savage x need spur gear recommendations to minimize wheelies?

[pelicanprentice]

hey all today i was bashing the savage x in a nearby field/park. i believe i found my new fav place now. however i ended up melting the plastic stock spur gear. i dint know how tight it was or anything so not sure how that happened, i was playing for 2 tanks pretty aggressive in grass about 6 inches of grass i would say. so now i guess i need a new spur gear or whatever and am looking for recommendations. if possible i would like to find one that will minimize the chance of wheelies because i like my truck to stay planted on the ground. when my tune is running perfectly, it wheelies super easily, so i am hoping to control that with the new spur gear

thanks!

 

[tntpoof]

did you check the internet. I found many of them ..from 46t to 48t steel ones. to cut down on wheelies id go 46... if stock was 48 robinson racing makes them

 

[pelicanprentice]

did you check the internet. I found many of them ..from 46t to 48t steel ones. to cut down on wheelies id go 46... if stock was 48 robinson racing makes them

thanks for the reply! yeah sorry i just didnt know which one would be recommended to cut down on wheelies and to run in grass.

 

[tntpoof]

going down in teeth on spur will give you more torque but can also give you more wheelies and lower top end. Id think someone would want that for grass. ull just need to control trigger finger

 

[monstertruckier15]

It's best to change the clutch 2-3 more teeth than change the spur gear size.

 

[pelicanprentice]

i checked my stock and it was 47t spur and 17t clutch bell, i assume this is too high for grass,
i picked up a steel 48t at my local lhs but they dont have any clutch bells, any recommendation on what size i should get for clutch bell? this is strictly for grass usage

 

[monstertruckier15]

I usually drop the clutch 1-2 teeth. nd that is good. Going larger on spur will changer the gearing more. As for temp problems. You need more oil lube.

 

[NCNitro]

As for temp problems. You need more oil lube.

Once again, bad info, oil burns hotter than the methyl alcohol and nitromethane, by adding more oil your temp is going to go up. So enough already pushing the more oil narrative in every nitro post.

 

[Greywolf74]

A couple of bad statements about gearing are being made here. Going less teeth on the spur or more teeth on your clutch bell will give you less torque but more top end which is what you want for lessening the wheelies. less torque equals less wheelies. Savages love to wheelie

As for melting your spur gear your clutch shoes are probably slipping alot more than normal because of all the resistance from the grass. This will eventually get the clutchbell hot enough to melt the spur. And before you go slapping a metal spur gear on it just know that the spur gears are plastic because they are meant to be the first thing that fails in the event that something in your drive line isnt right. Id rather melt a spur gear than tear up a diff or a transmission. Just my .02

 

[monstertruckier15]

Once again, bad info, oil burns hotter than the methyl alcohol and nitromethane, by adding more oil your temp is going to go up. So enough already pushing the more oil narrative in every nitro post.

FYI all you need to know!
http://nitrorc.com/fuelws/

Meth flash point 49.5 degrees
nitro flash point 95 degrees
castor oil/ synthetic oil flash point 445 degrees.

 

[D3MON]

FYI all you need to know!
http://nitrorc.com/fuelws/

Meth flash point 95 degrees
nitro flash 49.5 degrees
castor oil/ synthetic oil flash point 445 degrees.

your first unedited comment before you added "synthetic oil" to the equation was more correct, synthetic oil has a lower flash point than castor oil, thats why engines running more synthetic oil are cleaner after running, because more of the oil burns off, but is still higher temp than methanol and nitromethane.
your proof is contradicting what you are trying to prove still, oil burns hotter, causing the temperature to rise because its trying to burn the oil as well.
combined with the excess strain of trying to compress the extra oil makes the engine work harder, driving up the temperature still.
would like you to provide an example of proof where you arent using an already worn out engine and relying on the extra oil to build any compression at all like you have done so previously, and saying low oil content is bad when it flames out while the engine is running correctly and flames out because it has such a lack of compression.

 

[Greywolf74]

i checked my stock and it was 47t spur and 17t clutch bell, i assume this is too high for grass,
i picked up a steel 48t at my local lhs but they dont have any clutch bells, any recommendation on what size i should get for clutch bell? this is strictly for grass usage

I just noticed this post. If you're going to be running in grass then the more torque the better. more torque will give you less clutch shoe slippage which will keep your clutchbell from heating up and melting your spur gear. grass, especially tall grass, is hard on your clutch. in order to get the most torque you want the largest spur and the smallest clutchbell you can get. This will however make your wheelie problem worse.

As for the engine oil/engine temp debate its kind of a moot point in this particular instance because I'm pretty sure it wasn't his engine running hot that melted the spur gear anyway. just my .02

 

[monstertruckier15]

Which is what I recommended. He is stripping the teeth on the spur gear. As for temp the engine temp is getting to high and running less oil lube can raise the temperature along with high nitro. He is not racing. Just backyard bashing. All facts posted in the link on fuel.

 

[Greywolf74]

Am I missing something because I dont see where the OP posted anything about engine temps being high? Thats why I was saying its a moot point. As for the gearing yes you did say that but other said things that were not correct so I was just clarifying

 

[monstertruckier15]

Same truck Another tread. Just easier to post all info on every post so he can see.

 

[NCNitro]

Same truck Another tread. Just easier to post all info on every post so he can see.

Actually no, it's not, it's confusing. Also, he never said he stripped the gear, he said he melted it. Once again, do you have a savage? The spur gears will actually melt around the screw that holds them on without stripping the gear, and it is NOT caused from engine temp.

 

[NCNitro]

Which is what I recommended. He is stripping the teeth on the spur gear.

No. He is melting it, huge difference.

 

[monstertruckier15]

http://nitrorc.com/fuelws/]
Oil content is one of the largest factors in engine temperature and generally speaking, the higher the oil percentage, the lower the engine temperature. Finding that perfect blend is a matter of trial and error, because the more oil you put in your fuel, the less percentage there is of other ingredients.

 

[NCNitro]

http://nitrorc.com/fuelws/]
Oil content is one of the largest factors in engine temperature and generally speaking, the higher the oil percentage, the lower the engine temperature. Finding that perfect blend is a matter of trial and error, because the more oil you put in your fuel, the less percentage there is of other ingredients.

None of that makes a bit of difference when he is melting the spur gear, it has nothing to do with oil. The spur gear is mounted to the tranny. How are you not understanding this?

 

[Greywolf74]

I didnt realize that it melted around the screw. I was thinking he melted the cogs off the spur gear cuz once on my original LST2 I had 2 bearings in the tranny that seized up and was putting so much drag in the drive line my clutch shoes were slipping really bad which was heating up the clutchbell and melting the spur. Thats why I'm constantly warning people about using things like metal spurs, metal a-arms, bumpers etc cuz some parts need to be breakable so you break cheap parts instead of costly ones.