Replacing Tamiya Connectors with Deans

[grgbulldog]

I've decided to go ahead and buy the Mamba 6800Kv setup for my Rc18t and I also want to put deans connectors on it. I've had enough with the Tamiya. Will some one explain how you get the connectors off the battery and put the deans on? I have no idea how you would do this.


-Braden

 

[Rolex]

On your Tamiya, cut ONLY the red one, close to the plug. Strip the end, slide on the shrink tube, solder it to the + terminal on the Deans, then seal it with the shrink tube. Now do the same with the black lead. NEVER cut both at once and risk a dangerous short circuit.

 

[grgbulldog]

How exactly do i get the solder inside the plug?

I think i see. With deans you don't go inside the plug like you would with the tamiya. You just solder it then cover it with the shrink tubing?

 

[honda237]

You solder the wires on to the little tabs and then shrink rap it. When soldering the wires on be quick so you don't melt the plastic inside.

 

[grgbulldog]

I gotcha. Thanks guys.

 

[Rolex]

You need to have a good iron, fully heated, in order to melt the solder to the heavy tabs as quickly as possible.

 

[grgbulldog]

Got it covered

 

[CharliesTheMan]

If you have any problems let me know. I was having hell with mine, so I traded the guy at the LHS a battery to solder mine for me, and I watched closely and learned all his secrets, now I'm a solder slingin fool.

 

[grgbulldog]

My grandfather actually teaches radio classes and stuff where you learn how to solder. He taught me a little, so I should be pretty well off, but if I have any trouble I'll hop on here.

 

[abadk9420]

A third hand tool also makes this process alot easier, and using flux and a rosin core solder help as well...

 

[grgbulldog]

My iron came with silver bearing rosin core solder. Sound about right?

 

[marauder]

[ame]http://youtube.com/watch?v=CT18mxfGRjo[/ame]

 

[grgbulldog]

I see now. Thanks for the vid. Does the "flux" make a big difference? I've never even heard of it.

 

[CharliesTheMan]

Oh you definitely need to be using flux, its just as important as the solder. I really like the paste or gel flux, and radio shack sells what should a year or two for $8, and I solder a lot with 15 RC's.

 

[grgbulldog]

I see, So what exactly is its purpose?

 

[CharliesTheMan]

I'm sure someone can give a better definition, but the flux is what causes the solder to bond to the item that you're intending to solder. You put the flux on the item that you will apply solder to, and when the hot solder hits the flux, it soaks it up and bonds to the metal that you're soldering.

 

[honda237]

It clean the area when soldering and makes for a good bond.

 

[grgbulldog]

I see, I'll pick some up.

 

[Rolex]

I suggest going to Home Depot for plumber's flux. WAY cheaper than Radio shack, and first rate stuff.
For a properly soldered joint, the contacts must be physically clean and chemically clean. A quick buff with a scrubby pad or sandpaper makes them physically clean, and the flux makes them chemically clean. If you don't have a good prepared surface, you'll get a ball of solder that just won't flow onto the parts. Flux the connector and the end of the wire, then pre-solder both, separately. When the connector is cool, hold it in a vice grip or forceps and solder them together. Don't move till you see the solder change to a duller silver, then it's solid.

 

[grgbulldog]

I've had the problem of getting a ball of solder that wouldn't bond with anything else. Now i know how to properly do it, and it will be done. With me trying to get out of the expense of nitro and more into 1/18 electric i may start soldering more. Thanks a lot.