Roto start port blocked by muffler am I missing something?

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NoobNitro

RC Newbie
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Hi,
I just picked up a collection of Nitro cars and it seems as though the roto start port is thoroughly blocked by the muffler on one of them
Am I missing something? Is there another way I'd be able to start this engine?
The second one the port is partially blocked by the wheel but I guess it's ok to just push wheel out of the way with the shaft on this one? Thans so much for any help with this. I'm almost a complete novice with Nitro cars.
Photo May 30, 10 07 40 AM.jpg
Photo May 30, 10 07 45 AM.jpg
 
Welcome to the site. Hpi rs4 belt drive? If
It is, those parts are harder to get then the shaft version.

I would go this route, if they have it for your motor, I'm assuming is a 15fe.

https://sullivanproducts.com/sullivan-products-tiger-drive/

You can also go pull start. I've used hpi roto start, traxxas ez start, and pull start. Nothing beats the pull start and an igniter, imo.
 
Welcome aboard,

Chubaka once again nailed it.

Mind sharing what all models you picked up? If you need any ID'd, I can doooo
 
Thanks for the replies. I guess the thing is that the person who owned the car before must have been starting it as is somehow. I'd rather not put a pull start on it and would prefer to use what's already there I just am having trouble figuring out how he was starting the car. I can't ask them is it was at an estate sale.
And yes it is a belt drive. I don't have the experience to confirm motor type

I got 3 hpi bodies image attached.

One of them has a pull start that will not pull. seems to have a seized engine, any advice on possibly freeing that up would be much appreciated.

They are a Rush Evo rtr 2wd stadium truck, an RS4 super nitro (that has the roto start blocked by the muffler) and an unidentified one that is very similar to the RS4 that has the seized engine.

I owned an HPI truggy a couple of years ago, it was a blast when it would run but I was never able to get it to consistently stay running.
 

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That other onroad from what I can see on this small phone, is tamiya. As for the seized engine, the correct method that won't do further damage, involves removing engine, exhaust, pullstarr, quick summary; you want the engine bare, in order to soak it submerged, carb without a filter, glow plug removed, etc. Or, send it to me, I'll work my proven methods, and if no mechanical failure caused the seize, continue reconditioning
 
Well, problem solved. Thank you Chubaka your link to the shaft got me thinking I should just try forcing the one I have into that slot and just pry the muffler away a bit with it and viola I got the shaft in there. Noob indeed.

Can you guys recomend a battery charger for the roto battery? It's a 6 cell Nicad pack. Also any suggestions about the pull starter being stuck, it's def. not the pull itself already removed and tried it. The engine won't rotate.
Can't wait to get these things running so my kids can yawn at me and tell me they'd rather play Roblox.
 

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Your truck
https://www.hpiracing.com/en/kit/10511


Super nitro rs4
https://www.hpiracing.com/en/kit/484

Hpi has a standard parts tab that lists parts for your cars.


The only way I see starting is is to disconnect the muffler. If you do, wear hearing protection. I personally wouldnt.

You may be able to buy another pipe and header. You might also be abl to swap exhausts from the truck.

Purple motor should be second batch of 15fe, truck should be t15, also a chance of t or g3.0.

Both hpis are discontinued, I would stock up on one of each part, plus a few arms, drive shafts etc.
 
That other onroad from what I can see on this small phone, is tamiya. As for the seized engine, the correct method that won't do further damage, involves removing engine, exhaust, pullstarr, quick summary; you want the engine bare, in order to soak it submerged, carb without a filter, glow plug removed, etc. Or, send it to me, I'll work my proven methods, and if no mechanical failure caused the seize, continue reconditioning
Thank you. What do I soak it in? Here are more images of the third one. The bodies that came with the bundle are all hpi and on Traxass truck body.
There are two HPI remotes and a remote that says Cen Mirage on it and Traxass remote. What would be involved with sending it to you?
 

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Thank you. What do I soak it in? Here are more images of the third one. The bodies that came with the bundle are all hpi and on Traxass truck body.
There are two HPI remotes and a remote that says Cen Mirage on it and Traxass remote. What would be involved with sending it to you?
Simply detach the engine, I can walk you through that if needed, remove the throttle linkage on the carb, fuel line from carb, unless your up for shipping the whole car, I am up for either, and offer reconditioning services as in depth as you wish
 
Simply detach the engine, I can walk you through that if needed, remove the throttle linkage on the carb, fuel line from carb, unless your up for shipping the whole car, I am up for either, and offer reconditioning services as in depth as you wish
thanks. I'd like to try and soak it at home first, what would you recomend soaking it in? If that doesn't work maybe I'll send to you if it makes sense cost wise.
Your truck
https://www.hpiracing.com/en/kit/10511


Super nitro rs4
https://www.hpiracing.com/en/kit/484

Hpi has a standard parts tab that lists parts for your cars.


The only way I see starting is is to disconnect the muffler. If you do, wear hearing protection. I personally wouldnt.

You may be able to buy another pipe and header. You might also be abl to swap exhausts from the truck.

Purple motor should be second batch of 15fe, truck should be t15, also a chance of t or g3.0.

Both hpis are discontinued, I would stock up on one of each part, plus a few arms, drive shafts etc.
thank you!
 
thanks. I'd like to try and soak it at home first, what would you recomend soaking it in? If that doesn't work maybe I'll send to you if it makes sense cost wise.

thank you!
Old nitro fuel, bit of pb blaster, and a dash of acetone is my concoction, eats rusty grime out of the crank bearings, I submerge the opened engine and seal off in a container other than thin plastic or foam, after a day I shake it up, and repeat daily for 72hrs or more, before removing engine, flushing it, lubing it up with rod and reel oil/ heating it with a heat gun on low for a few mins, and attempt to rotate the crank
First let's do this. remove glow plug, and air filter, spray something like wd40 or similar down plug hole, and carb with throttle blade opened. Use a hair dryer or preferably heat gun and evenly warm the entire engine block which sides you can get at without melting surrounding plastic components, and the heat sink head. Try to turn it over not by the recoil handle, but by the flywheel, as to not break the recoil spring or rope.
 
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Old nitro fuel, bit of pb blaster, and a dash of acetone is my concoction, eats rusty grime out of the crank bearings, I submerge the opened engine and seal off in a container other than thin plastic or foam, after a day I shake it up, and repeat daily for 72hrs or more, before removing engine, flushing it, lubing it up with rod and reel oil/ heating it with a heat gun on low for a few mins, and attempt to rotate the crank
First let's do this. remove glow plug, and air filter, spray something like wd40 or similar down plug hole, and carb with throttle blade opened. Use a hair dryer or preferably heat gun and evenly warm the entire engine block which sides you can get at without melting surrounding plastic components, and the heat sink head. Try to turn it over not by the recoil handle, but by the flywheel, as to not break the recoil spring or rope.
Thanks I've taken the off the plate that covers the starter rod so I can see the piston and the heat sink and see the crank as well. Have been letting that sit in penetrating oil for a while and it's bound up pretty good. Not budging using the flywheel. I'll try some heat next. It's pretty gooped up in there, blackened thick molasses.
 
Nice cars! Enjoy!

Some of those roto starts came with the rotor installed in the corner, rather that in the middle.
They are hard to find, I have only one, and had the same issue as you.
Luckily I have only one car for which this was an issue, rest I got away with the middle rotor, and just have to angle the shaft slightly to fit it in.
 
I got the corner roto start also. The dogbone bit is long gone. Never recalled any clearence issues.
 
That super is begging for a rear round port exhuast, full mod Italian .12
 
That super is begging for a rear round port exhuast, full mod Italian .12
Sorry not sure what you mean, is the super the one we have been talking about with the stuck motor? Have you got a link to what you are suggesting to install there?
Thanks I've taken the off the plate that covers the starter rod so I can see the piston and the heat sink and see the crank as well. Have been letting that sit in penetrating oil for a while and it's bound up pretty good. Not budging using the flywheel. I'll try some heat next. It's pretty gooped up in there, blackened thick molasses.
Old nitro fuel, bit of pb blaster, and a dash of acetone is my concoction, eats rusty grime out of the crank bearings, I submerge the opened engine and seal off in a container other than thin plastic or foam, after a day I shake it up, and repeat daily for 72hrs or more, before removing engine, flushing it, lubing it up with rod and reel oil/ heating it with a heat gun on low for a few mins, and attempt to rotate the crank
First let's do this. remove glow plug, and air filter, spray something like wd40 or similar down plug hole, and carb with throttle blade opened. Use a hair dryer or preferably heat gun and evenly warm the entire engine block which sides you can get at without melting surrounding plastic components, and the heat sink head. Try to turn it over not by the recoil handle, but by the flywheel, as to not break the recoil spring or rope.

I got it unstuck!! Thanks for the suggestions and help. Soaked it in old fuel, pb and penetrating oil. It was still stuck after 24 hours but then I took the torch to it and boom it got unstuck and is rotating smooth as silk. So satisfying!! Going to completely dissameble it and clean everything up now.
 
Hi,
I just picked up a collection of Nitro cars and it seems as though the roto start port is thoroughly blocked by the muffler on one of them
Am I missing something? Is there another way I'd be able to start this engine?
The second one the port is partially blocked by the wheel but I guess it's ok to just push wheel out of the way with the shaft on this one? Thans so much for any help with this. I'm almost a complete novice with Nitro cars.View attachment 147420View attachment 147421
Can you take the 4 screws out of the cover and rotate it so it's up on top vs the side? I can't tell by looking at the photo's you have if it will contact anything else then.
 
Can you take the 4 screws out of the cover and rotate it so it's up on top vs the side? I can't tell by looking at the photo's you have if it will contact anything else then.
thanks very much
 
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