Safe Motor temp??

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hulkmaxx

Wanna know my secrect. I'm always ANGRY!
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2,159
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Location
Grantsville West Virgina
RC Driving Style
  1. Bashing
Okay guys I have a motor temp issue. Did some light trailing tonight in my yard on some pretty steep hills. I have noticed my motor is most definitely getting hot, after about 10 minutes or so I noticed a hot electronic smell coming from the rig no smoke or anything like that. I grabbed my temp gauge I use on the nitro's and temped the motor at the can in rear. I got a 230 degree reading which I know is way to hot. The ESC is staying cool as could be. I am still new to this electric stuff so I need some help here guys. This is on the rig UI installed the Gmade portals on. Could it be my gearing may be higher with these axles installed. It does seem to have a higher top speed then what it had before. I pulled the spur and checked for bent or binding in all the drive line and trans. Everything is spinning freely, nothing looks bent. I am running a 20c 5000 mah 2s Lipo same battery I run on my other scx10 with no temp problems. I have no idea how much run time is on this motor because I received the rig used. I am kinda at a loss of what to do here. The esc is a Novak, of some sort. The motor is an Atomik 35T, pinion is from my count an 18t and spur from my count is an 89t. I don't know if that's high gearing for a 35t motor or not. Like I said I think the Gmade axles might have put my gear ratio up some.
 
i would go to a 14 tooth......that should get you where you need to be.
 
Thanks man I found a 14 may order several different ones. Is the 48pitch pinion what I need right. So I'm taking it that what I have now is a pretty high gearing right?
 
Could it possibly be a dirty or loose connection somewhere between the motor and other electronics? I had a problem with my first used Castle MM getting to hot, turns out the banana plugs that go to the esc where not tight enough and generating a lot of heat. I cleaned them with some scotchbrite and spread the male end open with some pliers, problem was solved.
 
I checked all the wiring and connections everything seems to be tight. Everything is pretty clean also. Thought about trying to clean out the motor, not sure how. Seen some vids of people just dropping them in a glass of water and letting them run kinda like the water break in method. Didn't think I would have over heating problems more with electrics then my nitro's LOL!:hehe:
 
I just noticed one of my links lock nut is touching the can of the motor not on a connection or anything its just touching the motor can could this be causing the overheating problem by since the screw goes through the metal chassis? I ran it last night with out the body did not see any sparks or anything. I sprayed the motor out with motor cleaner didn't seem to help much. The motor is losing power to like a low battery but I know the battery is fully charged. Could it be that lock nut touching the motor can or maybe my motor is just worn out? I can get a replacement motor of the same brand and turn for like $10.00. I am going to drop my gearing down also and try that.
 
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Getting hot and loosing power sounds like a motor problem. If it's a rebuildable motor take it apart clean and lube the bearings buy new brushes. If you're like me you don't have a com lathe you can lock the armature into a drill and as it spins used a piece of sandpaper to lightly clean the com.

Being that your motor is hot and the esc is not gearing probably caused the problem.
 
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It sounds like a worn motor. Since the chassis isn't grounded like a 1:1 I doubt that the nut is doing anything electrically. Try upgrading the motor with a new one that has replaceable brushes.
 
Thank you guys for all the help! I ordered a 14t pinion this morning. Getting ready to order my motor thinking about the Integy 35t high torque. Hope the 14t pinion is low enough gearing.:D
 
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Found this Integy motor online and this Tekin 35t what do you guys recommend. Here's the pic's View attachment 13227 The Integy says it's a single wound 35 turn pro lathe motor, is this the good one Integy makes for the crawlers.
 
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both should be fine, i have the Tekin in my TF2
 
I just went a head and ordered another Atomic 35T motor like the one that was in it. I mainly did this well one it was only 12 dollars with shipping, and two I still am trying to decide on the twin motor setup. I figure I should get enough run time from the new Atomic motor while funding builds for the twin setup.
 

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