pull start replacement

[Dragon57]

Hi everyone,

I was wondering if I could replace a pull start with a roto start, I am just having so many problems with the pull start. The pull start came uncoiled and I just can not get it back together. Once again thing happen when you buy vintage nitro RC'S ongoing problems........when does the the fun start?.

Dragon57:\

 

[SchrodeMode]

What engine?

 

[Dragon57]

Engine

The engine is an XTM 24.7.

Dragon57

 

[mrbones]

The pull starter is available from Hobbypeople. Not sure about the roto starter. I've had 2 of those engines. It's either good or it's not. The first one was a pain. It was almost impossible to start even after I got a new pinch and had it modified. I finally yanked it out and replaced it with another one. The second 24.7 would usually start up within 2 or 3 pulls and ran as good as any other engine I had. You should not spend a lot on that engine. A new one is only about $120 BUT if you're going to spend that much on an engine, it should be something other than an XTM. I think the pull starter is about $22.

 

[Th3Art0fRu1n]

In my experience, I've always found it easier to ditch the pull and roto start. On my Hyper 7 I just bought the non-pull start back plate and got a starter box. My pull start kept falling apart, and I've read not-so-good things about roto start systems. I'll never use anything except a starter box, but that's just me.

I also already had a multi-type battery charger because my bro does electric heli's. My starter box uses 2 NiMH batteries at 2400mAh. I only have to charge them every 10-20 sessions so, at least for me, the investment was totally worth it.

 

[ChasCS]

Roto-Start 2

I'm using the Roto-Start 2 that came equipped on my hpi Savage X 4.6.
One thing to be aware of are the back plate screws that hold it on to the motor back plate. My screws must have came loose and when I tried start the engine , must have caused damage to those back plates and I lost all my compression.

Thankfully hpi warranty replaced both back plates and even included a new set of gears for the Roto-Start.
Since having installed both, I haven't had any problem.

When ever you buy as RTR model, all visible screws should be checked for tightness and many that join metal to metal could be thread lock or Locktite.
Blue not red.

Chas

 

[mrbones]

In my experience, I've always found it easier to ditch the pull and roto start. On my Hyper 7 I just bought the non-pull start back plate and got a starter box. My pull start kept falling apart, and I've read not-so-good things about roto start systems. I'll never use anything except a starter box, but that's just me.

I also already had a multi-type battery charger because my bro does electric heli's. My starter box uses 2 NiMH batteries at 2400mAh. I only have to charge them every 10-20 sessions so, at least for me, the investment was totally worth it.

I'm with you on this subject! I will never again buy a nitro that requires a pull or roto start. I use a starter box for all my cars and buggies. The bad part about that is that not very many trucks can be started with a box. That's why I sold my savage. I like the Traxxas ez start system and it works good for me. That's why I kept my Revo and it works good all of the time. As far as a battery for the box, I use a lawn mower battery. It's a pain to carry it around but it has super amp flow and lasts for weeks before having to be recharged.