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question about break in. (noob)

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Shane if you can't help don't reply ok!

Do what jet said lean out the hsn..try 1/16 of a turn at a time...Run for about a 1/4 tank and lean it some more...In till you hit that sweet spot.

dude i was bumpin it for him!!! i didnt feel like puttin bump
 
dude i was bumpin it for him!!! i didnt feel like puttin bump

Well DUDE! Thanks for clearing that up.I feel better now.

Now its sitting here with a full tank of gas. What should I do with it? drain all the fuel and throw it away or what. I work a 12 hour shift tomorrow so I probably wont be running it tomorrow. Will It be ok till tuesday? or should i drain it?

Your ok Put it up and don't worry so much...Your on the right track now.
 
You'd a poop if you watched me break in my V-spec yesterday! I do the heat cycle but a quick version. I spun it on the box til it sounded like it wanted to turn over. Knew it was too rich and turned in both needles about 6 hours each. Fired up, still rich on both, temped to 200 for about 3 minutes, shut off. Fired it up and ran to 200 for about another 3 minutes just moving at short bursts to 1/2 throttle shut off. Leaned it another hour on both, ran to 200 for about 4 minutes and off. Leaned another hour ran half a tank through it shut it off. Leaned another hour put the body on and hit the track. Granted it's not my first rodeo and I really don't recommend doing it this way unless you know what your doing but I was just giving examples of how rich those factory settings are. BTW, Duratrash probably isn't telling you to do the heat cycle method anyway. Just remember, patience is a must when it comes to a new mill.
 
socom just keep this in mind...the basic idea is to bring the engine up to temp (200 at least) and let it run for a while at a smooth consistant pace....the purpose is to let the sleeve and piston "mate" to each other and create a seal by working the metals together......when you are having the slow start ups and it dies right away it's usually from running too rich (like zandor has been telling you) and it's loading up with oil.....so it bogs the mill down.....the more you run it rich like that you are actually NOT breaking in your mill.....as long as you see smoke puffing from the pipe you are doing pretty good......lean it out and look for smoke....after you've run a few tanks in then you can lean it out a lil more til teh smoke is ALMOST invisible when you go wide open throttle (WOT)......good luck and don't stress on it...this is a hobby not a daily driver.....
 
You'd a poop if you watched me break in my V-spec yesterday! I do the heat cycle but a quick version. I spun it on the box til it sounded like it wanted to turn over. Knew it was too rich and turned in both needles about 6 hours each. Fired up, still rich on both, temped to 200 for about 3 minutes, shut off. Fired it up and ran to 200 for about another 3 minutes just moving at short bursts to 1/2 throttle shut off. Leaned it another hour on both, ran to 200 for about 4 minutes and off. Leaned another hour ran half a tank through it shut it off. Leaned another hour put the body on and hit the track. Granted it's not my first rodeo and I really don't recommend doing it this way unless you know what your doing but I was just giving examples of how rich those factory settings are. BTW, Duratrash probably isn't telling you to do the heat cycle method anyway. Just remember, patience is a must when it comes to a new mill.

Why is everyone so negative about duratrax? do they not make good products?

Sorry for being a nitro newb but what exactly do you mean by "Leaned another hour"? Am I right to assume that you spent an hour slowly leaning the lsn.

and yes "Duratrash" didnt mention anything about the heat cycle. I just read that thread yesterday and figured the folks here had better methods for break in than the dvd that came with the truck.

About how many tanks should I run the truck before leaning it anymore? Would running it rich for another 3 or 4 tanks be better for the breakin? Or should i lean both needles next time I run it?

Basically I want this engine to last as long as possible.

You know maybe I'm taking this break in too seriously but this is my first time so I figured I would do it as safely as possible.

Oh and after I got home I tested the transmitter and servos and they seem perfectly fine. I dont know what happened when the truck just took off on my and hit the curb. I assumed that the batteries were going dead but that doesn't seem to be the case now.

And if I run the tank thats in it tomorrow I shouldnt have any problems just leaving the fuel thats in it till tomorrow right?

Once again I can't tell you guys how much I appreciate all the help I recieved from you guys today:)
 
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[QUOTEAnd if I run the tank thats in it tomorrow I shouldn't have any problems right?

Once again I can't tell you guys how much I appreciate all the help I received from you guys today
][/QUOTE]

Your ok with the tank thats in it....
Two no problem that is why we are here...
jet was just using his day as a sample of what many of us do...
Some do just what the paper says to do some don't..
For your first time you did the right thing.By coming here and asking all the right questions..

if you saw Jet or I doing a break in you for the first time reading the Manuel would probably poop your self..And think we were crazy...For doing just about opposite of what the Manuel says to do.
 
I don't read the manuals anymore. Except to get the factory settings for the carb. If it doesn't idle and rev smoothly, I lean it in 1/4 turns until it does. Even on your first tank of fuel, you should be able to rev it up enough to get the wheels moving. If you can't, it's too rich. When you run that rich, it's actually harder on it than if you had it tuned right. It has a tendency to not warm up enough and actually hydro lock due to all the fuel being in the crank case.
 
Sorry when I say an hour I mean it like this. Look at the needle and think of it as a clock, turning one hour is about 1/12th turn. BTW, it's just a habit of using slang for Duratrax, as for me anyway.
 
Ok so I was running the second tank through and when the fuel level got down to about an 1/8th of a tank the truck just died. I restarted it and it ran for about another minuite and it just died. I then added a little fuel thinking that was the problem. After that it ran for a couple of minuites then died again. So i just packed it up.

After running it i did the spit test on the head and it was taking a couple of seconds for the spit to sizzle away. Thats good right?

I know the engines still running rich cause when I do the pinch test its taking the engine about 4-5 seconds to die. Also before I ran this tank i leaned each needle about 1 hour.

How visible should the blue smoke be? I notice it more when accelorating but when just running at a steady pace It doesn't seem that noticible. It seems like when I was running the first tank 2 nights ago that the smoke was easier to see. Is it easier to notice the smoke at night or am I loosing my mind?

What should I do? What would cause the engine to just die the way I described?

Please help me.

***edit***

ok so I called my local hobby shop and described my problem. He said the glow plug could be bad. I checked it and it wasn't. As for the smoke from the exaust he said it should be clearly visible. So I richened both needles. Actually I returned the hsn back to factory preset and went from there. I ran it for a minuite and still didnt really notice all that much smoke. so then I let the hsn out another 1/4 turn, and then another. I still didnt notice the smoke that much so i just shut it off.

The other day it wouldnt even accelorate with the needles set at the factory settings. Now its even richer and its accelorating just fine.

I want to return the lsn to the factory setting for peace of mind. In the book they say it should be 12 1/2 turns out from fully closed while holding the carb open. How can I ensure that the carb is all the way open?

If anyone has any suggestions I would really appreciate it. I'm off tomorrow so I'm probably going to just take it to the hobby shop and see what they say.

also after richening both needles i noticed that its spitting a little fuel out of the exaust. this is normal for a engine running rich right? If it is then why am I not noticing that much smoke?
 
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I had this problem too. You just need to keep adjusting the hsn. And try replaceing the glo plug.
 
I had this problem too. You just need to keep adjusting the hsn. And try replaceing the glo plug.

I took the glow plug out and checked it. Its lighting up just fine:) Its just that I'm not seeing the smoke that I think i should be seeing. But the pinch test and the fact that after richening the hsn fuel is spitting out of the exaust would suggest that the engine is running rich correct?

When I talked to the guy at my lhs he said during break in you just want to keep the engine running. Well I would have to say that even rich the engine has no problem running. In fact it hauls ass at half throttle.

God I wish one of you guys lived in the north dallas area, I would pay you cash to help me out. I'm just afraid I'm going to damage the engine since I'm still not seeing a noticible amount of smoke.

I've spent over $500 on this thing and accesories I would just hate to ruin the engine before its even broken in.

If anyone reading this is close to carrollton tx (20 miles north of dallas) I would be willing to pay you to help a newb not ruin a $500 truck.
 
On the low end, I've never really set my engines by that method; I've always set the head of the low end needle flush with the housing, and adjusted in from there to make it run. Remember, you may have to adjust the idle stop screw a hair to keep it running. Once it's broken in, you can back that screw off.
 
Relax man...Its going to be ok!
Its spitting fule out your way rich...Your pinch test shows your rich on the LSN...

Now we have to undo what you did..We had you on track...

Now calm down and listen...
Lean your Hsn out a half a turn...
And let me know how it is running.Don't touch your LSN again in till we get you back to were you need to be.......

There are members in your area...I think beason , bigsushi and I think a few others are around there...
But if you listen to me ill get you to were you need to be!

If you don't trust what I have to say ill turn you over to monkey wrench=devil
 
Relax man...Its going to be ok!
Its spitting fule out your way rich...Your pinch test shows your rich on the LSN...

Now we have to undo what you did..We had you on track...

Now calm down and listen...
Lean your Hsn out a half a turn...
And let me know how it is running.Don't touch your LSN again in till we get you back to were you need to be.......

There are members in your area...I think beason , bigsushi and I think a few others are around there...
But if you listen to me ill get you to were you need to be!

If you don't trust what I have to say ill turn you over to monkey wrench=devil


Well if I was on the right track before shouldnt I clearly see a trail of smoke whil running the engine weather at 1/4, and 1/2 throttle? Oh and dont get me wrong I'm sure that you know 1000% more about this than I do, Its just that after talking to the guy at my lhs he said that I should be seeing a decent amount of smoke. To me It looked like almost a clear transperent (sp?) smoke, And honestly i only notice that smoke when accelorating from 1/4 to 1/2 throttle. I'm just under the impression that I should see alot more smoke then what I'm seeing.

Should I return the lsn back to the factory setting? I'm pretty sure its close but probably not exactly like it was.

And like I said Zandor I'm sure that you are a pro at this its just that The smoke that I'm seeing doesn't seem to be consistant with what my lhs employer said I should be seeing.

Once again thanks for all your help.
 
Also, keep in mind this is a new engine. I haven't had an engine yet that ran well until I run a quart or two through it. I've had 12-13 engines... I've had one OS 21 RG run pretty good through break-in, but most of them took a few tanks of patience to get to a point where they ran well.

At 1/4-1/2 throttle on a new engine, your still not getting serious RPM's through it since it's so rich. You won't see a lot of smoke until you get the temps of the engine around 200 and you get some decent RPM's out of it.

It should start acting better for you in another tank or two. You should be able to get RPM's up and the tune closer to accurate.

On my last break-in (axial 28 in my mammoth), I didn't get more than 1/3 of max RPM's out of the engine at WOT until I ran 3 150cc tanks through it. Then it started to warm up better, idle better and RPM's would get higher. After about tank 5 of the heat cycle method, I had it tuned still pretty rich, but I was running from idle to WOT in about a 3-4 second pull of the trigger. Then I started to see some serious smoke.
 
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Just because a glow plug glows on the ignitor doesn't mean that it is glowing hot enough. Follow Zandor's advice. As far as 1/4 and 1/2 throttle, don't worry about it, your engine most likely doesn't have a mid-range needle (most don't anymore, which is a good thing for some people). If you hit it to 3/4 to full throttle kinda quick you should see that smoke trail. If it's taking spit a few seconds to sizzle off then it's not hot enough. It should not evaporate right away but it should sizzle. Best thing you can do for yourself is drop $25 on a temp gun, you will always have a need for it in the hobby should you elect to stick with it. Patience grasshopper, Patience. And try and get ahold of BigSushi
 
Relax man...Its going to be ok!
Its spitting fule out your way rich...Your pinch test shows your rich on the LSN...

Now we have to undo what you did..We had you on track...

Now calm down and listen...
Lean your Hsn out a half a turn...
And let me know how it is running.Don't touch your LSN again in till we get you back to were you need to be.......

There are members in your area...I think beason , bigsushi and I think a few others are around there...
But if you listen to me ill get you to were you need to be!

If you don't trust what I have to say ill turn you over to monkey wrench=devil


well today I got a temp gun for peace of mind. I then lean the hsn 1/2 a turn as you suggested. after running a few minuites I checked the temp of the engine it was 300f. I called my lhs and ask the guy what I should do. he said richen the hsn until it runs without getting over the 255f. So I richen the hsn about 1 hour, Run it for a few minuites and it was still running to hot. like 265-270. so I shut it off and richen another hour. Its still running too hot. Now for some reason I can't get gas to pump past the fuel filter into the carb.

This is really pissing me off.
 
ok you guys are not gonna believe this. So I take the truck up to my lhs. the guy starts it and starts messing with the hsn. He says its way to lean. He tunes it for me, and when he is done he said he let the hsn out 4 turns. whatever he did the truck is running great now. Its hauling ass. Oh and when I do the pinch test now it dies in about 2-3 seconds.

I just ran a tank and I noticed that for the first minuite or 2 it was running kinda rough. Thats normal for a cold engine right?

Thanks for the help though guys
 
Good...If you would have listen to me thats about were you would have been!
About 3 1/2 to 4 out.....Go back and look...
Next time you need to tune just take it to your LHS..And don't waste my time..
You should have waited intill you got some more help befor you decided to start messing with the needles...
Sorry if that sounds harsh...But I spent a better part of my day sunday sitting here helping you..

Only to have you undo every thing we worked on!

Your last post seams to inply that I made you mess up your settings..
You did that your self NOT ME!

So like I said next time Go have your LHS do it for you..
You will get no help from me.
 
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