Stopping 'snatchy' braking on Sidewinder + 5700 BL setup

[Webbage]

I have a problem with my Wheely King brushless setup. If I enable the brake (set 'Brake' to more than 0%) then it's too harsh. Every time I apply the brake (I have it on reverse lockout), or let the stick spring back to neutral, it snatches and causes the transmission to let out a stomach-churning snapping noise (sounds like it's jumping teeth somewhere). It does the same if I let off from reverse too fast, whatever I do.

It hasn't damaged it enough to stop it working at all, but I don't like it all the same.

I have metal gears and HD rings/pinions on the way but I'd rather set the ESC up so it was a bit kinder to the drivetrain if I can. Does anyone know how to ease up the braking so it comes in a bit more gently? Is it just a case of adjusting the brake curve, or am I barking up the wrong tree?

Obviously, extensive testing has the potential to cause more damage, so I'd rather not spend ages of trial and error testing it in case the gearbox or one of the pinions gives the hell up on me.

Thanks!

 

[flm_savage]

i am assuming this is a basher wheely king since you are running a 5700 on it. Why set any brake at all? I let mine coast in neutral and then its proportional when i push the trigger forward.

 

[chip cross]

It is the slipper clutch spring in the Wheely king tranny, I bet money on it. Because you have e-brakes with the brushless setup which you didn't the the stock Wheely King electronics.

 

[Webbage]

i am assuming this is a basher wheely king since you are running a 5700 on it. Why set any brake at all? I let mine coast in neutral and then its proportional when i push the trigger forward.

I'm fast becoming a passed master at handbrake turns I sometimes have to actually stop it in a hurry, to avoid crashing. Trees and telephone poles don't yield a lot when you hit em with a 1/10 electric truck :

I like being able to spin it 360 degrees in a brake slide too, it looks awesome

It is the slipper clutch spring in the Wheely king tranny, I bet money one it. Because you have e-brakes with the brushless setup which you didn't the the stock Wheely King electronics.

Dang me, yeh. I forgot it had a slipper mechanism in the gearbox. Doh, I feel like an idiot now.

What's even worse is I've read so many thread on other forums about people worrying about nasty snapping noises and thought 'don't worry, it's just the slipper jumping over'. *sigh* My head's a mess at the moment.

So if I fit metal gears with the slipper eliminated it ought to cut that out, right? Am I likely to damage anything else?

 

[chip cross]

I'm fast becoming a passed master at handbrake turns I sometimes have to actually stop it in a hurry, to avoid crashing. Trees and telephone poles don't yield a lot when you hit em with a 1/10 electric truck :

I like being able to spin it 360 degrees in a brake slide too, it looks awesome



Dang me, yeh. I forgot it had a slipper mechanism in the gearbox. Doh, I feel like an idiot now.

What's even worse is I've read so many thread on other forums about people worrying about nasty snapping noises and thought 'don't worry, it's just the slipper jumping over'. *sigh* My head's a mess at the moment.

So if I fit metal gears with the slipper eliminated it ought to cut that out, right? Am I likely to damage anything else?

It's a Basher, KEEP the slipper.

 

[Webbage]

That could be awkward. I don't know if the Hot Racing gearset will allow me to dot that :\

Makes me wonder if there's anyway to convert the spur gear carried to take a standard-type slipper clutch instead. It'd make me alot happier than that plastic clicky thinger.

 

[sweetdiesel]

Adjust the brake exponential to have a less linear curve. Basically use negative exponential so that the first 75% of brake input on your controller equals less than 20% brake. That will make your brakes much less touchy.

 

[chip cross]

Or adj. the brake curve on the Sidewinder.

 

[sweetdiesel]

Yep, that's what I meant...will work either way on the ESC or TX.

 

[chip cross]

Yep, that's what I meant...will work either way on the ESC or TX.

Yes sir, I just like to do it with the ESC but that just me.

 

[Webbage]

For reference I use a DX6i with my left vertical as throttle.

Getting this straight in my head... bear with me here. I need to know...

The reverse lockout means any downward stick movement past neutral applies the brakes, according to the brake curve on the ESC, right?

On the Sidewinder, you can set the Brake Amount (in %) and also the Brake Curve. You can also set the Drag Brake setting. How does the Drag Brake and the normal Brake differ?

I know Drag Brakes are important to stop backwards-roll on a crawler, but how do they effect his scenario? Should I turn them off?

When dropping out of reverse, back to neutral, I assume the motor just 'stops'. It doesn't work according to the Brake, right?

I'm paying attention, takin notes, readin me some books, gettin me some edumucation

 

[chip cross]

For reference I use a DX6i with my left vertical as throttle.

Getting this straight in my head... bear with me here. I need to know...

The reverse lockout means any downward stick movement past neutral applies the brakes, according to the brake curve on the ESC, right?

On the Sidewinder, you can set the Brake Amount (in %) and also the Brake Curve. You can also set the Drag Brake setting. How does the Drag Brake and the normal Brake differ?

I know Drag Brakes are important to stop backwards-roll on a crawler, but how do they effect his scenario? Should I turn them off?

When dropping out of reverse, back to neutral, I assume the motor just 'stops'. It doesn't work according to the Brake, right?

I'm paying attention, takin notes, readin me some books, gettin me some edumucation

Do you have a Castle link ?

 

[Webbage]

Do you have a Castle link ?

Yes. I do.

 

[chip cross]

Yes. I do.

use it.

Rev lockout means you have to have 2nds of rev before it goes backwards. You don't really need drag brake on a basher. You can adj. the amount of brake stopping power with the % amount.

 

[Webbage]

use it.

Just you watch it my old sonny-me-laddo-jim-bob-hope-springs-eternal-damnation-dalmatian-carnegie-flower-arrangement-ming-vase... or I'll... I'll... button you up like a cheap shirt!!

I'm not Rolex, I do actually use my R/C stuff from time to time! How do you expect me to know all the junk I just spouted anyway?

Here, have a screenshot:

As you can see I have the 'Brake' off at the moment (set to 0%). The 'Drag Brake' is also off. As you rightly said it's pointless having that on a basher unless you bash on steep hills

If I set any brake at all I get a snatch in the drive train, as I described in the original post.

My 'Brake' curve is set as a straight line atm, as they are from stock.

Rev lockout means you have to have 2nds of rev before it goes backwards.

I believe 'Proportional w/ Reverse Lockout' stops the truck and it just sits there until you return throttle to *neutral* for 2 seconds, *then* you have to pull back into reverse again before it'll actually move in reverse. It says that in the Castle Link software, see

The HPI EN-15 that comes as stock on the Wheely King is the same.

You don't really need drag brake on a basher. You can adj. the amount of brake stopping power with the % amount.

Sorry, I appreciate the advices and I am taking notes here, but the way my mind works requires me to know what something does and how it works before I can understand if I do or don't need it, hence all the questions above. Then again I could read the fine manual (aka RTFM).

 

[Webbage]

Follow-up Alert:

I actually found using smaller wheels and tyres stopped this happening. I'm running 2.8" Traxxas Victory Wheels/Tyres (rears off of a JATO) and it's not doing it now. Guess the smaller wheels mean less transmission drag.