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PRP Swift

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Originally posted by WA2FAST
Is there a difference between High Speed and High Torque?
Click to expand...
High speed is just what it says on the tin - FAST

High torque on the other hand is just another way of saying very powerful, rotating power is called torque thats all

The two aren't related, that's why you need high torque AND high speed for 1/8th buggy

A 1/12th car would typically use a high speed low torque servo (because they're smaller/lighter - servo motor is smaller)

A simple test would be, put your buggy on a grassy surface, and if the steering can go lock to lock whilst the car is stationary, the servo is powerful enough, speed should ideally be near instant as you don't want any lag (0.25 of a second is a long way at 40mph!!)

By my maths that's 14'8"
 
Thanks HP. Your a good man, I don't care what Zayas Says...

Please shoot me an e-mail when you have a chance explaining what you found... I am truly curous.
 
SparkyMaxx, hey what's up with that. JK.
On the servo topic, get anythinng with 120+oz of torque. Hope this helps.

JZ
 
Thanx again guys... still working on it. I have the shocks bleeding right now... damn it's a PITA to get all air out sometimes. One has been cooporative and the other is just a PITA and keeps coming up with tons of air. Oh well. Thanx again guys.

Okay, all 3 diffs have been out now, and let me tell you, none of them needed to be shimmed. They were all within the tollerences of what the site and you guys have been saying. Very little play (1mm at most) and nice free smooth movement. What a suprise! The first one, I did take appart, but like I said, the only movement was "O-Ring Squish"... and the others are at least that tight as well... all 3 of them, both sides. I think I am good. I have done 4 of the 6 VCJ's... I have found an easy way of doing them (Mr. Vice helps out to hold them quite a bit) and am on my way I think. Any other suggestions guys? To get the front, center CVJ done... that one took a bit, but whatever. The rear center was a piece of cake... I just took it out, then loctited the allen that holds it back in when I reinstalled it. Now all thats left is to finish bleeding the damn shocks :sneaky: and to do the rear CVJ's and put it all back together.
 
WA2FAST: Sounds good, it sounds like you are almost done. The cool thing now is that you know how to work on your car at the same time. Enjoy and keep us posted.

JZ
 
Zayas, I was really hoping for a part number of the airtronics servo that is recomended. I figured that as long as one is included in the kit you guys would know something about the ones they offered.


:jester: as for the comment. Just tring to create some harmless animosity in the ranks:LoL:
 
SparkyMaxx: No harm, trust me. As far as the servo goes, I really can't comment. Like I said I se to run for Airtronics about 2 years ago and now I run for JR. Sorry I couldn't help more.

JZ
 
Originally posted by SparkyMaxx
Zayas, I was really hoping for a part number of the airtronics servo that is recomended. I figured that as long as one is included in the kit you guys would know something about the ones they offered.
Click to expand...

Sparkymaxx: Here are afew part numbers for some airtronics high torque and high speed servos:

1) 94357Z
2) 94358Z
3) 94359Z
4) 94360Z
5) 94758Z

You can goto: http://www.airtronics.net/2004_servos.htm
These are the most current servos that airtronics has to offer. The servos mentioned above retails above $100. I don't run airtronics cause I have a KO Propo radio system on all my cars. Brotha Jose is sponsored by JR and I'm sure he can reccommend some awesome radio systems and servos if your interested in the JR line of radio equipment.
 
Last edited:
Originally posted by rc10dude
Are there any stores in So cal that sell the swift for 449 or better?: : :confused:
Click to expand...

I would reccomend going to our website: www.powerracingrc.com and open up the hobbyshop icon. Click California and you'll find a list of authorized dealers. Locate the hobbyshops in southern california and start calling around. I've heard of prices being as low as $389 in the Portland area and as high as $500 in northern california. Hope this helps.
 
SparkyMAX,
If you need any of the 58's or 57's , I'll sell you either one new in the plastic case for 101 bucks even, plus 5 bucks priority shipping to you if you're in so-cal ,,,, 58's are a little more torque, and the 57's are a litlle more speedy..
lates,
-Will-
www.WilzWerx.com
email if interested,,

Originally posted by HP Invent


Sparkymaxx: Here are afew part numbers for some airtronics high torque and high speed servos:

1) 94357Z
2) 94358Z
3) 94359Z
4) 94360Z
5) 94758Z

You can goto: http://www.airtronics.net/2004_servos.htm
These are the most current servos that airtronics has to offer. The servos mentioned above retails above $100. I don't run airtronics cause I have a KO Propo radio system on all my cars. Brotha Jose is sponsored by JR and I'm sure he can reccommend some awesome radio systems and servos if your interested in the JR line of radio equipment.
Click to expand...
 
Just been looking at the racing pics on the happytimehobby web site.

Pat, Jose and Charles all appear to be using blue springs instead of the factory black items.

Are these Kyosho blue springs and which piston hole size and shock oil are you using?

Thanks.
 
Alright, well I have now gone through the diff's for shimming (thanx Roger for shipping those shims out even though I don't need them yet... I REALLY appreciate it and will definitely hold on to them for when I need them down the road), I have changed the oil in the shocks per Roger's advice (I only changed out the oil, not valving or springs, so I have 70 up front and 60 in the rear)... they seem quite a bit better than they did from the factory, still a little springy, but definitely better. I have gone through the CVJ's and have loctited everything there is to loctite. I also went out and picked up a Hitec HS-645MG servo for steering. I think I am all up to par and am ready to go! Thank you again for all of your continued support, you guys have been great with helping me out.

A couple quick questions before I break it in...
1) Suspension: I set the mounting points for the top and bottom of the shocks exactly as Jose's car... the front now seems to sit up a tad higher (CVJ's are not paralell with the ground)... should I set the preload to have all of the CVJ's as close to level as possible?
2) Gear mesh: I noticed that the gear mesh in the front seems a bit rough... I am speaking of the mesh between the gear that the front center CVJ attaches to... to the front diff gear. It is okay, moves freely, but it's kind of noisy and I noticed that when you spin the front tires together, you can feel the gears mesh... kind lf like they may not have a tight enough mesh... is this adjustable? I didn't see any way to adjust them when I had the front diff out.
3) Front Toe: Now that I have a better servo, can I take some of that toe out of it? Any tricks of the trade to setting up the steering on the front end?

Thanx again guys, I am really excited to get this baby on the road (and off especially). I bought some nice Medial-Pro bonded tires and rims for street use so that I can break the car in over in this nice big parking lot that I have near me before taking her off road. I figured it probibly wouldn't hurt to have some other tires in case I want to run it in a place other than a dirt track or nice off road area.
 
niggle: They are Kyosho blue springs. Stock pistons, 55wt in the front, and 50wt in the rear, Losi oil. I also go one in on the arm from stock.

Race Director: none on the front, and 3mm in the rear.

WA2FAST: Set the suspension to arm level, as far as toe-out goes about 1 deg of toe out will do. I do all of mine by eyeball, but to make your like ease, set one tire against a flat wall, adjust your other one. Hope this helps.

JZ
 
Originally posted by xxxzayas
Set the suspension to arm level, as far as toe-out goes about 1 deg of toe out will do. I do all of mine by eyeball, but to make your like ease, set one tire against a flat wall, adjust your other one. Hope this helps.

JZ
Click to expand...

Intresting way to do that. Setting up aginst the wall. Never thought of that before. I have always struggle with that. It seems I get crosseyed on one if not two by the time I get to the track. Good Tip Zayas. I guess that why your a pro and I am a .....:confused:
 
Make sure you're steering trim is centred on the tranny before you go adjusting the trackrods.

xxxzayas, I presume you mean full travel at the front, and 3mm spacers under the piston in the rear, (not using stop screws at all, or remove them)

Also, ride height, now all offroad cars I've had were setup with parallel front drive shafts, then set rear ride height so the chassis is slightly lower than the front (for 2WD cars) and slightly higher than the front (for 4WD cars)...is this the way to set the Swift up?
 
Overal weight is less than Mugen or Kyosho.

Eh? Isn't the Swift something like 3.49kg out of the box?
Surely that's heavier than the MBX5 or K2/K3?
Even the humble Rex-X hit's the scales at 3.3kg.

The BRCA sanctioned minimum weight for 4WD is 3.0kg. Any idea what the EFRA or IFMAR minimum weights are? Do the top-level competitors run their buggies at anything near the minimum weight limit?
 
SparkyMaxx: Glad I could help.

Race Director: You are right on the limiters. As far as the ride height goes, I actually change that a lot, depending on how rough the track, or initial steerin you have, I alway start at arms level, because that way I have a reference point I can go back to. Hope this helps.

JZ
 

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