Rustler 2wd vxl build

[Zedd]

Hey guys new here and freshly back into rc cars running a Rustler vxl with 2 cell 5800 mah lipo car is fast I love it. What are so awesome building upgrades?. Also is it common for the clutch to slip running belted 2.8 badlands?. How do I fix that?

 

[WickedFog]

Give the slipper adjustment nut on the spur gear a half turn or so and run it. Changing to a more aggressive tire puts more strain on the drivetrain, so your slipper is just trying to protect your rig, and working a bit harder now. Tightening it will however send some of that strain back towards your drivetrain components. If you changed your tire diameter, you changed your final drive ratio. You should keep an eye on motor temps. Going above 160°F is getting into the danger zone.

My advice would be to drive it til something breaks. You might break some A-arms, turnbuckles, shock shafts, shock caps, spur gear, or any number of things on it. Ya never know. You might go ahead and grab some RPM arms for it. They are pretty cheap and fairly indestructible.

Stay away ftom aluminum arms, or aluminum for anything that is hanging out there and can get bent, or transfer a hard hit to a weaker component. Plastic parts flex and absorb impacts. Aluminum... not so much. But aluminum uprights, steering knuckles, hubs, bulkheads, etc are typically good upgrades.

 

[Chubaka]

Welcome. Scuff the slipper pads with aggressive sand paper. It could also be loose.

 

[Zedd]

Give the slipper adjustment nut on the spur gear a half turn or so and run it. Changing to a more aggressive tire puts more strain on the drivetrain, so your slipper is just trying to protect your rig, and working a bit harder now. Tightening it will however send some of that strain back towards your drivetrain components. If you changed your tire diameter, you changed your final drive ratio. You should keep an eye on motor temps. Going above 160°F is getting into the danger zone.

My advice would be to drive it til something breaks. You might break some A-arms, turnbuckles, shock shafts, shock caps, spur gear, or any number of things on it. Ya never know. You might go ahead and grab some RPM arms for it. They are pretty cheap and fairly indestructible.

Stay away ftom aluminum arms, or aluminum for anything that is hanging out there and can get bent, or transfer a hard hit to a weaker component. Plastic parts flex and absorb impacts. Aluminum... not so much. But aluminum uprights, steering knuckles, hubs, bulkheads, etc are typically good upgrades.

Excellent thanks now I have a new issue the esc is blinking red once then twice then three times tried my other battery same thing

 

[WickedFog]

Excellent thanks now I have a new issue the esc is blinking red once then twice then three times tried my other battery same thing

Did you put bigger tires on it?

 

[Zedd]

Did you put bigger tires on it?

Yes ran it successfully on 2.8 MT traxxas talons then half way through this charge it just stopped. Wasn't hot to the touch.

 

[WickedFog]

You can try resetting the ESC and recalibrating it. It should be in your manual on how to do that.

But when you turn the radio on... is the throttle trim knob at neutral? If not, the car won't turn on. Always turn radio on first, and make sure throttle trim is at neutral, then turn on the car. Turn off in reverse order. Always.

 

[Zedd]

You can try resetting the ESC and recalibrating it. It should be in your manual on how to do that.

But when you turn the radio on... is the throttle trim knob at neutral? If not, the car won't turn on. Always turn radio on first, and make sure throttle trim is at neutral, then turn on the car. Turn off in reverse order. Always.

Thanks I'll try that

 

[Heisenburg]

I built 2 Heisenburg Cup Race cars. https://www.rctalk.com/forum/threads/trying-it-your-way.127300/post-1257954 (Actually, that is the number I own, I actually have built 4 so far)
The biggest thing I did, was to move the ESC to the front for better weight distribution. It is a paved track racer, and where the esc was made it handle like a wheel chair. Another thing you can do is, even if you don't decide to move your ESC, take it it off, and the platform, and cut that plastic wall that limits your battery size. You can use a block of foam to make up the size, and even use it as a way to change the weight distribution by putting the foam in front of or behind the battery.
I have an ESC fan, and dual motor fans. Aluminum front bulkhead, heavy duty control arm pins, aluminum axle and bearing carriers,and RPM front and rear control arms. I used stickier tyres in the rear to come out of the corners faster.
I also added 2 headlites to the RPM front bumper, turned upside down, and 2 tail lites on the rear motor guard. Traxxas later copied these ideas, possibly from me.
As for my 2 beauty Rustlers, that's another story, and no one cares.

 

[Zedd]

Thanks that's an amazing idea moving the ESC up to help the weight distribution, I'm definitely learning I need heat management as well with my mixed course pavement to dirt and back rally heavy braking and acceleration

 

[Heisenburg]

You will need esc extender extension cables for that, I think I used 6 inch or 9 inch long, you might want to measure. For velineon 3500, I think the bullet connector size is 3.5mm, but could be 4mm. The battery cable should reach ok, and that's good, best to keep the battery cables as short as possible.
Here is the HPE 0002. (Heisenburg Performance Enhanced) https://www.rctalk.com/forum/threads/racers-unite.128285/post-1264509 The 2nd one I built had a blue theme, and kept the stock VXL 3 velineon system. Might be easier to illustrate my work. The fans were added later.

 

[Zedd]

That is one clean build I may have to replicate that just because it's awesome

 

[Heisenburg]

Hey, I needed 4 Rustlers 2wd to satisfy my thirst. And a 4x4. I think they made the 4x4 Rustler because every warranty card I filled out asked what I want them to build next. i always said 4 wheel drive Rustler.

 

[Zedd]

My next build will absolutely be the 4wd

 

[DavidB1126]

Heres mine currently. I am running a HW max10 (60A sensorless) and 3652 4000kv motor, 16/86 gearing. Duratrax Lockups and Traxxas anacondas and alot of RPM and Aluminum upgrades.

 

[Zedd]

Hey guys new here and freshly back into rc cars running a Rustler vxl with 2 cell 5800 mah lipo car is fast I love it. What are so awesome building upgrades?. Also is it common for the clutch to slip running belted 2.8 badlands?. How do I fix that?

Ok update fixed the silly esc issue. Resetting worked fine, I tuned in the clutch for less slipping ordered a fan kit for the esc and motor

 

[Heisenburg]

You will have to grind away the motor bell housing to fit the esc fans. See my builds, or , you'll see what I mean when you get it. No big deal.

 

[Zedd]

I like the transmission housing in the blue car you built this one doesn't have the newer magnum so if I have to modify it no problem and upgrades are available. I noticed I had motor wires rubbing shocks and found this

Hey guys new here and freshly back into rc cars running a Rustler vxl with 2 cell 5800 mah lipo car is fast I love it. What are so awesome building upgrades?. Also is it common for the clutch to slip running belted 2.8 badlands?. How do I fix that?

Update these tires are awesome I may do a smidgen of gear reduction, heat management is on the way and is most definitely needed. I'm still running 2s is 3s going to be a bigger problem?

 

[pug]

I do not recommend running 3s, the drivetrain simply cannot handle it, i ran 3s with tires much smaller than yours and blew a diff and an input gear plus many driveshafts.

 

[Greywolf74]

3S is ok on road with proper sized street tires but other than that I agree with pug...keep it on 2S.

Id put RPM A-Arms on it, RPM front bumper, RPM (or aluminum) caster blocks and front and rear bearing carriers, RPM (or aluminum) bulkhead, RPM (or aluminum) shock towers, aluminum shocks with TiNi shock shafts, MIP steel half shafts, Hot Racing transmission housing, and Id take black RIT dye and dye the grey chassis parts.