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PRP Swift

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where can you get parts online? thanks

never mind. i found a place. where can you get the buggy cheap? looking for 390$. they told me that price at rcx.
 
Originally posted by chevelledude33
where can you get parts online? thanks

never mind. i found a place. where can you get the buggy cheap? looking for 390$. they told me that price at rcx.
Click to expand...

You might wanna try some of the dealers in the portland, oregan area. Just goto our website: www.powerracingrc.com and look under the hobbyshops icon and scroll down to Oregan. There should be afew dealers.
 
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Hi Guys!

Just got my Swift at Ace Hobbies. JR gave me a good deal on the RTR for $320. I just have to say one of the reasons why I got the swift is do to the great things I've been reading from this thread. I just broke in the engine and now will tear it down and loctite the set screws and other metal to metal. I will also add the shims on the Diffs. I had a couple of Q's.

* On the shock pistons how many holes on the front and rear and is 1.3 correct opening for it.

* How can i tell if i have the Latest batch of buggies.

To Cameron.

Hey Cameron nice to see you are still around the bay area. I don't know if you remember me (John) I had the Reflex and I would always bug you at Castle and then at Hobby World for advise. I hope to see you at the IBM track.
As for you guys at the IBM track I'm coming back to race with you guys (Gary & Kraig) with my MBX and SWIFT after a long departure from RC. I missed racing with you guys.

-John
 
Xtreme R/C car magazine.

Well, if you haven't seen it, our car is in the June 04 issue of xtreme r/c cars. Check it out :)

The pistons are 2 hole and they are 1.8mm. You can do one of two things: 1) change out the pistons ( GS, kyosho, or mugen MBX4 pistons to 1.3mm. 2) use a thicker oil ( 60 frt/50 rear )if you decide on sticking to the stock pistons.

If your car didn't come with a clear body, then you got a car from the 2nd batch. The 2nd batch of cars came in red/white/blue, red/yellow/white, and black/silver/white color combinations. The first batch came with a black/silver/white with a complimentary clear body for you to paint.

Regardless if your car is a first or second batch, your gonna have to shim the diffs, take one set screw out of each CVJ ( 6 total ), put some blue loc-tite on the threads of the set-screw and crank down hard until the set-screw bottoms out. Loc-tite the metal to metal screws and your all set.
 
I was wondering has anyone tried the Fioroni Turbo Sliding clutch in their Swift. Is it compatible with the stock SH engine and Stock clutch bell? What are you impressions? I figured since my clutch is shot I would look into this clutch....
 
HP, changing the pistons for smaller holes, and using higher viscosity oil may achieve a similar feel on the bench, but different on the track.

Higher viscosity oils have a higher 'pack' i.e. initial resistance to flow. This is evident on landing from a jump, if the pack is too high, it could blow the seals or worse - the shock cap!

Lower viscosity oils flow easier and I would say this is the way to go, i.e. 1.3mm/low viscosity oil

(This is what the pro electric guys have done for years, and no doubt the pro nitro too)
 
Hey Guys, Listen I put the Mugen XR 1.3mm pistons in the front and rear of the car with 40wt in the front and 35wt in the rear with Kyosho blue springs all the way around. The rebound from all 4 shocks were very little when rebuilt. When you drop the car from about 4inches the ride height in the rear is still above level with shock collars all the way up The same was with the the stock pistons and oil. Jose's car isn't that way from the pictures why is that I should have plenty of room to bring the ride height down but don't? The shocks are super smooth with very little rebound any help would be appreciated. The stock rear springs are smaller than the blue Kyosho springs wich allow plenty of adjustment or should I drill rear pistons to 1.5mm...
 
Roger: I measured the stock pistons and they were 1.5mm

xtribe00: I run the Kyosho plastic shoes, or the Mugen black shoes. I also use Mugen 1.0 springs.

gscoobydoo2: When running 1.3mm, I would recommend 30 in the rear instead of 35 also make sure there is no air in the shocks, hence rebound after compression. Also you may want to pay a bit with tower position. Hope this helps.

JZ
Team PRP
 
Alright, well I still haven't broken it in yet, but I have put it all back together, set the failsafe up, and adjusted the tow-in. I noticed that I have to have the trim on the remote way to the left to have the wheels centered, so I am going to make the adjustments on the linkage to compensate for that and even it out a bit. The servo that I got seems to be plenty powerfull enough and is very quick to go from lock to lock. The only thing I need to figure out now is the transmitter. It seems that it is not opening the carb up all of the way when I pull the trigger all of the way, so now I need to sort through the 1 page of (poor) directions that Airtronics gave with it. Other than that, I think I am ready to go pretty much. I still wish that the rear was tighter... it still seems pretty squishy for the weight of the car, but I will keep playing with it. Now I just need to find a local dirt track to run this baby on... wonder if there is one around. Roger, thanx for those shims and pins... they came super fast! They were here yesterday, that's real quick coming from Calli. Thanx again for the little note and instructions. I will keep you guys informed.
 
Originally posted by Race Director
HP, changing the pistons for smaller holes, and using higher viscosity oil may achieve a similar feel on the bench, but different on the track.

Higher viscosity oils have a higher 'pack' i.e. initial resistance to flow. This is evident on landing from a jump, if the pack is too high, it could blow the seals or worse - the shock cap!

Lower viscosity oils flow easier and I would say this is the way to go, i.e. 1.3mm/low viscosity oil

(This is what the pro electric guys have done for years, and no doubt the pro nitro too)
Click to expand...

Looking at setup sheets from pro racers using other buggies, Kysoho blue springs, 1.3mm shock pistons and 40/35 or 35/30 F/R seems to be a very popular (and successful) choice.

Obviously weight distribution on the Swift, shock inclination angle and track conditions will have some bearing, so YMMV.
 
WA2FAST: For the steering servo, just disconnect it from the servo, center the trim on the radion and reconnect, then you can do the minor adjustments. As far as the throttle, you need to find the end point adjustment on the throttle and increase the value unitl it is open all the way. Have fun.

JZ
 
Thanx Jose, I will do so when I get home today if I have time (I should). I may have put the arm on the servo one place off too, but I didn't think so... I'll check it out. Yeah, the end point is what I figured I would need to find... just kind of a PITA to figure out the directions... they pretty much suck because everything is abreviated, so unless you know what they are talking about, the directions mean nothing. I would assume that EPA is End Point Adjustment... well they just say, to adjust EPA, use the + and - to adust the percentage. Ha, oh well... I'll figure it out. Anyway, thanx a bunch... I'll let you all know how it goes.
 
Re: Diff oil?

Originally posted by xracer007
Roger

What is the diff oil set up you're using at the IBM track.
THX :)

-John
Click to expand...

3000 front/ 5000 center/ 1000 rear
 
I just weighed my Swift, no fuel but otherwise ready to go - 3.63Kg

I find it hard to believe the limit is 3Kg (BRCA) but maybe thats without radio gear/batteries

Now that I've got a bit more running experience under my belt, the car flies, I'm very impresses with the way the car is holding together mechanically both moving parts wise and fixture wise

The motor runs somewhere between 240°C - 250°C is this OK or should I fatten the top end out a tad
 
Originally posted by Race Director
I just weighed my Swift, no fuel but otherwise ready to go - 3.63Kg

I find it hard to believe the limit is 3Kg (BRCA) but maybe thats without radio gear/batteries
Click to expand...

From the BRCA website (1/8th rallycross, 2004 Sectional Rules): -

A: Dimensions

[a] Overall length 730mm maximum.

Overall width 310mm maximum.

[c] Wheelbase 270-330mm.

[d] Minimum overall weight: 2WD - 2.5 kilos, 4WD - 3.0 kilos.

[e] Overall height measured from the ground including rollbar at full suspension compression 250mm maximum. (This measurement does not include the receiver aerial.)
Click to expand...


Presumably "overall weight" includes servos and batteries? If you could shave 20% off the static weight that would be equivalent to a 25% increase in torque. Kinda makes you think.

My Swift was despatched on Wednesday. Hopefully it will arrive tomorrow. WOOHOO!! :w00t:
 

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