the purpose of thread repair.
View attachment 236623
View attachment 236624

I'll try that
Noted/saved

 

[RustyUs]

I'm literally DONE with it.
Every single screw will be stripped off. Thread in plastic part - as well.
What am i doing wrong?

As an instance (most annoing) servo horn and a pinion... lock-screw - 100 ot of 100 will be stripped off. Changing servo horn (today) stripp off the main screw...
and its not me IDIOT ho trying to tight it with 1million kg/cm torque.... first time i develop this issue UNdoing the factory screw.
I bought really soft thread locker and it just doesn't hold the lock screw on the motor.
i'm not even mention plastic parts like A-arms where you screw your shocks... but DIFFFS>.. in my TT2.0 and SSTE there are plastic diff cases...how can i tighten them down to prevent leakage? is there any technique i can repair stripped thread on a plastic parts?

Please, help.
I do enjoy building my rigs, re-building the, maintenance, but this part is so annoying..

Well, I don't think it's Hobao's screws or plastics. I've literally taken apart the whole TT 2.0 platform and put 'er back together... some places required multiple undo/redo "screwings"... freakin' motor mount/rear clip . If using power screwdriver to put screws into plastic, only use it for 90% of the screw's threads... finish up the tightening by hand to get that "it's snug enough" feel.

I can see a person stripping the motor screws when changing/adjusting mesh on the TT 2.0... there is no room for a normal hex driver to get a good angle.

 

[White_Crow_G]

So are you stripping the screw head? Or are you stripping the plastic?

Are you using a drill? Or hand tools?

Which hex drivers are you using? Show me the tips, close up shot.

Well, one at a time
1 - both. if i screw in plastic ( diff case, where gears are, not a diff house.) - i will most likely screw up one of the internal threads in diff case. if i screw metal to metal (most annoying place is a servo horns) - i will strip off the head. even if it 2mm hex socket.
2 - no. OR if i lazy - i can use it to screw in for 75% and hands after it
3 - first two are the same "amazon-edition" 50/100mm. second is Xiomi, third - makita.

 

[WickedFog]

Buy you a cheap set of Dynamite drivers.
https://a.co/d/9PNQshr

Or if you can swing it, grab a set of Protek or MIP drivers.
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-rc-trutorque-sl-metric-hex-driver-set-4-ptk-8416/p863873

https://www.amainhobbies.com/mip-gen-2-metric-hex-drivers-set-1.5-2.0-2.5mm-mip9602/p1537774

If you're stripping the threads, that's just you being too aggressive.

 

[Tunedfrog]

well...you talking about UNsrewing. what if i strip head up once screwing in. and no, I'm not an idiot and not putting ol my power do screw it in.
Great example is the screw which tighten both of the half's of servo horn up. literally 100 out of 100 will screw up the hex socket in it.

If you strip the head as in reaming it out so the allen wrench no longer grabs then cut a slit in it with a Dremel.
If you don't have a Dremel tool then I highly recommend it.

 

[HPIguy]

Well, one at a time
1 - both. if i screw in plastic ( diff case, where gears are, not a diff house.) - i will most likely screw up one of the internal threads in diff case. if i screw metal to metal (most annoying place is a servo horns) - i will strip off the head. even if it 2mm hex socket.
2 - no. OR if i lazy - i can use it to screw in for 75% and hands after it
3 - first two are the same "amazon-edition" 50/100mm. second is Xiomi, third - makita.
View attachment 236633View attachment 236634View attachment 236635View attachment 236636View attachment 236637

Every single one of those shows damage, and are rounded off which is why you're stripping out screw heads. Hex bits need a sharp shoulder to not slip, once they round out like those, they're round file material.

 

[Tunedfrog]

I agree, I've seen better.