replacement for ARO

[avelciario]

Hello Guys,
I had a fullysynthetic oil a very expenssive and very very good oil for assembling 1:1 engine, I usually used this for assembling modified engines(real engine for the 1:1 car) I don't know if I can used this as a ARO? By the way its a ROYAL PURPLE SYNTHETIC OIL( for engine assembly)
Any inputs will mean a lot, Thanks in advance.

 

[2revo1maxx]

Wd-40 works well and will ensure easy startups.

 

[WoodiE]

I know some people do use WD40 but I would not recommend doing so myself. WD40 is a solvent, why people think a solvent would be good to help lubricate components I don't understand. Further, if you have a higher end engine with silicone gaskets - WD40 will eat it away.

Don't use WD40.

ARO is by far not the most expensive thing in RC, in fact it's very cheap. Go to your LHS and pick up a bottle of ARO for just a few bucks. Well worth the investment.

If you wanted you can also use Marvel Mystery Oil as an ARO, in fact it's been said the that Hobbico ARO is just MMO repackaged.

 

[Greywolf74]

Traxxas (or maybe HPI? can't remember) I think started the whole WD40 thing by printing it in one of their manuals. I would say its better than nothing since it is designed to displace moisture which can obviously rust your parts but its not a lubricant so I prefer to use ARO myself as it will both protect and lube the engine. My LHS sells it for about 4 bucks a bottle which lasts a good while and I drowned my engines in it.

 

[avelciario]

Thanks to all of you guys.

 

[Greywolf74]

Sorry man, but I can't answer your original question as I dont work on 1:1s so I'm not familiar with the stuff

 

[2revo1maxx]

More than anything you want a product that will displace water. Displacing/preventing moisture is the ONLY reason you need aro in the first place.

 

[sv250]

Most synthetic oils have detergents in them. I would stay away from them. MMO as mentioned is the best alternative.

 

[ozziii]

Traxxas recommend using WD-40 in there engines, WD-40 does lubricate metal & moving parts, it prevents rust & displaces moisture, it has it written on the tin. I agree it should not be used in some engines as they have a silicon ramp in the crank which may be damaged but the Traxxas engines obviously don't have parts that will be damaged. Why would Traxxas recommend using it if it would damage engine parts or seals.
I just got an OS 21tm engine, & in the booklet that came with it, it says you can make your own ARO by mixing Marvel Mystery oil with Transmission fluid, a 50/50 mix, never heard of that before but it may be worth looking into.

 

[hamz9561]

I would stay away from using WD-40 as an ARO replacement. It is a water displacing formula with minor lubrication properties. I would also stay away from ATF as it has a LOT of detergents and additives as does motor oil. I know this because I do contracting work for a major lab that tests these additives. Just bite the bullet and use ARO.

Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk

 

[moe7404]

for me WD-40 is to thin for me , for most things. my idea for engine assembly. use permatex ultra slick engine assembly lube #81950. get it at advance auto. or red line, engine oil break-in additive. just use a dab on each moving part. it will smoke a little on start up, dont worry. do not put ether one in the fuel.

 

[SchrodeMode]

Here's a great ARO for the winter time, it keeps the engine warm for you.

 

[MudSlinger33]

^! Let us now how that works out for you schrode! WD40 also contains quite a bit of alcohol, which is what eats away at rubber seals.

 

[2revo1maxx]

Traxxas (or maybe HPI? can't remember) I think started the whole WD40 thing by printing it in one of their manuals. I would say its better than nothing since it is designed to displace moisture which can obviously rust your parts but its not a lubricant so I prefer to use ARO myself as it will both protect and lube the engine. My LHS sells it for about 4 bucks a bottle which lasts a good while and I drowned my engines in it.

It actually is oil, and I'm sticking with it:

The long-term active ingredient is a non-volatile, viscous oil which remains on the surface, providing lubrication and protection from moisture.[4] This is diluted with a volatile hydrocarbon to give a low viscosity fluid which can be sprayed and thus penetrate crevices. The volatile hydrocarbon then evaporates, leaving the oil behind. A propellant (originally a low-molecular weight hydrocarbon, now carbon dioxide) provides gas pressure in the can to force the liquid through the spray nozzle, then evaporates away.

These properties make the product useful in both home and commercial fields; lubricating and loosening joints and hinges, removing dirt and residue, and extricating stuck screws and bolts are common usages. The product also may be useful in displacing moisture, as this is its original purpose and design intent.

---------- Post added at 4:32 AM ---------- Previous post was at 4:31 AM ----------

Wd-40 does not contain alcohol.

 

[Grave]

Here's a great ARO for the winter time, it keeps the engine warm for you.

NOW THAT's FUNNY RIGHT THERE litterly LMAO right now

 

[WoodiE]

@2revo1maxx - you are absolutely correct so long as you are only using WD40 in low end engines. Any of the higher end engines with any silicon then you are doing yourself an dis-service as WD40 will gladly eat it away. All the while not leaving the amount of lubricating oil as a true ARO.

Point is WD40 is a solvent, in fact check their "ingredients", more then 50% is based on a solvent agent and only 15% oil. Will it work? Absolutely, but I wouldn't recommend it... even more so when, after run oil runs $3.00-$5.00 while a can of WD40 is going to cost you what, $5-$10 a can? So not only is ARO going to likely be cheaper but also be 100% safe on all engines and is designed specifically for this reason.

Just as a comparison , Marvel Mystery Oil (which is what Hobbico ARO supposedly is, rebadged) contains more then 70% oil and only 25% solvent.


@SchrodeMode - I'd stay away from the Warming version as this could cause the engine to over heat.

 

[srusinek]

I'm all fo ARO and what I use is marvel mystery oil. I buy a quart from an auto parts store and then purchase a small nitro fuel bottle for dispensing. So you're paying like 5 to 6 bucks for the quart and another 5 bucks on a fuel bottle and you're way ahead than buying the ARO from the hobby shop. Just my 2 cents.

 

[Greywolf74]

I'm all fo ARO and what I use is marvel mystery oil. I buy a quart from an auto parts store and then purchase a small nitro fuel bottle for dispensing. So you're paying like 5 to 6 bucks for the quart and another 5 bucks on a fuel bottle and you're way ahead than buying the ARO from the hobby shop. Just my 2 cents.

That sounds like a good idea

 

[avelciario]

what about this one?

Description

HHS-2000 is a high pressure, resistant adhesive lubricant. It lubricates parts exposed to strong pressure and impacts on vibration. Würth HHS-2000 is silicone free, highly polymeric and penetrates quickly and adheres completely. Würth HHS-2000 is fluid, non-sticking with an excellent creeping capacity which penetrates into inaccessible places.

The solvent in Würth HHS-2000 evaporates as it is sprayed resulting in an immediate strong adherence of the lubricant onto metal. It is ideally suited in places where mineral oil and other lubricants do not achieve long term effectiveness or where parts must be dismantled when applying lubrication paste. It also has long lasting effectiveness in places which cannot be lubricated in short term intervals. Sprays on as a liquid and then dries to a clear semisolid which will not dry out. Würth HHS-2000 is water resistant, will not attract dust and will not damage rubber.

16.9 oz (500ml)

Features
Synthetic lubricant
Adheres strongly to metal
Temperature resistant from -31?F to +392?F
Silicone free
Starts as penetrant, sets into clear grease
Long lasting lubricant
Resistant to water, salt, most acids & alkalines-PH neutral
Will not harm plastics, rubber

 

[lesclaypool]

This is really becoming over-complicated in my books. Why try and re-invent the wheel??

What on earth is wrong with this stuff?? They make it for a reason. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCNVE&P=ML

I go through one bottle every 2 years, and thats running 5 nitro kits, bashing 3-4 times a week most the year. It's not like its an expensive investment, and at about $3.50 for a bottle it doesn't really make sense to me to start trying to mix your own swamp water of chemicals to save money. If anything it'll cost more in headaches, time, and frustration lol.