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RC10B74.2 marketplace find

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Messages
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Location
New Jersey
RC Driving Style
  1. Bashing
  2. Racing
so my plan is to get a b7 for carpet racing this winter however I found this b74.2 in market place and it seems to be a really good deal. the front arms were taken but they are including a set of those, they aren’t sure if anything else is missing either but it’s also $150 off retail price. what do yall think? do I grab this or wait to buy a b7
IMG_4059.webp
 
Pretty good deal imo. Best buggy currently in the associated lineup for 4wd. They also have the CE version now since they discontinued the regular .2 but still current and yea. Been running my .1 for 2 yrs now with no issues. Still keeps up with other cars.
 
Pretty good deal imo. Best buggy currently in the associated lineup for 4wd. They also have the CE version now since they discontinued the regular .2 but still current and yea. Been running my .1 for 2 yrs now with no issues. Still keeps up with other cars.
this one is the CE version too
 
Running fuzz bites on mine and they are super traction. Also seen people use fuzz bite rear and pin swag front and they do ok. When I first got into carpet I was running cactus rears and swagger fronts. Worked well until the fronts worn down to nothing. Hoping to do some more carpet this winter. I'd check in with the racers at your track to see what they run. Also seen I think it's called cut staggers from Schumacher for the fronts too.

On clay, especially indoors and sealed/glued, all racers use slicks and tire sauce. Smoothie 2s silver is what I use.

For electronics, I second hobbywing. I'd also check in with your local track and see what kind of class they do. I run stock/blinky class. Been running a xr10 stock spec G2 and a 13.5 V10 G4 motor and it's been running well. But to be fair at my track, we combine mod and stock classes so some might be running a 13.5 like me while others I seen run like 8.5 motors.

If I were to move up to mod I'd get a 10bl120 G2 SD with a 6.5. If I do, I'd be flying down the straight. Lol
 
@DavidB1126 what battery do you run?
Currently running CNHL racing series 5200 7.6v packs. Been running them for a exact year (got them last year lol) and they are pretty good. If I were to get new batteries sometime soon once these go, it will be the new SMC packs they came out with.

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i’ll have to check those out, are they lcg/shorty packs?
Regular shorty packs. Don't really care to run the LCG packs. Also seen in a test that regular shorty packs hold the voltage for longer so 🤷
LCG just saves some weight, which an average club racer for fun like me, not really necessary.
 
Just checked my batteries after sitting at storage for a week. After a year of owning them. 1 pack is .02 volts off from the other and the IR is balanced at 3.5 milliohms. The other packs is balanced at 3.89 volts. And the IRs were 6.3 and 4.9. due to the slightly higher IR, not the best for "pro" racers. But fine for average club racers. I know Bill (@bill_delong) likes to have his batteries near 1.0 milliohms which is nearly impossible to do unless you got a high dollar icharger setup that can do 40 amps. 🤷. Well I take that back sort of. I seen my old SMCs get to 1.0 IRs, but they are extremely puffy and old lol.
 
cool thanks i’ll prob get a nitro pro servo unless it’s better to have a low profile

i’ll look into those tires for sure as well and pretty sure they run 13.5 at my track
Low profile servos are usually lighter than f/s servos. If you're looking to try and balance the car or get it to weigh right for spec, its something to consider.
You will sooner or later 😜
He's talking about the internal resistance of the battery packs. @Greywolf74 has done extensive testing on lipos. His posts helped me to understand how they work and what needs I needed to meet so I was happy with my purchases.
I recommend you poke around his posts and learn lipos! its good info to understand even if you don't use regularly.

Sounds like you really scored with this car! I hope it turns out well for you! 👍🏻
 
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