Rival mt10 4s upgrade

[Jess]

Anyone have a suggestion for Front bumper support? When I let my kiddos drive, we break that thing constantly.

 

[aaronass]

Wow. No one responded to help. I’m sorry for that. But on cults 3d someone made the mount and they will print it for u but it’s the same price as buying part number asc25801 which is better cause u get a lot more for the money. My opinion

 

[RustyUs]

Anyone have a suggestion for Front bumper support? When I let my kiddos drive, we break that thing constantly.

I've used an old tire's closed cell insert on a RC that had that same ovalized (shock absorbing) area of the bumper. It stiffens up that area, but still allows the bumper to flex.

 

[phm14]

My MT10 has been fun, bone stock, for six months now. Nothing has broken, or been replaced, running good 2s batteries. I find I have far fewer problems, and good performance, staying under OEM power ratings (one step under speced max cell count), on most RCs. Mod away, if you like, just understand that the trade off is usually durability. For me, excessive power, size and weight result in more wrenching/$, less driving. If I do run 4s or 6s, I start with a car speced to handle that power (and they still have failures).

 

[Lumikko]

I reinforced mine with a brace that I secured by wrapping it with glue-soaked polyester thread. I also have rubber grommets in between the bumper and upper mount but that’s more to direct the front lights downward and keep the body off the bumper. The foam sleeves are to prevent body rattling.

 

[Jess]

Anyone have a suggestion for Front bumper support? When I let my kiddos drive, we break that thing constantly.

Discovered this and have put simular versions of other cars. Amazing impact absorption, low weight, dirt cheap. Reinforced PVC tubing or rubber tubing from hardware store. Other picture is Arrma senton rear bumper mount I built out of it just to show the versatility. Have speed a tree head on at 25mph, and took it like a champ!

Anyone have a suggestion for Front bumper support? When I let my kiddos drive, we break that thing constantly.

 

[ahr43]

Hey Kevin. Thanks for the like today on an earlier post in this thread. Been a while since reviewing this thread and brought me back for a re-read.

Reading Jess' excellent Ultimate MT10 Guide poked me into finally changing out those Trenchers. Too much tire for what I do now. Doubling down on Jess' comment on their weight - I have the belted version and with aluminum 12mm inserts. They weigh in at a hefty 9.3oz (265g) EACH. That works out to over 2lbs of tire/wheel assembly hanging out in the wind off the chassis arms. Asking a lot of a suspension, axle and 12mm hexes. Intent was to use them for 3S speed runs as the belted's are 70mph rated no-balloners.

Put on a set of P-L Gladiators as an interim. Much lighter at 5.3oz (152g) each - even with the 12mm AL hexes. Could almost hear the MT10 heaving a sigh of relief. . . Good grass tire too.

While doing the swap did a check and found out a 14mm STRC AL hex fits the MT10 and mounts the P-L Raid 14mm hub a.o.k. Ordered a full set of blue anodize (of course-it's an AE) for later refit.

To phm14's comments on his success with his bone stock MT10. +1. Have a stock one myself and have had no problems with it whatsoever. This one's my 'mod' built from a slider.

 

[WickedFog]

Hey Kevin. Thanks for the like today on an earlier post in this thread. Been a while since reviewing this thread and brought me back for a re-read.

Reading Jess' excellent Ultimate MT10 Guide poked me into finally changing out those Trenchers. Too much tire for what I do now. Doubling down on Jess' comment on their weight - I have the belted version and with aluminum 12mm inserts. They weigh in at a hefty 9.3oz (265g) EACH. That works out to over 2lbs of tire/wheel assembly hanging out in the wind off the chassis arms. Asking a lot of a suspension, axle and 12mm hexes. Intent was to use them for 3S speed runs as the belted's are 70mph rated no-balloners.

Put on a set of P-L Gladiators as an interim. Much lighter at 5.3oz (152g) each - even with the 12mm AL hexes. Could almost hear the MT10 heaving a sigh of relief. . . Good grass tire too.

While doing the swap did a check and found out a 14mm STRC AL hex fits the MT10 and mounts the P-L Raid 14mm hub a.o.k. Ordered a full set of blue anodize (of course-it's an AE) for later refit.

To phm14's comments on his success with his bone stock MT10. +1. Have a stock one myself and have had no problems with it whatsoever. This one's my 'mod' built from a slider.

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I so regret not getting the MT10 instead of our Granite. I am so tired of fixing that pos.

 

[ahr43]

I so regret not getting the MT10 instead of our Granite. I am so tired of fixing that pos.

Yeah, I hear you. Waffled back-and-forth b/w the MT10 and Granite before finally settling on the MT10. AE for me was a know quantity. That in the end was the tipping factor. Like any RC, MT10 has its good features and areas for improvement. Overall, though, it's a heck of a good 2S RC platform. 3S, yeah it'll do it but not as well as on 2S.

Keep your eyes open and ear to the ground. Good deal on an MT10 bound to come along. Cheers. 'AC'

 

[Franky2Tone]

Ultimate MT10 Guide

Rival MT10. This was my first Hobby grade RC. Spent a lot of $ just playing around with it, in literally every way and finally have created an absolute, stable, non-overheating, 50mph, wheeling multiple blocks at a time, easy complete back flips off just a curb from low speed, beast.

Awesome post...really helpful. Thx!

Few Questions:
1. What are those springs for the body mounts?
2. Did you end up dremeling the chassis to fit the motor?
3. Any overheating problems with the 4s /1415/ 2400kV motor?
4. What pinion did you try with the 4s setup? Any issues with the spur gear?

I'm looking to upgrade my MT 10 - however, I am somewhat fixated on making 4s work as I have large supply of 2s batteries and it is easy enough to series them...I like the speed & torque of a 3s setup, but am not really interested in buying more batteries (or splitting my 2s packs to make 3s versions).

Hey Kevin. Thanks for the like today on an earlier post in this thread. Been a while since reviewing this thread and brought me back for a re-read.

Reading Jess' excellent Ultimate MT10 Guide poked me into finally changing out those Trenchers. Too much tire for what I do now. Doubling down on Jess' comment on their weight - I have the belted version and with aluminum 12mm inserts. They weigh in at a hefty 9.3oz (265g) EACH. That works out to over 2lbs of tire/wheel assembly hanging out in the wind off the chassis arms. Asking a lot of a suspension, axle and 12mm hexes. Intent was to use them for 3S speed runs as the belted's are 70mph rated no-balloners.

Put on a set of P-L Gladiators as an interim. Much lighter at 5.3oz (152g) each - even with the 12mm AL hexes. Could almost hear the MT10 heaving a sigh of relief. . . Good grass tire too.

While doing the swap did a check and found out a 14mm STRC AL hex fits the MT10 and mounts the P-L Raid 14mm hub a.o.k. Ordered a full set of blue anodize (of course-it's an AE) for later refit.

To phm14's comments on his success with his bone stock MT10. +1. Have a stock one myself and have had no problems with it whatsoever. This one's my 'mod' built from a slider.

What motor, ESC, and pinion are you running? Happy with 2s? I have 3 MT10s (picked them up for a song). Looking to heavily modify mine, and give a kick to my son & wife's trucks with a better ESC & Motor (runing 2s).

 

[Jess]

Awesome post...really helpful. Thx!

Few Questions:
1. What are those springs for the body mounts?
2. Did you end up dremeling the chassis to fit the motor?
3. Any overheating problems with the 4s /1415/ 2400kV motor?
4. What pinion did you try with the 4s setup? Any issues with the spur gear?

I'm looking to upgrade my MT 10 - however, I am somewhat fixated on making 4s work as I have large supply of 2s batteries and it is easy enough to series them...I like the speed & torque of a 3s setup, but am not really interested in buying more batteries (or splitting my 2s packs to make 3s versions).


What motor, ESC, and pinion are you running? Happy with 2s? I have 3 MT10s (picked them up for a song). Looking to heavily modify mine, and give a kick to my son & wife's trucks with a better ESC & Motor (runing 2s).

1. Springs: just head to Menards our local Ace, grab very light weight compression springs they are very cheap. I'd emphasize light weight springs. Can trim to size if needed.
2. A 65mm length motor is about the biggest you can for without dremeling. With all my motor/esc set ups, no dremeling required
3. I did not run 4s. It sounds great and the 2400kv would definitely handle it but 4s batteries will be way too heavy for bashing and you will likely get a lot of breakage on this platform with that weight.
4. I did not run 4s pinion testing aside very briefly.

Hope this helps!

 

[ahr43]

Hey Franky2Tone,

Quoting your question from above post, "What motor, ESC, and pinion are you running? Happy with 2s? I have 3 MT10s (picked them up for a song). Looking to heavily modify mine, and give a kick to my son & wife's trucks with a better ESC & Motor (runing 2s)."

3800Kv sensorless brushless motor (5mm shaft), 120A ESC, 13T pinion (5mm bore). Happy with 2s x 5000mAh 100C 7.4V full length battery.

Seldom use all the power it has. THR (Throttle percent setting on the transmitter) usually 75% unless I'm drag racing it. Then 90% THR.

Recently fit a set of four Pro-Line Gladiator Short Course Truck tires mounted to a set of Pro-Line Raid Short Course wheels with 14mm hex inserts. Not for everyone, but I like it not having to flip a heavy set of MT tires for what my MT10 does. Mostly back yard flat grass and 33ft/66ft street drags.

Two MT10's here. One stock; one mod (specs above). Hope this helps. Cheers. Good luck.

 

[eroo]

Ultimate MT10 Guide

Rival MT10. This was my first Hobby grade RC. Spent a lot of $ just playing around with it, in literally every way and finally have created an absolute, stable, non-overheating, 50mph, wheeling multiple blocks at a time, easy complete back flips off just a curb from low speed, beast.

Quick Notes on Final Product:

Motor: Castle 1415 With 5mm shaft (not using sensor)

Esc: Hobbywing Max 10 SCT

A Arms: RPM

Drive Shafts: Traxxas Hoss Dremeled to fit inner hub bearing and minor dremeling to fit onto diffs (see "Fails" for details)

Hub Extenders: Hot Racing 12mm to 17mm hex conversions

Tires: Traxxas Maxx Stock Tires

Pinion: 19T 32P

Spur: Stock

Diff Fluid Front, Ctr, Rear: 60k/500k/100k

Capabilities: 50mph+ 3S if you can keep it on the ground...

Shocks: 60wt team associated aluminum (cosmetic only, no issues with stock plastic shocks)

"Fails"

Motor: Stock = fun intro to RC, but wimpy. Hobbywing 4000kv motor -overheating nightmare, weak torque (better than stock though), minimal pinion adj options 13T is all I could get on it before overheating in 1, 3S pack w/fan

Esc: Stock = wimpy, non programmable

A Arms: Stock A Arms are trash, first upgrade buy these when you buy the car. Stock will break within a week and rpm is cheap

Drive Shafts: Stock = Nearly constantly throwing them into pieces with any Motor upgrade even on low punch, got tired of stockpiling them to replace one every other drive. Traxxas Hoss ones I Dremeled have never broke. Ever and I HEAVILY abuse this truck.

Hub Extenders: Ditch plastic hexes immediately you will destroy them with Motor upgrades. I have had aluminum and brass, prefer brass with set screw way less slippage. BUY M4 threaded wood inserts when you buy the Hot Racing 12 to 17mm so you have extra allen nuts (you'll lose them and HR doesn't sell replacements).

Tires: Stock Tires, fine for stock setup if you service diffs, if you don't you'll throw the front with wheelies. Roapex rhythm, very grippy but overpriced, balloon horribly at high speeds with even stock motor/esc, don't recommend. Threw front within 2 days as well.

Heresy ALERT: Proline trenchers, SUPER fun drifter (minimal traction with rock-hard rubber) WAY WAY WAY OVERPRICED and TEREIBLE for bashing outweigh almost all 17mm hex next size up Tires (which make the truck faster BTW) worthless with bashing, most weird breaks of other stuff with these lead weights on.

Pinion: with stock or HW 4000kv, good luck adjusting much beyond 13T. Setup I have could have MUCH higher Pinion without overheating but 19T was a sweet spot for me with low end acceleration and torque compared to 21T.

Spur: No Fails very durable just don't land with throttle.

Diff Fluid: Stock IS NOT ADEQUATLEY FILLED, SERVICE. Could get away with 100k in ctr or half 500k:100k, play around.

Capabilities: 4S is um, unstable to say the least. Truck becomes an airplane at half throttle....

Shocks: Aluminum shocks purely cosmetic and I have some piggyback granite shocks coming in the mail

Most Gnarley Break: Current setup, 25ft just off 45 degree ramp, 9 backflips before slamming wheelie bar in dirt and snapping chassis in two.... it was awesome. Center diff shot 12ft away.

Hope it helps save you all money and build a BEAST!

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Awesome info man! Would you to any pinion changes for someone who mainly jump and like to do backflips etc? Maybe it does backflip well for you. I’ve also been thinking of buying this and give it a 4s setup but unfortunately I can almost find no info about people who have done it. Just saw a comment in this thread that 4s batteries would be too heavy and brake the car. I’ve seen granites that do 4s and is durable so wonder why wouldn’t it work well on this one?

 

[Greywolf74]

Gearing is just something you have to play with and tune to get it where you personally want it. The gearing one person likes may not be the same gearing you like. I just go for the biggest pinion I can use without the motor overheating. Unless, I want it to wheelie more, then I might go down in pinion size.

 

[eroo]

Did you make it 4s?

 

[eroo]

Hey Raptor. Welcome to the forum. AE MT10 is a good package. I have two. One stock. One mod.

Mod is using a Hobbywing MAX10 SCT 120A sensorless ESC. It is rated 2S-4S capable. I have run it on 3S but never 4S. I had plans to migrate it to 4S but backed off. Motor is a Spektrum 3300Kv sensorless. It is 2S-3S rated. Another of the reasons for not going 4S with the MT10.

On 3S I ran a 16T pinion and got 54mph out of it. Considering the motor mount configuration on the MT10, seemed like 19T was the largest pinion it was going to accept. Might be able to squeeze in a 20T? Just throwing this out for you to think about.

Hope this answers the mail. Again, welcome to the forum. Cheers. 'AC'

Did your motor and esc swap make a big change when doing backflips? Looks a bit slow stock?

 

[ahr43]

Did your motor and esc swap make a big change when doing backflips? Looks a bit slow stock?

Backflips? Not my MT10. It gets driven in a conservative manner - like I'm inside it. MT10 is stable at the increase in speed motor and esc swap made. Still running 2s as the Standard A battery pack with 3s option as Standard B.

Good luck. Cheers. AC

 

[Greywolf74]

Backflips? Not my MT10. It gets driven in a conservative manner - like I'm inside it. MT10 is stable at the increase in speed motor and esc swap made. Still running 2s as the Standard A battery pack with 3s option as Standard B.

Good luck. Cheers. AC

If I was riding inside of it, it would still be doing back flips!

 

[theRCLLAMA]

I realize I'm bumping an old thread but I just picked up the newish hobbywing quicrun 10BL120A and the 3150kv motor, was considering going up to a 13 or 14t pinion I want it to do 50 on 3S I just don't know if that's even possible with that small of a 3660 thanks

 

[TeknoJ]

Multiple threads with the same question won’t help you get an answer faster, we will see it, and someone will chime in.
Welcome