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PRP Swift

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240 degrees celsius? That's a tad hot. Talk about "glow engines". hehehe

If you meant fahrenheit, 250 is okay. Just use a cold plug so it doesn't burn out too quickly.
 
Yeah you're right wagnerov 240 - 250°F (doh)

...but you knew what I meant, It's probably impossible to get a nitro engine up to 250°C anyway :)

niggle, 630g o/weight, that's a tad lardy in anyones book, the pullstart will be some of it, and replacing steel for titanium would help a lot, but then again you'll end up with a full blown race car, this is a RTR.

xxxzayas dude, how do you get the weight down?


Oh yeah, IFMAR regs for 1/8th buggy quote:
1/8th I.C Off-Road Technical Rules

SECTION TWO - CAR/TECHNICAL

(To be read in conjunction with Section 1: General Rules for IFMAR World Championships)



2.1. GENERAL DIMENSIONS

2.1.a Overall length - 730mm maximum.

2.1.b Overall width - 310mm maximum.

2.1.c Wheelbase - 270mm to 330mm.

2.1.d Overall height - measured from the ground including roll bar at full suspension compression is 250mm maximum (this measurement does not include the receiver aerial).

2.1.e The minimum weight limit shall be 3.2kg/7.04lbs for 4WD cars.
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Race Director: I haven't weighed my car, but I do know it is lighter than my buddies K2. My car has titanium turnbuckles and hingepins. Aluminum screws on non loaded parts, one front brake, of course different motor, not much more than that. Hope this helps.

JZ
 
Originally posted by wagnerov
240 degrees celsius? That's a tad hot. Talk about "glow engines". hehehe

If you meant fahrenheit, 250 is okay. Just use a cold plug so it doesn't burn out too quickly.
Click to expand...


LOL at being a """TAD""" hot. I say 250 is good as long as you allow for cooling off and after run oils.

Just my opinion here.
 
xxxzayas, I put 30wt in the rear and 35 in the front shocks with 1.3mm pistons Kyosho blue springs hardly any rebound, and the shock collars are all the way up. I have my shock positions set the same way your car is pictured that Roger sent me but the ride height is still close to level or a little above level in the rear is this right. I would like maybe to be able to adjust it a little below level depending on track conditions but shock collars are bottomed out, or is this how I should run it? Thanks for your help...
 
Originally posted by nitro4mikey



LOL at being a """TAD""" hot. I say 250 is good as long as you allow for cooling off and after run oils.

Just my opinion here.
Click to expand...
...I guess I don't need the blowtorch to get her warmed up after all :flaming:
 
gscoobydoo2: Where are you on the arm and the tower. The locations that I run are not the standard locations the kit comes with. Also, with this setup, the car will have quite a bit of pack, which is good for high bite, fairly smooth tracks. I have another setup for bumpy tracks, and I use the stock pistons with 55 in the front and 45 or fifty in the rear, with Kyosho blue springs. Let me know on the location that you are in and we can go from there. Also be sure that the is no rebound or air in the shocks. You can test this by removing the shocks from the car, and removing the spring. Compress the shock shaft, and there should be no rebound. Let me know.

Jose
 
JZ ( bawller status ) :bling: :

Just wondering, when you build your shocks, what position is the piston in before tightning down the shock cap ? Is the piston position on top or bottom of the shock ? Thx JZ.
 
Roger, alway on the top, but leave enough room for the bladder, so it doesn't get pushed in. Also, it is quite easy to tell if you have air, you can feel the bubbles.

JZ
 
Oops... okay, since I did not do that, can I just take the caps off, push the piston to the top, then put the caps back on? What does it do if you leave it all of the way at the bottom?
 
Originally posted by WA2FAST
What does it do if you leave it all of the way at the bottom?
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Because these shox have an internal bladder (unlike Associated shox) it shouldn't really matter because there is an air pocket to act as an internal damper.

I MUCH prefer these type of shocks, they always seem more consistent and easy to wrench.
 
Our Swift arrived today and I've been demoted to pit crew before we even unpacked it. No driving for me for a while then?

All the aluminium parts are anodized purple. PURPLE? WTF?
Will post pictures tomorrow if anyone's interested.

The body seems to foul on the exhaust header, despite the circular bulge in the body to accomodate it. I think we need a stinger extension to clear the body as well. Any advice here?
 
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Originally posted by niggle
All the aluminium parts are anodized purple. PURPLE? WTF?
Will post pictures tomorrow if anyone's interested.
Click to expand...

Niggle: I'm VERY interested cause I never seen the swift that is distributed in the U.K. Thanks.
 
Okay, you guys are going to get sick of hearing from me... I'm sorry, but I need to ask another dumb question.

I ran the initial few tanks of gas though, I did 3 idle, then on the 4th, I started leaning it out (both the low and high equaly at the same time) for drivability... being easy on it too, not beating on it. I kept checking the temp of the motor and all. Everything was going great... car started on a half pull... unbelievable if you ask me... no other nitro car in my experience has done this. I was very happy needless to say. As I leaned it out little by little... the idle started to go up and I backed it down a bit and so on. Everything was going great till I couldn't hear a friend asking me a question, so I pinched the fuel line to kill the motor to hear what he was saying. After that... it would NOT start no matter what I did. I know that I should have pulled the glow plug and checked it first, but I know the battery is good in the igniter. My initial instinct was, oh, well it was running SO good a minute ago... what the hell? Okay, tuning... so I started screwing around with the low, then the high, then both, then the idle, and now I don't know where I am (even though I was doing very slight adjustments at a time), cause I did so many of them... now I really think I have hosed the tuning. I got frusterated and sucked the fuel out of the tank, dropped a couple drops of after run oil, put the piston at the bottom and wipped it off for the night.

Can someone please help my ignorant ass here please? Maybe give me the factory tuning on the motor so that I can at least start over with tuning it. I don't know where to start tomorrow (that's if it doesn't rain, or snow, or ice, or be 300 degrees... it is Michigan afterall :nono: ) Thanx for all of your help guys... it was fun there for a little while. Oh yeah... forgot to mention... I ran the 3rd tank through while I ate dinner, ran out, it was almost dry... I got excited, topped it off, picked it up and it CAUGHED :puke: oil ALL over a nice pair of white pants. Doh! Oh well... guess they are done now :nono:
 
WA2FAST: I'll let Roger or Cameron answer the part on the needle settings. One thing I would check is the glow plug. Take it out and make sure you didn't foul it. When you take it out hook up the igniter, and it should glow. If it doesn't the plug got fouled. If the plug is okay, put fuel in the car, and primer the motor. What I mean is cover the pipe with your finger, and pull the pull start a couple of times until you see fuel enter the carb. Don't do it too much because you don't want to flood the motor. When fuel is there try to start. Hope this helps.

JZ
 
.21 SH Needle settings

wa2fast: Highend needle: 3 turns out from bottom. Low end needle: 2 turn out from bottom.
 
Jose, yeah priming it like that is much better than pulling the pipe & blowing (moist) air into the tank.

What about stopping it, I tried both the pinch method, & the finger over the exhaust method, & I prefer the exhaust method because it still leave's the carb primed.

Any thoughts guys?

Hey WA2FAST, when the day arrives I'm sick of offering help (where possible) I'll be pushing up the daisies.
 
regarding the tuning needles...is it just me or are the low needle and idle needle very hard to adjust because of their location. I can't seem to get a good grip on the needles with my screwdriver because they are in a weird angle...blocked by either the pipe or other equipment.

Also, when people say that the idle screw should be set so you can fit a credit card in the space...what does that mean? How do I see "the space" to measure the opening.

Sorry for all the questions...I come from 1/5th scale where the engines are very easy to start and tune.
 

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