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PRP Swift

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Technically these diffs *ARE* viscous coupled, albeit in a very crude form.
With light oils the oil shears immediately and the diff continues to behave as an open diff.
With heavier oils the planet gears cannot shear the oil and thus the opposing sun gear is dragged around too.

My question was basically why the oil in the rear diff is so light (1K) . Your explanation of the back end sliding too much with 3K was what just what I was looking for. Thanks for this.

Why doesn't the front end break traction on tight turns with 3K in there?

Thanks also for the reassurance on the quality of the pivot ball housings!
 
Good to see another Brit swift owner dude

I was thinking about the same prob.

Thick oil in the front diff is tending towards a solid axle which means understeer/push, now as I find the swift to suffer enough anyway in this area wouldn't it make the situation worse?

Pics on the site ARE good, but I shimmed the smaller gears too (picky bugger)
 
Good point. Most of The Push is a result of too much caster, and you can't dial it out with the stock arms. New ones have already been made which reduce the caster angle by sweeping the outer pivot point forward and will be sold as an upgrade item. We'll have them in stock next month. I'm not sure about Shumacher, perhaps they came in the latest shipment.

Jose Zayas has designed another steering rack for the car which changes the ackerman angle. This gives the Swift a ton more low-speed tight corner steering. I like steering, but sometimes it throws the new guys off. We should be getting prototype (read: not made with a dremel!) pieces soon to test.

Thanks,

-Cameron
 
what are the factgory settings for the H, L, and Idle needles on the stock engine?

I was breaking in the engine for an hour...then I took a break...then I adjusted the needles w/o keeping track of where I was...damn now the engine won't start no matter what...even using a heatgun to warm the engine doesn't do anything...so I need to know the factory settings of the needles to start over again...thanks
 
PRP Customer Service

I have had nothing but problems with these Diffs. I e-mailed PRP about it and they took care of the problem.

I am very impressed with the customer service I have recieved with PRP. Way to Go guys. :worship:

Can't wait to :buggy1:
 
Originally posted by 403forbidden
what are the factgory settings for the H, L, and Idle needles on the stock engine?

I was breaking in the engine for an hour...then I took a break...then I adjusted the needles w/o keeping track of where I was...damn now the engine won't start no matter what...even using a heatgun to warm the engine doesn't do anything...so I need to know the factory settings of the needles to start over again...thanks
Click to expand...

Go 4 up on top and 3 on the bottom. If the motor won't start, try leaning out the bottom end by 1/4 turn. Check your glow ignitor and glow plug. Hope this helps.
 
I like steering, but sometimes it throws the new guys off.
Click to expand...
I like steering too - a lot, give me loose ANYDAY

New top arms & steering rack whoo hoo

HP Invent, what do you mean by "Go 4 up on top and 3 on the bottom"?

Is that 4 turns out from fully in & 3 turns out from fully in?

Getting the motor initially firing is up to the idle setting surely
 
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Originally posted by Race Director

Is that 4 turns out from fully in & 3 turns out from fully in?
Getting the motor initially firing is up to the idle setting surely
Click to expand...

Thats exactly right. Check your idle set screw setting also. Make sure that there is a slight opening on the carb ( thickness of a credit card should suffice ).
 
going back to the stand up servo *cough* argument, a certain Mr. Kanai would know a thing or two yes, and if you want to win, copy a winning formula

this is a K3
k3-021704-04.jpg
 
Thats a pretty funny quote since K's new car is a mugen copy.
over 80% of the car is changed from the way it is now. the only thing staying the way it is, diffs, and some gears, I guess you will see if you have acces to the show in Japan in a little over a month,,, or if you have friends in the the UK you can go see him testing it out as I type this, or have them sneak some video of the clone., but neither this nor that is of relevance as this is the SWIFT BUGGY OWNERS FORUM,
Jeesh , someone NIX that post.... don't even get me started on those arrogant K car owners, someone needs to stick a ,,, well I'll leave it at that,, this is a swift forum not a manufacturers debate, go spout that somewhere else, these people are trying to help customers in need.
Originally posted by Race Director
going back to the stand up servo *cough* argument, a certain Mr. Kanai would know a thing or two yes, and if you want to win, copy a winning formula

this is a GAY-3
k3-021704-04.jpg
Click to expand...
 
Originally posted by 403forbidden
what are the factgory settings for the H, L, and Idle needles on the stock engine?

I was breaking in the engine for an hour...then I took a break...then I adjusted the needles w/o keeping track of where I was...damn now the engine won't start no matter what...even using a heatgun to warm the engine doesn't do anything...so I need to know the factory settings of the needles to start over again...thanks
Click to expand...

Also,,,, Make sure that ALLLLLLLLLLL fuel is out of the cylinder. You will have a hard hard hard time trying to start your engine if it has excessive fuel in the cylinder. Make sure your glow plug AND Glow IGNITER battery are good/charged.

You prolly found alot of fuel in the exhaust already so, keep track of what you change.

We have a few going from San Fernando Valley area.

Cameron/Roger, You guys have a booth set up ???
 
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Originally posted by nitro4mikey


Also,,,, Make sure that ALLLLLLLLLLL fuel is out of the cylinder. You will have a hard hard hard time trying to start your engine if it has excessive fuel in the cylinder. Make sure your glow plug AND Glow IGNITER battery are good/charged.

You prolly found alot of fuel in the exhaust already so, keep track of what you change.

We have a few going from San Fernando Valley area.

Cameron/Roger, You guys have a booth set up ???
Click to expand...

Mike: Cameron and gang will be at the RCX show at the Anaheim convention center this friday though sunday ( Apr. 23-25th ). Unfortunately, I will not be attending :( Someone has to hold the fort down. Hopefully, someday, we can have a brew together :cheers: and talk about r/c racing. Bring some fundage cause I hear that it's going to be a R/C flea market for new items.
 
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Not a prob bud... We will bring and bring and bring... hahaha.

We all had a great day yesterday at OUR track. Loads of fun.


We WILL have a brew soon so,,,,,,,,,,,, be ready. Glad your team will be there.
 
Hirez, the post was in context, I raised the issue about standing the steering servo up, with reasons why, and had other easons why not returned.

This post was just to prove a point that sometimes, trying to reinvent the wheel isn't the best solution.

Don't jump down my throat fella, Mr. U.K. knows a thing or two about 1/8th buggy design, we could benefit from it that's all.
 
Someone please help me here... I am about to buy a buggy today. My choices are between the Swift, the OFNA 9.5 Violator, the Hyper PBS, and the Hyper PCR. This buggy is going to be for bashing and just screwing around with... maybe one day I'll race it, but for now, it's just for fun.

Bassicaly from what I have been reading, the PBS suspension is a better performer and stronger than pretty much any other out there. I am not looking to drop a lot of money, but if and when I break something, I want to be able to run up to the store and get a part... which I can not do for the Swift.

Everything on the Swift is so incredibly attractive and it really seems to be the best for the money, however the parts thing and from what I have been reading, gear mesh, CVJ pins and everything else seems to be an issue as well. I don't want to have to screw around with it too much and don't want problems out of the box... or potential problems anyway. I don't want to have to tear the diff boxes down to check gear mesh... defeats a RTR kit. I want to gas and go.

As far as the OFNA... +'s are that parts are everywhere and everyone has them, so help is right around the corner where ever you go. The down is that the electronics are junk bassicaly from what I read and you have to spend quite a bit of money to come close to the Swift.

All I want is good bank for my buck... I am not neccessarily going to race it for now, but I also want quality, I like nice things... so I don't want to cheap out too bad, but I want to be able to beat on it without worrying about anything other than the parts that I break... at which point I don't want to have to search forever to find them... I want to run up to the store on my lunch hour and pick it up.

Can you guys point me in the right direction? Like I said, I am goign to make a move today... I am just stuck now as to what to go with. I don't want to spend too much over $500 if I don't have to. Please help guys. Thank you so much!
 
WA2FAST: I can only give you advice on our car, since honestly, it is the only one I have experience with. With that said, like you mentioned the Swift comes with a bunch of goodies plus a good radio and motor. Like you also mentioned we have had some minor issues with the CVJ's and the diffs, but those are minors and inexpensive fixes. If anything it is good to go through the car,so you can familiarize yourself with it. Many of those problems have also been addressed. Also you will find, as you have probably read, that PRP has excellent service and that the customer really come first. I think you will not regret the purchase of a SWIFT. Good luck and let me know if I can help you in any way.

Jose
Team PRP
 
If I had the money I would have got a Kanai instead of my Swift.

Let me elaborate, I was basically on a v.tight buget and needed, sorry, wanted an 1/8th buggy, and the Swift looked to have a ton of pluses for a RTR (is that ready to race?) and Schumacher are the distro over here so have an excellent reputation (I've had a few of their electrics - on & offroad)

The Inferno RTR's on the other hand just fall apart (and I've seen more than one)

Now I have the car, I'm improving it (and as has been said you just can't beat getting to know your car inside & out, you can figure out probs in your mind because you can see them mentally)

I love my Swift, but if I had the resources it would have been a K3 because they have all the hopups on and it's a sorted buggy

have a butchers on ebay and you'll find a wad of 1/8th gas/petrol/nitro buggies, and a decent tranny too (I got a 3PJ for $90)

You might be lucky to find a swift though! (ebay)
 
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xxxzayas, thank you very much for the response. If I were to go out and buy one today bran new out of the box... what would I need to do and/or go over on it before I break it in. I know that I would definitiely loc-tite metal to metal pieces just from experience, but what would I need to do/buy right out of the box... because don't forget, everything is attractive, just not parts availability for now. Does Power Racing have a website? I can not find it for the life of me... how do you get ahold of their customer service if needed? Please help with these questions... still leaning towards this one, trust me.

Thanx again, let me know ASAP if you can. Thank you!
 
WA2FAST: The only thing you need to do is remove one of the set screws for the CVJ, and loctite the other one. You may also want to shim the diff but not necessary on the newer kits, PRP, Yokomo, and Kyosho sell diff shims. Besides that I would put a harder clutch shoe, but the stock will be okay for a while. Let me know if you need anything else.

Race Director: Thanks for posting the site.

JZ
 

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