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Steering problem...S.O.S. !!

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bigsouljaslim13

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I have a rs4 3 18ss and I've been having problems with my steering.. when i get above 10mph it starts to swerve side to side, I've tried 3 different servos and all.. and if i get to like 40 it starts to turn to the right, its like the servo is too weak to hold it self in the middle or something ( its a futuba 3004) ... Does anyone know why this is doing this? I've been trying to figure it out for a few days now and i can't figure it out... any help would be much appreciated..
 
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I dont know to much about on road cars but it sounds like it is in your setting of your car.... camber, tires, ect...
 
set your toe in and your chamber just make sure your wheels are straight and make your wheels slighty tilted into the care take a tape measure out and measure the front of the wheels seam to seam then measure the back of the wheel seam to seam and make them match
 
which way do u mean

ah... that could be it... i remember i changed some of the linkage a while back b/c they werent perfectly strait. when u mean slightly tilted in do you mean like where the wheel touches the ground tilt ( pic1 ) or like the wheels pointing inwards towards eachother in pic2
 

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set your toe in and your chamber just make sure your wheels are straight and make your wheels slighty tilted into the care take a tape measure out and measure the front of the wheels seam to seam then measure the back of the wheel seam to seam and make them match

Exactly

Both wheels must point straight,not inwards not outwards.

Any car with wheels set anything close to pic 2 will runk like a pile aof steaming you know what.Also the tire should make perfect contact with a flat surface,this is not off road where the tire bites into soft soil.
 
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You might want 1 degree of toe to help with cutting in on the corners, but both of those pics have horrible toe in... or out depending on which one you look at. With either of those settings, it will want to wander all over the place at almost any speed.
 
OOOOOOOhhhhhhhhhhh.... sorry about that.

Believe me, I've seen guys actually try to run with stuff like that. Not the smartest guys... but I've seen it none-the-less.
 
Ok, Heres some info i picked up recently that applies to both nitro and electric touring R/C

for on road (tarmac) racing, you need a maximum of 1.5 Deg toe in (wheels pointing inward at front).
The maximimum camber should be 1.8 degrees either negative (pointing in at top of wheel) or positive (pointing out at top of wheel).

HOWEVER, the above varies during wirther conditions and/or track surface quality. It can also (though not by much) be reliant on ride height.


TOE IN:

This is basically what keeps the vehicle in a straight line when set correctly. As in 1/1 this is critical. If the vehicles steerable (usually only two and always at the front) wheels have no toe in, then the vehicle will "Wander". The toe in, is also helped by the camber of the wheel. When these two intricate settings are perfect, then the wheel will feed itslef onto the suface in such a way as to "Grip" it, therefore aiding the car in "Tracking" in a straight line and helping he vehicle corner at speed. The rear wheels (driven or undriven) have a standard setting usually un adjustable, but set specifically to aid road handlig similar to that of the steerable wheels.

When applied to R/C model vehicles, these settings can (and often are) used at the rear of the vehicle also.

All of the above applies to 2wd or 4wd vehicles.

In off road running for say.. a buggy, these settings can also be utilised, but only where this is an included setup option can it be utilised at the rear.
 
I think it is the front diff. He mentioned the pulling at higher speeds.
 
Pulling at high speeds, can be caused not just by a diff, if it was the diff, it would do it at lowr speeds. It could be put down to an illfitting tyre, the suspension being poorly setup, the steering tie rods being mal adjusted (again pulling would be noticable at low speed), OR, it could be (if installed) a gummed up/worn out bearing.

Theres a lot to consider with ANY vehicle be it R/c or 1/1 the problems suffered can sometimes be one and the same thing.

My advice would be to completely strip out th front end and rebuild it going through each componant to check for wear and/or damage. Its probably the only way to totally rule anything out. While the assembly is apart it can be cleaned and rebuilt with accuracy.

An easy way to get steering rod accuracy is to use a digital vernier gauge to check that each steering rod is the same length, and also that the suspension geometry is matching either side where turnbuckles are used for adjustments.

Hope this helps
 
you may want to check the rear toe settings. they should be toed in slightly. if they are toed out it will wander like you described also. other than that, i would say just set everything straight and level to rule that out. then start looking at the teeth in the servo horn. if that's not it, check the servo itself. sometimes when the gears strip it will work intermittantly causing the same wandering effect. another thing to check would be wheel hexes. they'll do it too if they're stripped. if none of that fixes it, tear it all down and check the diff as RR suggested.
 
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