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PRP Swift

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Regarding the idle, pull the air filter off the carb, you'll be able to see the venturi, then it'll hit you like a lightning bolt.

Regarding the positioning of the screws - totally agree dude :doh: I rotated my carb a tad to be able to get @ the low end easier. Make sure you use a decent screwdriver though, you don't want to mangle the screwhead.
 
Race Director: You know this is a tough subject because, I hate for people to do it wring, but the best way yo kill a motor is through the flywheel. The pipe is probably the worst way, and pinching the line is second. Here are the reasons. When you kill the motor through the pipe, you are increasing the preasure and flooding the motor, so it can be hard to start, and can foul plugs. The pinch line is good, but you have to remove the body. The flywheel is the best because it stops the motor, and the correct amount of fuel is in the carb. Most important, only stop it in the flywheel if the car is in IDLE. If your car is in idle it is very easy to do with your thumb or shoe. If your corner marshalling and a car goes on run away do the pipe, you don't want a nasty gash on your finger, BELIEVE me. Hope this helps.

403forbidden: A good idle spacing is a bout 1mm to 1.5mm, its fairly easy to eye ball, plus once the engine is running you can adjust it.

JZ
 
I hadn't thought about it like that, I'll try it, but can see where you're coming from on the danger front.
 
Originally posted by 403forbidden
regarding the tuning needles...is it just me or are the low needle and idle needle very hard to adjust because of their location. I can't seem to get a good grip on the needles with my screwdriver because they are in a weird angle...blocked by either the pipe or other equipment.
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Yeah, I encountered this as well, but I found a long skinny flathead screw driver and it's alot easier now. Power Racing Products has the perfect flathead screwdriver for this particular application. The part number is YS1042. It's 8 1/2 inches in lenght from end to end. Or you can goto any autostore to pick one up. Hope this helps.
 
xxxzayas, Thanks for the shock info fixed the problem to much air.. I have 2 questions for you what is the part number or length for the lunsford turnbuckles frt and rear. I know they're the same length, but the threads in the rear are bigger than the front. The other question is will the crowd pleaser for the MBX5 fit on the Swift. Thankyou...:cheerful:
 
gscoobydoo2: Man I wish I could help you on the size, I measured those about 6 months ago, and don't recall, I would post them today, but my stuff is all packed for the nationals. I know they sell individual ones if you could measure them. Sorry I wasn't much help. As far as the body goes, I have been running the Crowd Pleazer for the Kyosho car. Hope this helps.

JZ
 
Race Director:Honestly a little mixed. Reason being is that a couple of weeks I felt really good, but we got some new stuff to test and I will be testing it at the nationals. If they are good we should be in good shape. The other thing is that I heard we are only getting 6 runs. That really benefits the people who have raced there before who have a good baseline setup and only have to worry about learning the track. We have a new car, no experience on the track, setup, and learning the track. Not trying to make excuses, just hope my baseline should be good. I feel good with the car, we will see. I really feel good, and I hope things go well.

JZ

To all: Are any of you guys going to the Nats? If you are I would really enjoy meeting some of you.

JZ
 
Sup guys,
I just bought the prp starter. Is there a way to change the direction the wheel turns without having to set the bugggy up the other way. I hear that switching the + & - around may change the rotation but not sure.
 
Originally posted by Race Director
I just weighed my Swift, no fuel but otherwise ready to go - 3.63Kg

I find it hard to believe the limit is 3Kg (BRCA) but maybe thats without radio gear/batteries

Now that I've got a bit more running experience under my belt, the car flies, I'm very impresses with the way the car is holding together mechanically both moving parts wise and fixture wise
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Just weighed mine. 3.520kg straight out of the box, no fuel but my home-made 1800mAH receiver pack in the battery box (5 x AA NiMH) instead of the stock 4 x AA holder. My RX pack weighs 135g on its own.

Interestingly, the stock wheels and tyres come in at 125g each but I have some new Medial-Pro Diamonds on 16-spoke rims and these weigh only 90g each. That's a total weight saving of 140g and more importantly it's the unsprung weight that is reduced.

What kind of fuel are you poeple using in the Swift with the stock engine? I notice the manual recommends 20% nitro content in the fuel (which means Blue Thunder 20% for me). I'd like to use Model Technics 25% but I'm not sure if the engine will be damaged or it's lifetime reduced if I use this fuel. Can I still use the stock R4 plug with 25%?

Not sure if my car has the the SH engine, it has a blue powder coated cooling head with circular fins and the designation "21 C" on the crankcase casting.
 
Good luck at the Nats Jose! I'm sure you will do just fine... good luck!

Hey, where did you get those little fuel clips to hold the fuel line? I would like to route mine differently since I just bought a fuel filter but couldn't find those anywhere. Have any suggestions? Thanx!
 
fuel

niggle, try tornado 25%, and try a mc-coy-mc-9 glow plug, you will probbly notice that it goes a bit quicker aswell, model technic fuel a bit on the oily side, hope that helps :marshall:
 
Re: fuel

Originally posted by simon
niggle, try tornado 25%, and try a mc-coy-mc-9 glow plug, you will probbly notice that it goes a bit quicker aswell, model technic fuel a bit on the oily side, hope that helps :marshall:
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Thanks for the advice, but I bought a half gallon of Model Technics 25% yesterday. Only saw your post today.

Damned straight it's oily! The engine hydrolocked before the end of the first tank during break-in. I was gutted, I thought something had broken inside the engine when I tried to start it - it would not budge at all.

Unbolted the engine from the chassis and tipped it up, I swear an egg-cup full of brown oil dribbled out of the exhaust manifold!

All the model shops near me stock ModelTechnics. Only real alternative is Blue Thunder 20% from ModelSport at Otley, it's cheaper than ModeTechnics fuel but there's a gallon of petrol each way to Otley to fetch it.

Hopefully all that oil will make the stock engine last a bit longer. If I start competing I'll probably run Pink Power in a new RB engine.

Quite impressed with the stock SH engine so far. Jeezus it's loud!

Here's some pictures of my new Swift with the latest purple anodised chassis components...

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... and heres the excuse for a radio set that the UK importers thought would do this car justice. Ky***o Perfex anyone?

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fuel

niggle, if you are anywhere near snertton market , they have got a good model shop, which is open every day of the week, and plenty of choose in fuel and everything, even get parts for the swift, now you know where i brought mine from.
 
Does anyone know where to get those little clips for the fuel line? Jose... where did you get those bud? That would make the fuel line routing so much nicer and cleaner. Let me know please, or if anyone else knows where to get them, that would be greatly appreciated. Thanx!

Don
 

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