Restoring Vintage 90s Traxxas Hawk 2

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No worries. To be honest you really should tear apart the trans. And the whole truck. Before you put power to it.

Make sure there is enough grease and proper alignment of the gears in the trans. Clean all the bearings and drive parts.. Or you could end up destroying it with the first battery. Amd pull of throttle..

The trucks probably been sitting around for a while. And could probably need a good cleaning and restoration before playing with it. You can find out alot of what you need with going over it before you power it up..

Any old truck or car I restore or pick up. I always start with breaking it completely apart. And go over the whole truck/car. Make sure everything is lubed and grease properly...
And a tip with the white plastics. To get them white again or close to white. The best way I found is with hydrogen peroxide.
Having a hard time getting these off to open it up…taken the little hex screws out but can’t get to the Phillips on the inside

IMG_6001.jpeg
 
Having a hard time getting these off to open it up…taken the little hex screws out but can’t get to the Phillips on the inside

View attachment 175846
Ok. It gets a little scary here. You have to gently pry the ears (arrows in pic) apart on the driveshaft on the side by transmission to remove that ball shaped swivel to be able to access the screw. The plastic being as old as it is may make it brittle.
Screenshot_20231127_012725.jpg
 
Having a hard time getting these off to open it up…taken the little hex screws out but can’t get to the Phillips on the inside

View attachment 175846
Whats up bud. Like @WickedFog said. It gets a little scary.

A small flat head screwdriver. You see the groove in the plastic. Where the ball joint slides in. You got to be very careful and just pry up o. The edge of plastic arms. And the ball joint should pop out. You could use a little heat to warm up plastic so not so hard to pry up. But not to much to melt it. Just enough to get it more pliable. And gives you a little more play. To get out the ball joints
 
Once I get that thing complete my taken apart, what type of grease/lube do I use and how much?
I personally use Lucas oil grease. Marine style or the red and tacky. Don't need much either. Just enough to lube the gears. Will send pic of grease I use when I get home bud.

Sorry my notifications haven't been working lately. I messaged @WoodiE so hopefully he can help me out amd get them turned back on..
Just make sure you don't loose those friction pegs. For the clutch plates. Those little brown pegs..
 
If I remember correctly, the diff is not sealed. So, anything more than a light coating of grease on the gear diff internals is not needed.
 
If I remember correctly, the diff is not sealed. So, anything more than a light coating of grease on the gear diff internals is not needed.
The diff is sealed. Most diffs are all sealed.
Having a hard time getting these off to open it up…taken the little hex screws out but can’t get to the Phillips on the inside

View attachment 175846
Here's a link to traxxas and all there older RC. If you want to down load the spec for the truck. Down load hawk or hawk2.
https://traxxas.com/support/PDF-Downloads-Legacy-Models
89 or 92. Either one should work and help with the break down and rebuild. And for any part numbers that you need bud
 
Whatever grease you use, make sure it is synthetic and not petroleum based. Petroleum based will melt the plastic. I use Mibile 1 synthetic grease anywhere it may come in contact with plastic.

Mobil 102481 1 Synthetic Grease https://a.co/d/jkq3voL
 
Whatever grease you use, make sure it is synthetic and not petroleum based. Petroleum based will melt the plastic. I use Mibile 1 synthetic grease anywhere it may come in contact with plastic.

Mobil 102481 1 Synthetic Grease https://a.co/d/jkq3voL
Hello sir hope all is well.
 
Ok. It gets a little scary here. You have to gently pry the ears (arrows in pic) apart on the driveshaft on the side by transmission to remove that ball shaped swivel to be able to access the screw. The plastic being as old as it is may make it brittle.
View attachment 175852
Got her open! One of the yokes did crack but I was able to find a new pair. Everything looks clean, doesn’t appear to be any damage to the teeth. Should I take everything out and clean it with soapy water?

IMG_6004.jpeg


IMG_6005.jpeg


IMG_6006.jpeg
 
That looks like a barely used transmission. Very nice.
Looks like there are a couple of different types of bearings in here. Probably a good idea to replace them all? Or just the ball bearings?

IMG_6007.jpeg
 
Looks like there are a couple of different types of bearings in here. Probably a good idea to replace them all? Or just the ball bearings?

View attachment 175879
The one in the center where the outputs go is a bushing, not a bearing. Yeah, replace that for sure. Fast Eddy Bearings might sell a complete set for your car. There is also a seller on ebay by the name of "Winter Evening" that sells good bearing kits. You can message him and he will put custom bearing sets together for you, if he doesn't already have a set for your RC.
 
I personally use Lucas oil grease. Marine style or the red and tacky. Don't need much either. Just enough to lube the gears. Will send pic of grease I use when I get home bud.

Sorry my notifications haven't been working lately. I messaged @WoodiE so hopefully he can help me out amd get them turned back on..

Just make sure you don't loose those friction pegs. For the clutch plates. Those little brown pegs..
Which brown pegs lol?
 
You can still find the yokes in newer white plastic. I bought some for my Nitro stampede!
I personally use Lucas oil grease. Marine style or the red and tacky. Don't need much either. Just enough to lube the gears. Will send pic of grease I use when I get home bud.

Sorry my notifications haven't been working lately. I messaged @WoodiE so hopefully he can help me out amd get them turned back on..

Just make sure you don't loose those friction pegs. For the clutch plates. Those little brown pegs..
https://www.google.com/search?q=ntr...d-att-us-rvc3&sourceid=chrome-mobile&ie=UTF-8

Still have replacements if he does.
 
Oh yea those are in there. I knew they had to be important
Without them your clutch rounds the spur rendering it useless. Too loose of spur is the same. The classic tmaxx, nitro stampede/rustlersport use that style of clutch and spur. New 3.3 Maxx is new style.
 
The one in the center where the outputs go is a bushing, not a bearing. Yeah, replace that for sure. Fast Eddy Bearings might sell a complete set for your car. There is also a seller on ebay by the name of "Winter Evening" that sells good bearing kits. You can message him and he will put custom bearing sets together for you, if he doesn't already have a set for your RC.
Replace the bushings too? Or just clean?
 
Replace the bushings too? Or just clean?
Shelving it to preserve it leave bushings.

For use, bearings will get more mph easier, not roll to a stop off throttle draining more battery, and after so many runs the bushings wear creating slop.

Your battery technology is old. You esc is almost ancient and your motor is In-between. You need all you can get. 🙂
 
Shelving it to preserve it leave bushings.

For use, bearings will get more mph easier, not roll to a stop off throttle draining more battery, and after so many runs the bushings wear creating slop.

Your battery technology is old. You esc is almost ancient and your motor is In-between. You need all you can get. 🙂
Definitely going to give it some light use. So I can replace the bushings with bearings? Sorry if my questions are basic, very new to this.

At the point of no return now! Got everything completely taken apart. Except for the differential. Once I get the new grease I’ll take it apart.

IMG_6017.jpeg
 
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