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Steering help for MBX5

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rcracingglitch

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I have an MBX5 and an somewhat new to this buggy. I have no steering in it and I am wondering if it is due to my diff weight? I have 3000 in the front, 10,000 in the middle and 1,000 in the rear. Will this make my buggy push and not have any steering? need help on diff oil and and steering suggestions!!
 
Are you new to the hobby, or just the MBX-5? I run 5/7/2 in my Prospec, and it seems to work pretty well on about any track I take it to. I would first play with the radio, and/or servo. Did you center the servo before putting the horn on? Have you adjusted the EPA on the Tx? If you want to get really tricky the front knuckles can be modded to increase the max. steering by dremeling out one edge of the knuckle where the pivot ball comes threw. Turn the tires all the way in one direction, and notice the pivot ball shaft hits in the back, but on the other tire it doesn't hit in the front. (or vise versa, I can't remember for sure) Then turn the wheels the other way, and see the same thing. Some racers take half the distance left in the front (or rear if I have it backwards) off of the rear so they can max. thier turning radius. Some where on RCNT there was a link with pics of this mod. If I find it I'll post it here.
 
your steering is only effective up to about a 40 degree angle after that it has bad effects, starts ploughing or pushing, heres an insight to steering setup for you, if u want more steering, narrow the front of the car up, give your car less caster, give your car more toe out, softer springs in the front( will help car keep traction but will not have a positive feeling, car maybecome unpredictable) the dremmeling out only really works at low speed
 
Sorry about this question...what is caster?? and what is toe out?? I want more steering in my PBS and mike seems to make some good suggestions. Thanks!
 
if what your saying is he's using terms you dont know and it sounds good then sure.

castor is the angle your steering knuckle pivots on in relationship to vertical. toe out is the included angle of your tires when pointed straight ahead. if your tires point out in the front, this is considered toe out. to decrease your caster, remove some shims from the front of your upper arm, and place them behind the arm instead.
 
first get some 5000 in front
and stay with it, working further on the other diffs later

less then 5000 up front, is known to give problems having no steering
 
Last edited:
CorradoPsi said:
if what your saying is he's using terms you dont know and it sounds good then sure.

castor is the angle your steering knuckle pivots on in relationship to vertical. toe out is the included angle of your tires when pointed straight ahead. if your tires point out in the front, this is considered toe out. to decrease your caster, remove some shims from the front of your upper arm, and place them behind the arm instead.
By this coment i would say you dont agree with what i have said
 
mikeburgin said:
By this coment i would say you dont agree with what i have said

actually mike i agree completely.

i was picking on the guy for saying what you said sounded good, when he didnt know what you were saying.
 
try removing the front sway bar - and what hole are u on on the ackmen arm ?
 
Make sure your servo saver spring is tight, and has loctite on it.. 2mm (stock setting) is pretty conservative...I'd recommend 3-4mm.

Make sure you've got a strong steering servo.. 100oz or more.

Get a set of the brand new A-arms and Front Uprights.. They allow a tighter turning radius.
 
What are you talking about "new A-arms, and front uprights"?

I have a prospec, and my buddy has a non prospec MBX-5. They are set up almost identical, and his turns sharper?!?!?!?!
 
tighter turning radius has nothing to do with it, i can turn my throws down to 70% and it still turns the same at speed or on the track, it only increase my turning at stand still speeds with full throw, on the track i would be surprised if i ever use full turn on the control, for race tunning having a tight turning radius is not actually that importart, since you use the engine and brakes quite alot to steer
 
I'll try to get somepics of the track, put the 180's are tight, and a smaller turning radius would help.
 
dial in a little more rear brake, and adapt your driving style. also generating more off power steering will help, this will allow you to lift off the gas and the rear end will come around more readily. i use my brakes maybe in 2 spots on our track but there are plenty of 180's, just have to know when to lift off and crank the wheel.
 
The MBX-5, and all buggies, have a certain maximum angle that their suspension/steering will allow the wheels to turn (resulting in a certain turning radius).

Mugen is very good about doing running upgrades to their kits, and has recently released (within the past couple weeks) a new set of A-arms and Front Uprights that allow a greater maximum angle, thus a tighter turning radius.. The new arms/uprights are the same part number as the old ones, and will be in all new kits.
 
and how much more radius does this upgrade give u ????????? its fine knowing its there but what does it give you
 
Currently I'm running a track in a friends yard. It is pretty small, but good practice. I'll post some pics of it when I get a chance.

So, any suggestions on what would give me more off power steering.

By the way my prospec is newer than my buddies, and his turns tighter.
 
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