Stripped Cooling Head Screw on a Losi 8ight

[Runaway Jim]

Hello. I was putting my cooling head back on the motor today after putting some after run oil in the cylinder I accidently stripped the head of one of the hex screws. Luckily it stripped when it was tightened down but now, the next time I have to take off the head I'm gonna be in a jam. The motor is the Mach 27 that came with my 8ight. Any ideas on how to get this thing out now? I have a set of bits and reverse screw heads for things like this but none are small enough to fit down the cooling head hole. It looks like there may be room to cut the screw off between the bottom of the cooling head and the top of the engine block, maybe with a flat copping saw blade. Anyone ever have this happen and if so, what did you do to get the screw out, short of buying a new engine?

 

[RC Addict]

You are gonna think I am crazy but this will work if you are careful. Get a spare hex driver (or key) of the correct size and some JB Weld. Apply a small amount to the end of the driver and carefully slide it down the hole and into the head of the screw. Use some tape or a rag to support the driver while the JB Weld hardens. When it is hard just back 'er out!

BTW--Next time just remove the glow plug and put a couple drops of oil in that way. Spin the engine a couple times and you are cool. Will save you the trouble of messing up another screw head!

 

[Runaway Jim]

That sounds like the best idead anyone has thrown my way yet. Is JB weld the same as locktight or is it a different product? Do I literally ask for JB well at the hardware store. Sorry, just never heard of it before but again, I understand what you're saying and think it is a great idea! Thanks for the quick response Cody!

hey cody, just looked the stuff up on google. i'm good to go now. will get some at the hardware store down the street tomorrow. thanks again for the great idea and have a good week!

 

[qaart]

yes there is a big diff but jb weld might work a nother way is to get a drill and a small bit drill the head off and just get vice gripes and loosen it and it is called jb weld its about 5-7bucks buy the 15 min 1 the other 1 takes 23hr

 

[RC Addict]

That sounds like the best idead anyone has thrown my way yet. Is JB weld the same as locktight or is it a different product? Do I literally ask for JB well at the hardware store. Sorry, just never heard of it before but again, I understand what you're saying and think it is a great idea! Thanks for the quick response Cody!

hey cody, just looked the stuff up on google. i'm good to go now. will get some at the hardware store down the street tomorrow. thanks again for the great idea and have a good week!

No problem my friend! Let us know how it works out?

 

[beason]

if you can fit a cut off wheel on a dremel in there, or like stated drill the head off the screw. it will allow you to get the egine head off and then use some plyers or something to back the rest of the threaded shaft out. that is if the JB weld doesn't work

 

[marauder]

Seen this one on television before, had to google it but you'll see knockoffs at hardware stores that do the same thing.

http://www.4grabit.com

 

[RC Addict]

Seen this one on television before, had to google it but you'll see knockoffs at hardware stores that do the same thing.

http://www.4grabit.com

Those are nice and I have 'em all but you will never get one down the hole it the head.

 

[marauder]

Good point. I'm not familiar with how big the slot is on the cooling head. Just a possible solution...

Since it's hex, you could also possibly file down a junk allen key that is a size larger than the hole. I've done that before with good results. I'm still backing the JB weld idea though, seen that work many times.

 

[RC Addict]

Good point. I'm not familiar with how big the slot is on the cooling head. Just a possible solution...

Since it's hex, you could also possibly file down a junk allen key that is a size larger than the hole. I've done that before with good results. I'm still backing the JB weld idea though, seen that work many times.

The larger hex key filed down is a good idea too!

 

[qaart]

really if you use jb weld and you miss the bolt you might jb weld the whole thaing

 

[Runaway Jim]

I have the set of grab it bits as well. they were the first thing i reached for but, as mentioned above, they're all too wide around to fit in the hole in the cooling head. it seems that the jb weld is the best idea so far. i've got a cool hand so i think i'll be steady enough to get the stuff down there without welding the inside of the hole as well. if that doesn't work i think the next best thing to try is a flat blade for cutting metal on a copping saw. as long as it's thin enough i can get it in under the bottom of the cooling head and hack it off then reverse out the shaft with some pliers. i hope to pick up the jb today and will let you all know how it goes as soon as surgery is over... thanks again for all the help!

 

[RC Addict]

Let us know how it turns out! The only reservation I would have in using a cutoff wheel is cutting into the top of the mill or through the mating area accidently.

 

[beason]

you can use a small drill bit and put it in the area where the head is stripped. once you eat though the head it will come off and you can slide the cooling head over the leftover threaded part then back it out with some plyers. this should not damager anything but the screw and its already messed up.

 

[qaart]

thats what i said get adrill press be better

 

[biggin]

I had an OS Vspec with the same issue and drilling did indeed work. The heads broke off and I lifted the head off and took a pair of vice grips and turned out the remaining portion of the screw. I tried to use and easy out but there was nothing to grad.

 

[Joeshmoe]

I'm an old redcneck from way back and i find it hard to believe someone has never heard of jb weld back home we use it from everything to fixing false teeth to welding crankshafts lol good luck with ya problem man it sounds like it might work to me.

 

[olds97_lss]

you can use a small drill bit and put it in the area where the head is stripped. once you eat though the head it will come off and you can slide the cooling head over the leftover threaded part then back it out with some plyers. this should not damager anything but the screw and its already messed up.

I've done this 3 or 4 times without a single issue. However, I use a drill bit that is larger (or as large as) the head of the bolt. Going slow to not damage the head and to avoid drilling too far and leave nothing for you to get a hold of.